Re: Seatpost clamp help



N

ntappin

Guest
For my triton I'm using a slightly modified CF clamp, it cost me 30 AUD
on ebay. When I first got it, it sucked. It wouldn't clamp hard enough,
so I widened the gap and now its much better, it was also really easy to
do with just a bit of sand paper. This clamp isn't threaded actualy on
the clamp, there is a steel insert that the hex bolt threads into. The
insert and the hex bolt meet like a T the top part being the insert and
the long bottom part being the hex bolt.

I also use a BBB clamp. This one is wayyy better! I don't even clamp it
down to the point where I feel like I'm cranking it down all the way, I
just go for a bit and then its already mad tight. It is also very
light, thin, and probably cheap (I got a great deal from Danni).

If you can get one with a warranty, that would definitely be cool
though.


--
ntappin

'how to build a strong comfy saddle from junk.'
(http://tinyurl.com/hxcb3)
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I like the Schwann and Semcycle style frames because there is no issue
with rotating seat posts. However, neither of them make a frame that
works with ISIS hubs.

How bad would it be if SqueakyOnion on his KH24 or I on my N29 …

Drill a hole thru the frame and seat post then tightened a (smooth) nut
and bolt thru to hold the seat in place?

Would the frame deform in a way that impeded function?
Would the seat still rotate (a little) because it is not a three piece
cantilever frame?
Would it be better to drill higher, lower, or in the middle of the
frame?

Maybe this is a crazy idea, but you never know unless you ask. Schwinn
frames look look this:
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=60


--
kevinalexandersmith

I don't believe in atheists.
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