Rear cluster lockring stripped--help!

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by DoctorCasey, Jul 14, 2006.

  1. DoctorCasey

    DoctorCasey New Member

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    I have FSA RD400 wheels with 10-spd Campy cluster 13-29 on rear. The lockring on the cluster stripped when I was riding the other day. Anyone have any ideas on where I can obtain a replacement? It's a black aluminum ring with FSA on it. I couldn't find one while searching the Internet, but am going to try to get to FSA. Anyone else have this problem with FSA lockrings? Thanks.
     
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  2. John M

    John M New Member

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    Any campy lockring (or other brand of lockring that is made for a campy compatible freehub-Bontrager, Miche, etc....) should work if the hub threads are not damaged. If the hub threads are actually stripped, you should be able to get a new freehub from FSA.

    The lockring has to take alot of torque. I would get a steel one.
     
  3. 531Aussie

    531Aussie Well-Known Member

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    Is the thread on the cassette body ok?
    If so, I'd just go ahead and replace the ring with a steel one.
    I've had a couple come loose over the years, and they need
    a fair bit on torque to stay doen up. I'm actually surprised they come in aluminium :)

    EDIT
    : i swear i didn't copy the first reply :p
     
  4. DoctorCasey

    DoctorCasey New Member

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    Thanks folks--I'll go for steel, I think I can handle the extra weight.
     
  5. DoctorCasey

    DoctorCasey New Member

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    Here's an update for those interested. First, thanks for the quick responses. Second, I'll probably go for a steel lockring but here's a consideration to keep in mind: The freehub body threads are not damaged, but a steel lockring that loosens might, I say might, strip the threads in the freehub, making repair more expensive.

    The problem is due to poor design on the part of FSA with respect to the 10spd Campy hub and/or the lockring itself. On close exam, the length of the freehub is very slightly shorter than the cluster stack, only engaging about 90% of the width of the smallest cog. A deeper set of threads on the lockring would help, but the outward force on the smallest cog likely puts more pressure on the lockring, due to the hub not fully engaging the full width of the smallest cog.

    The force is probably greatest on shifting into high gear, or when starting from a full stop in highest (smallest) rear cog, as I did. (I usually downshift, but had just come down a steep hill and had to stop quickly at an intersection. The lockring failed just as I tried to cross the street with rapidly approaching traffic. It could have been a bad scene for me).

    It was annoying and dangerous to experience, in any event. It was the first time I've had this experience since changing over to freehubs several years ago. The old style screw-on freewheels were never a problem I experienced in this respect in 30 years of riding, but most of these were steel on steel with large thread areas.
     
  6. John M

    John M New Member

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    There are all this way, or the lockring might bottom out when tightened. Use a steel lockring (with a good grease on the threads), get it torqued down right and it won't loosen, shouldn't strip, and it should be maintenance free until you need to change your cassette.

    Many hubs have aluminum or other alloy freehub bodies made of material softer than the lockring and the lockrings don't strip the freehubs. Problems can occur when the harder steel of the cassette cog splines bites into the softer allow freehub body and makes them hard to remove.

    I do agree with you that in the old days of steel, equipment failures were very rare.
     
  7. DoctorCasey

    DoctorCasey New Member

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    To those who replied: Thank you! The problem is resolved. FSA was great about replacing the lockring--at no charge (the wheels were only a little over a year old). The replacement is a better design with more threads. However, in looking at a newer Campy steel lockring, I would have to judge it as superior but it was $30 plus tax locally (the older steel Campy is pretty heavy by comparison). There are other options on the web at about $20, but I would have gone for the newer Campy if FSA had not come through for me.

    So, the message is: If you buy FSA wheels with Campy 10spd freehub, be sure to check the lockring for more than five threads, total. Otherwise you might find yourself in a dicey situation like I did. I would probably extend this advice to other wheelsets as well. This is not a subject that I would have given much attention to in the past, but live and learn--little things mean a lot, as the song goes...Kent.
     
  8. 531Aussie

    531Aussie Well-Known Member

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    30 bucks for a lockring????!!! WOW!!
     
  9. artmichalek

    artmichalek New Member

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    Just out of curiosity (I'm not too familiar with the FSA lock ring), how much did you have to tighten it? I've found that the Campy lock rings grip the face of the small cog so well that I can get them tight enough to not slip just using my fingers.
     
  10. John M

    John M New Member

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    Yes, Campy small parts are outrageously priced in the US-particularly at small shop retail. There are some discounts available online, but for the local shop, any Campagnolo is going to be a small volume item.

    I have seen Campagnolo cablesets as high as $60/set USD and crankbolts for $25/pair. Ridiculous.
     
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