Rear Cassettes What Sizes are best?

Discussion in 'Road Cycling' started by SCOOBA STEVE, Aug 13, 2003.

?

WHAT SIZE CASSETTE DO YOU RACE WITH

  1. 12-21

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. 12-23

    20 vote(s)
    12.7%
  3. 12-25

    61 vote(s)
    38.6%
  4. OTHER - LIST BELOW

    77 vote(s)
    48.7%
  1. jbbobj

    jbbobj New Member

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    Out here in California we have a lot of 6%-13% and I normally ride 53/39 and 12-27 but I am looking at moving to 12-25. what are you in when you are going over 8%?
     


  2. jamesvbusa

    jamesvbusa New Member

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    39/23 I thought I had a 11/21 casette but it turns out it's a 11/23. I'm going to stick it out with the gearing I have and hope my strength/endurance improves.
     
  3. bikeshop

    bikeshop New Member

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    Rolling hills in Kentucky allow you to get away with an 11-23, but a 12-25 works best for most of the training and early season aerobic work. www.the-bike-shop.com/training
     
  4. andrello

    andrello New Member

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    The 10 speed 11-23 will give back the 16. When on 9 speed I often miss that 16; 15 to 17 feels like too much of a jump for me. If you're in shape you won't need the 25, but the 23 is good to have in case of emergency.:)

    Thus, I prefer an 11-12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23 cassette with a 53-39 chain ring.
     
  5. jantar

    jantar New Member

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    Is there a general rule of thumb on what is a useful % change between the cogs on a cassette? What would be too high a jump and what would be too low a jump for riding on relatively flat terrain with the occassional small hill?

    (I've just started biking recently and I'm running a 52/40 chainring with a 14-16-18-21-24-28 cassette.)

    Thanks for any thoughts

    jantar :)
     
  6. andrello

    andrello New Member

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    I've changed my opinion since I started climbing bigger hills. Now I want a 11-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-23-27, but Shimano doesn't make it.

    I don't think there's a rule of thumb for % change, but I think anything that'll make your cadence jump more than 10-15 rpm is too much.
     
  7. frenk

    frenk New Member

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    Please define 'hill'. I suspect your definition is quite different from mine :)

    Are you serious???
     
  8. Fat Hack

    Fat Hack New Member

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    11/21...9 speed
     
  9. gclark8

    gclark8 New Member

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    As I am over 55, I don't give up my seat easily for anyone, train, bus or bike, so its front, 27-42-52, rear 13-23, 9 speed.

    I have nice close ratios on the flat, takes care of the sea breeze, and still able to climb all the little hills on the way home.. :)

    Trekking bike, that's another story...
     
  10. cydewaze

    cydewaze New Member

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    I'm too old (and heavy) for those corn cobs listed in the poll. 12-27 for me, thanks, with a 53-39 up front.
     
  11. larry barr

    larry barr New Member

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    I find my 53/11 is great for screaming down hills. I'm still looking for the right combo to get me up faster. Sometimes gravity and I just don't get along.
     
  12. Matt N

    Matt N New Member

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    I used to have 39/52 (front) and 11/21 (rear) 7 speed many years ago when I raced.

    More recently, I have 39/53 (front) and 11/23 (rear) 10 speed. I'm thinking about getting back into racing and going back to 11/21 on the rear. I can't remember the last time I used my 23 cog and I would love to have an 18 cog instead.

    Cheers
     
  13. JAPANic

    JAPANic New Member

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    I have just got myself a new pair of Mavic Cosmic Carbons and decided to add a Dura-Ace 11-21 cassette on it to make me train a bit harder and hopefully ride a bit faster in the sprints.

    I have been riding 12-23 for the last 2.5 years. on Bontrager Racelites. (and have no complaints)

    What I want to know.. (and I'll find out as soon as I get on the road... no long valves in the shop).

    Will I notice a big change?

    1) With the gears.

    2) With the wheels.

    I'm a good flat rider and not interested in racing mountains. I have a fast kicking final sprint.

    I'm hoping I can sprint strong enough so that the 11 comes into play and I can keep the cadence up.

    Anybody tell me what to expect?

    If I don't get any replies here I may make a new thread....

    :rolleyes:
     
  14. 531Aussie

    531Aussie Well-Known Member

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    yeah, you'll get more replies on a new thread, but......

    I can't help you with the wheels, but I have an 11 tooth cog on 4 of my bikes, and it's quite a big difference from the 12. You probably already know this stuff, but.......... :)

    53/14 = 102.21" gear
    53/13 = 110.07"
    53/12 = 119.25"
    53/11 = 130.09"

    As you can see, the jump from the 12 to the 11 is 18% bigger than the jump from the 13 to the 12, so, it's a BIG gear.

    It comes in very handy in fast group rides or races with strong tail winds if you don't like revving too much, or if you occasionally like a rest from spinning too fast -- and if there's a slight decline with the tail wind, 'forget about it'; you NEED the 11. I highly recommend the 11 for fast group rides and races.

    However, it's probably unlikely that you'll use the 11 in a sprint, unless you like to sprint in lowish revs. For example, 53/11 has a 10.157m roll-out for 1 rev, therefore, at 120rpm, you'd be doing ~73kmh (45.4mph)
     
  15. JAPANic

    JAPANic New Member

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    Thanks, I'm at least hoping to hit 60kph and try and give the 11 a go.
    Last year I was in a sprint finish and I ran out of energy, but I was running out of gears as well. My usual race strategy is to spin at 100rpm and stay as aerobic and relaxed as possible. Keeping my HR under 170bpm. (my max is 192). Big gears for the last km. if I need them and have the power to use them...

    May go and start a new thread about the wheels now....
     
  16. 531Aussie

    531Aussie Well-Known Member

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    have you ridden the 11 yet?
     
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