Rear deraileur too close to sprocket...and an apology

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Jim, Apr 28, 2003.

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  1. Jim

    Jim Guest

    First an apology for the wasted bandwidth, in my previous hurry to get my question answered I
    blurted out 3 messages with various corrections, this message is corrected.

    I have just installed and adjusted: Chorus Med cage rear deraileur. Centaur 13-29 rear (10
    spd) cassette

    Chorus 53/39 crankset and front deraileur

    When in biggest cog /small crank my RD cage/top jockey wheel "bobbles" and makes a racket I presume
    its too close to the sprocket.

    One shift down and smooth as silk, shift into the big front also smooth (in all gears)

    I have adjusted the B adjust screw CCW all the way out to no avail. What should I do?

    I am leaning towards the chain being, maybe, one link too long, but I sized it (I think) properly.

    thanks

    jim

    [email protected]

    jim

    [email protected]
     
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  2. Pete Biggs

    Pete Biggs Guest

    jim wrote:
    > I am leaning towards the chain being, maybe, one link too long, but I sized it (I think) properly.

    Check it. See: http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQchainlength.shtml

    If chain is longer than necessary for the big-big, removing a link will work wonders.

    Replacing the b-tension screw for a longer one is another option - although a last-resort-type one.

    ~PB
     
  3. Pete Biggs

    Pete Biggs Guest

    Just out of interest, how can a message be made "no longer available on the server". This would be
    most useful for some of my blunders! :)

    ~PB
     
  4. ex-<< When in biggest cog /small crank my RD cage/top jockey wheel "bobbles" and makes a racket I
    presume its too close to the sprocket. << I have adjusted the B adjust screw CCW all the way out to
    no avail. What should I do?

    Take a link outta the chain. With a double and a mid cage rear der, the distance from the cage to
    the chain when in small/small is pretty big, like 15-20mm, but you will still have enough chain for
    big-big combo-

    Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
     
  5. Bob Taylor

    Bob Taylor Guest

    Using the B tension screw too much causes shifting performance to degrade.

    I don't know about Campy but I found a trick that works very well with Shimano rear derailleurs. The
    9 speed ones come with 11 tooth pulleys. If you replace the top one with a 10 tooth one from a
    Shimano 8 speed RD the bit of extra clearence will often solve the chattering problem when you're
    using the largest rear cog (especially the really large ones like a 34 with a mountain derailleur).
    There might be a way to make this trick work with Campy.

    Bob Taylor

    jim <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<BAD3423A.1AE2%[email protected]>...
    > First an apology for the wasted bandwidth, in my previous hurry to get my question answered I
    > blurted out 3 messages with various corrections, this message is corrected.
    >
    >
    > I have just installed and adjusted: Chorus Med cage rear deraileur. Centaur 13-29 rear (10 spd)
    > cassette
    >
    > Chorus 53/39 crankset and front deraileur
    >
    > When in biggest cog /small crank my RD cage/top jockey wheel "bobbles" and makes a racket I
    > presume its too close to the sprocket.
    >
    > One shift down and smooth as silk, shift into the big front also smooth (in all gears)
    >
    > I have adjusted the B adjust screw CCW all the way out to no avail. What should I do?
    >
    > I am leaning towards the chain being, maybe, one link too long, but I sized it (I think) properly.
    >
    > thanks
    >
    > jim
    >
    > [email protected]
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > jim
    >
    > [email protected]
     
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