Re: Stripped crank arm



J

Jeff Wills

Guest
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
<snip>
>
> So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS "special tool",
> Sawzall the spindle ?.
>
> Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.
>
> Steve B.


I've heard of various methods, from gear pullers to pickle forks
(one of these: http://www.toolking.com/performance/view.asp?id=1233 ).
The lowest-tech solution is to leave the bolt out and ride the bike
(carefully!) until the crank falls off.

I'd probably take a hacksaw to the crank and split it. That'll teach
it to strip!

Jeff
 
On 19 May 2004 21:21:30 -0700, [email protected] (Jeff Wills) wrote:

>"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
><snip>
>>
>> So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS "special tool",
>> Sawzall the spindle ?.
>>
>> Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.
>>
>> Steve B.

>
>I've heard of various methods, from gear pullers to pickle forks
>(one of these: http://www.toolking.com/performance/view.asp?id=1233 ).
>The lowest-tech solution is to leave the bolt out and ride the bike
>(carefully!) until the crank falls off.
>
>I'd probably take a hacksaw to the crank and split it. That'll teach
>it to strip!
>
>Jeff


I was taking the Park Tool course at my LBS and when I was in process
of removing the crank arm on the project bike I experienced the same
problem. The instructor used a pickle fork with quite some force and
extracted the crank arm. Did no damage to the carbon frame or the
spindle.
Your mileage may vary.

Regards

David James
 
On Thu, 20 May 2004 09:00:14 -0500, David James <[email protected]>
may have said:

>I was taking the Park Tool course at my LBS and when I was in process
>of removing the crank arm on the project bike I experienced the same
>problem. The instructor used a pickle fork with quite some force and
>extracted the crank arm. Did no damage to the carbon frame or the
>spindle.
>Your mileage may vary.


I recently sent a mass-market steel frame to recycling because it had
a BB shell with threads that would no longer permit BB installation
due to the use of one of those by someone prior to my having acquired
it. If the BB has a stout lip, and you don't mind the possibility
that the bearings may be hosed by the side force, a fork will often
work. Just don't try it with a BB that has a thin or fragile lip; the
fork may do ugly things in that case.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
On Thu, 20 May 2004 17:01:39 GMT, Werehatrack
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I recently sent a mass-market steel frame to recycling because it had
>a BB shell with threads that would no longer permit BB installation
>due to the use of one of those by someone prior to my having acquired
>it.


There are BBs for frames with stripped threads.
--
Rick Onanian
 
On Thu, 20 May 2004 13:10:32 -0400, Rick Onanian <[email protected]>
may have said:

>On Thu, 20 May 2004 17:01:39 GMT, Werehatrack
><[email protected]> wrote:
>>I recently sent a mass-market steel frame to recycling because it had
>>a BB shell with threads that would no longer permit BB installation
>>due to the use of one of those by someone prior to my having acquired
>>it.

>
>There are BBs for frames with stripped threads.


Not stripped in this case. Mashed and distorted. The shoulder of the
shell is no longer square. It would still would with a threadless BB,
but it was a crappy frame anyway; why bother?

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.