Rear wheel problem on 2000 Gary Fisher Aquila MTB

[Graeme D.]

Hello,

I have a general rear wheel question. I have a 2000 Gary Fisher Aquila MTB
and I've been having some problems with the rear wheel (Shimano C201 hub w/
Bontrager Corvair rim, 9 speed rear hub). If I am coasting (not pedaling at
all) the freewheel in the back will intermittently keep going forward, thus
dragging the chain down into the frame, especially if the chain was not
totally parallel to the frame. I decided to get a freewheel remover tool
and took it apart and found what looked like metal shards inside (after all
the bearings fell out since this was my first time...d'oh!! :] ). Only 2 of
the 3 "clickers" were there... or at least I assume there should be 3
"clickers".

Is this something worth fixing or should I just buy a new rear wheel w/
casette, etc.?

Thanks!

Graeme

 

[Graeme D.]

I forgot to mention that I noticed the rear wheel start to "wobble" a few mm
after I started having problems.

I don't want to spend a fortune on the rear wheelset. This bike only has
around 500miles on it, too..

Any suggestions on some good buys for something I can just snap on the bike
and go..??

 

[Peter Cole]

"Graeme D." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> I have a general rear wheel question. I have a 2000 Gary Fisher Aquila MTB
> and I've been having some problems with the rear wheel (Shimano C201 hub w/
> Bontrager Corvair rim, 9 speed rear hub). If I am coasting (not pedaling at
> all) the freewheel in the back will intermittently keep going forward, thus
> dragging the chain down into the frame, especially if the chain was not
> totally parallel to the frame. I decided to get a freewheel remover tool
> and took it apart and found what looked like metal shards inside (after all
> the bearings fell out since this was my first time...d'oh!! :] ). Only 2 of
> the 3 "clickers" were there... or at least I assume there should be 3
> "clickers".
>
> Is this something worth fixing or should I just buy a new rear wheel w/
> casette, etc.?
>

I think there are only 2 pawls. Usually, you can buy a new "freehub body", and
switch it to the old hub -- I assume you know how to do that, since you got
the old one off. You just need to attach it with the hollow 10 mm bolt. If you
can't find a freehub body, you can buy a whole rear hub & use the freehub body
from it. While you're at it, you can also use the new axle, cones and (main
bearing) balls -- somewhat easier than lacing the new hub to the old rim. As
far as I know, nearly all Shimano freehubs and hubs are interchangeable.

 

[daveornee]

I forgot to mention that I noticed the rear wheel start to "wobble" a few mm
after I started having problems.

I don't want to spend a fortune on the rear wheelset. This bike only has
around 500miles on it, too..

Any suggestions on some good buys for something I can just snap on the bike
and go..??

There are a lot of choices.. and each has it's own comprimises.
Why, after only 500 miles, wouldn't you bring your bicycle back to the shop where you bought it and ask for some warranty converage?

Is the rim trashed? you say their is a wobble... or
Are the hub bearings that loose?

Swapping a cassette body may solve your rachet and pawl situation; but what about the rest of the wheel?

Maybe the type of riding and size of the rider has some influence here. You should ask your shop if the wheel is up to the job.
They may suggest a wheel with a stronger hub, stronger rim, better spokes, and a higher quality build finishing job.. The issues are too hard to guess at from sitting here.