Re: Seatpost clamp help

Discussion in '' started by ntappin, Jun 22, 2008.

  1. ntappin

    ntappin Guest

    For my triton I'm using a slightly modified CF clamp, it cost me 30 AUD
    on ebay. When I first got it, it sucked. It wouldn't clamp hard enough,
    so I widened the gap and now its much better, it was also really easy to
    do with just a bit of sand paper. This clamp isn't threaded actualy on
    the clamp, there is a steel insert that the hex bolt threads into. The
    insert and the hex bolt meet like a T the top part being the insert and
    the long bottom part being the hex bolt.

    I also use a BBB clamp. This one is wayyy better! I don't even clamp it
    down to the point where I feel like I'm cranking it down all the way, I
    just go for a bit and then its already mad tight. It is also very
    light, thin, and probably cheap (I got a great deal from Danni).

    If you can get one with a warranty, that would definitely be cool


    'how to build a strong comfy saddle from junk.'
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  2. I like the Schwann and Semcycle style frames because there is no issue
    with rotating seat posts. However, neither of them make a frame that
    works with ISIS hubs.

    How bad would it be if SqueakyOnion on his KH24 or I on my N29 …

    Drill a hole thru the frame and seat post then tightened a (smooth) nut
    and bolt thru to hold the seat in place?

    Would the frame deform in a way that impeded function?
    Would the seat still rotate (a little) because it is not a three piece
    cantilever frame?
    Would it be better to drill higher, lower, or in the middle of the

    Maybe this is a crazy idea, but you never know unless you ask. Schwinn
    frames look look this:


    I don't believe in atheists.
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