Rear Brake Hanger on '92 GT Karakoram

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Pooh, Jan 22, 2003.

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  1. Pooh

    Pooh Guest

    I was given two GT mountain bike frames, one is aluminum, and the other chromo and is a 1992
    Karakoram. I am moving parts over from a broken Gary Fisher CR-7 bike.

    The brakes are cantilever front and rear Suntour. The rears being the "self Engergizing" model,
    which really don't appear to be self energizing but in name only. The front and rear brakes are on.
    I'm awaiting arrival of the front brake hangers that attach to the 1 1/8" headset.

    The rear frame geometry is different. How should and where should I attach a rear brake hanger. And
    where do I buy the parts from? Attaching to the seat post binder bolt is a long ways away. And
    attaching to the rear stays seems kinda close. I gotta do one or the other. Does anybody have
    experience with this type of GT frame?
     
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  2. Ajames54

    Ajames54 Guest

    On 10 Jan 2003 10:41:23 -0800, [email protected] (Pooh) wrote:

    >I was given two GT mountain bike frames, one is aluminum, and the other chromo and is a 1992
    >Karakoram. I am moving parts over from a broken Gary Fisher CR-7 bike.
    >
    >The brakes are cantilever front and rear Suntour. The rears being the "self Engergizing" model,
    >which really don't appear to be self energizing but in name only.

    They really work if installed correctly... there were / are two potential problems ... some people
    didn't realize there were differences in the fronts and rears (cam shape) and would install them the
    wrong way around. Second problem was that they would flex the stays and use up any additional energy
    doing this. This will be an even bigger problem on the GT frame, if they fit get a brake booster it
    will do wonders.

    >The front and rear brakes are on. I'm awaiting arrival of the front brake hangers that attach to
    >the 1 1/8" headset.
    >
    >The rear frame geometry is different. How should and where should I attach a rear brake hanger. And
    >where do I buy the parts from? Attaching to the seat post binder bolt is a long ways away. And
    >attaching to the rear stays seems kinda close. I gotta do one or the other. Does anybody have
    >experience with this type of GT frame?

    That is why I mention fit for the brakes... my memory may be faulty (it has been a while) but didn't
    the Karakoram still use U-Brakes? If it will take canti's then either of your options are fine,
    though I would opt for the frame mount (on the bridge between the two stays).
     
  3. S. Anderson

    S. Anderson Guest

    If I'm not mistaken ( it was a long time ago.. ), didn't GT's of that era have the stop welded onto
    the top tube in some fashion and then have a long straddle cable that went all the way around the
    seat tube? I could be wrong..they may have also had a tube welded onto the seat tube with the hanger
    on the top tube and the single cable would go around the seat tube and down to the straddle cable.
    Check and see if this is possible.

    Cheers,

    Scott..
    --
    Scott Anderson

    "Pooh" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > I was given two GT mountain bike frames, one is aluminum, and the other chromo and is a 1992
    > Karakoram. I am moving parts over from a broken Gary Fisher CR-7 bike.

    <<snip..>>

    >
    > The rear frame geometry is different. How should and where should I attach a rear brake hanger.
    > And where do I buy the parts from? Attaching to the seat post binder bolt is a long ways away. And
    > attaching to the rear stays seems kinda close. I gotta do one or the other. Does anybody have
    > experience with this type of GT frame?
     
  4. Ed J .

    Ed J . Guest

    On 10 Jan 2003 (Pooh) wrote:

    >The rear frame geometry is different. How should and where should I attach a rear brake hanger. And
    >where do I buy the parts from? Attaching to the seat post binder bolt is a long ways away. And
    >attaching to the rear stays seems kinda close. I gotta do one or the other. Does anybody have
    >experience with this type of GT frame?

    Sometimes it pays to be a packrat. :) I still have the 1991 catalog from when I had a Karakoram.
    (Wish I still had the bike)

    They did use U-brakes (Deore DX) on the rear. The cable routes through the top tube and then
    connects to a straddle cable hanger inside the "triple triangle" part of the frame. Then there is a
    plastic clip that clamps to the seat tube called the "GT Cable crosser" that acts as a cable guide -
    the cables then cross over ( X ) behind the seat tube and attach to either side of the brake. I'm
    afraid that without the plastic clip you couldn't use a U-brake (asuming you could fine one). You
    might be able to get away with using a V-brake setup.

    There's a close-up picture in the catalog that I could probably scan and email to you if you need
    it. I also have GT catalogs for most of the '90's years, if you describe the paint job on the frame
    I can probably pinpoint the exact year for you.

    -Ed
     
  5. Pooh

    Pooh Guest

    Thanks, since the braze-ons for the brakes were high on the rear stay I figured that the orginal
    braking system was either cantilever because V-brakes probably weren't out yet. I didn't consider
    U-brake at all. Geeze. I have these nice Suntour front and rears, and this U-Brake hanger config
    really throughs a loop. I'd rather not move to a V-brake and buy a cheap Technos when you know
    what I have.

    Do you think I can add a rear cable hanger off the seat post? It seem like an extraordinary
    distance, and the hanger and the brake yoke don't appear to be in-line.

    What should I do?

    -Wynn

    Ed J. <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
    > On 10 Jan 2003 (Pooh) wrote:
    >
    > >The rear frame geometry is different. How should and where should I attach a rear brake hanger.
    > >And where do I buy the parts from? Attaching to the seat post binder bolt is a long ways away.
    > >And attaching to the rear stays seems kinda close. I gotta do one or the other. Does anybody have
    > >experience with this type of GT frame?
    >
    > Sometimes it pays to be a packrat. :) I still have the 1991 catalog from when I had a Karakoram.
    > (Wish I still had the bike)
    >
    > They did use U-brakes (Deore DX) on the rear. The cable routes through the top tube and then
    > connects to a straddle cable hanger inside the "triple triangle" part of the frame. Then there is
    > a plastic clip that clamps to the seat tube called the "GT Cable crosser" that acts as a cable
    > guide - the cables then cross over ( X ) behind the seat tube and attach to either side of the
    > brake. I'm afraid that without the plastic clip you couldn't use a U-brake (asuming you could fine
    > one). You might be able to get away with using a V-brake setup.
    >
    > There's a close-up picture in the catalog that I could probably scan and email to you if you need
    > it. I also have GT catalogs for most of the '90's years, if you describe the paint job on the
    > frame I can probably pinpoint the exact year for you.
    >
    > -Ed
     
  6. Ed J .

    Ed J . Guest

    On 13 Jan 2003 (Pooh) wrote:

    > I didn't consider U-brake at all. Geeze. I have these nice Suntour front and rears, and this
    > U-Brake hanger config really throughs a loop. I'd rather not move to a V-brake and buy a cheap
    > Technos when you know what I have.

    What you have might be nice, but I don't think it's going to work on that frame. Some of the GTs of
    that era had U-brakes mounted UNDER the chainstays, near the BB - be glad it's not one of those.

    >Do you think I can add a rear cable hanger off the seat post?

    I don't think so. At least I wouldn't. IIRC, the cable comes out of the top tube on the left side,
    so you'd have to them route it up to the seatube - I think that bend would be too much.

    >What should I do?

    Start looking for a U-brake? Somebody's got to have one in a box in the garage. Any swap meets near
    you? Post here and on mtbr.com?

    Good luck.

    -Ed
     
  7. Kapers

    Kapers Guest

    Hey. Dia-Compe 990 or Dia-tech Hombre (similar quality, nicer hardware) Try em.... Good Luck. Keith.

    *------------------------------------------------*
    * *
    * "The knack lies in learning to throw yourself *
    * -at the ground and miss" *
    * D. Adams. *
    * * *------------------------
    -------------------------*

    "Pooh" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > Thanks, since the braze-ons for the brakes were high on the rear stay I figured that the orginal
    > braking system was either cantilever because V-brakes probably weren't out yet. I didn't consider
    > U-brake at all. Geeze. I have these nice Suntour front and rears, and this U-Brake hanger config
    > really throughs a loop. I'd rather not move to a V-brake and buy a cheap Technos when you know
    > what I have.
    >
    > Do you think I can add a rear cable hanger off the seat post? It seem like an extraordinary
    > distance, and the hanger and the brake yoke don't appear to be in-line.
    >
    > What should I do?
    >
    > -Wynn
    >
    >
    >
    > Ed J. <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:<[email protected]>...
    > > On 10 Jan 2003 (Pooh) wrote:
    > >
    > > >The rear frame geometry is different. How should and where should I attach a rear brake hanger.
    > > >And where do I buy the parts from? Attaching to the seat post binder bolt is a long ways away.
    > > >And attaching to the rear stays seems kinda close. I gotta do one or the other. Does anybody
    > > >have experience with this type of GT frame?
    > >
    > > Sometimes it pays to be a packrat. :) I still have the 1991 catalog from when I had a
    > > Karakoram. (Wish I still had the bike)
    > >
    > > They did use U-brakes (Deore DX) on the rear. The cable routes through the top tube and then
    > > connects to a straddle cable hanger inside the "triple triangle" part of the frame. Then there
    > > is a plastic clip that clamps to the seat tube called the "GT Cable crosser" that acts as a
    > > cable guide - the cables then cross over ( X ) behind the seat tube and attach to either side of
    > > the brake. I'm afraid that without the plastic clip you couldn't use a U-brake (asuming you
    > > could fine one). You might be able to get away with using a V-brake setup.
    > >
    > > There's a close-up picture in the catalog that I could probably scan and email to you if you
    > > need it. I also have GT catalogs for most of the '90's years, if you describe the paint job on
    > > the frame I can probably pinpoint the exact year for you.
    > >
    > > -Ed
     
  8. A Muzi

    A Muzi Guest

    > On 13 Jan 2003 (Pooh) wrote:
    > > I didn't consider U-brake at all. Geeze. I have these nice Suntour front and rears, and this
    > > U-Brake hanger config really throughs a loop. I'd rather not move to a V-brake and buy a cheap
    > > Technos when you know what I have.

    "Ed J." <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > What you have might be nice, but I don't think it's going to work on that frame. Some of the
    > GTs of that era had U-brakes mounted UNDER the chainstays, near the BB - be glad it's not one
    > of those.
    >
    (Pooh)> >Do you think I can add a rear cable hanger off the seat post?
    >
    "Ed J."> I don't think so. At least I wouldn't. IIRC, the cable comes out of
    > the top tube on the left side, so you'd have to them route it up to the seatube - I think that
    > bend would be too much.
    >
    (Pooh)> >What should I do?
    >

    "Ed J."> Start looking for a U-brake? Somebody's got to have one in a box in
    > the garage. Any swap meets near you? Post here and on mtbr.com?

    U-brakes are still current in Flatland bikes. See any Redline dealer. (like us!)

    --
    Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971
     
  9. Pooh

    Pooh Guest

    I ran the numbers from your responses and scanned images (extremely useful). It does not seem very
    economical for me to find the cross cable guide, new u-brake, and straddle cable, plus brake
    levers and shifters. When I price out getting some brifters, third party v-brakes, the cost is
    much lower. Even when I include the cable, housing, work hours etc, it looks like v-brakes are the
    economical solution.

    Anyway, I should have the bike ready to roll in about a week.

    Thanks ya all.

    /Wynn/
     
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