Rebuilding 80's wheels with Campag/Mavic tubs

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by ds537, Aug 3, 2012.

  1. ds537

    ds537 New Member

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    I have a vintage road bike which is generally in good condition. It has a great pair of wheels (I think 1980s) with Campagnolo Record hubs and Mavic GP4 rims, but I am getting tired of the hassle of changing tubular tires, and would like to change to clinchers. The spokes are ok but a little rusty, and if I get the wheels rebuilt I may as well get new spokes on it. I changed the original Maillard 700 Compact 7sp cassette for a newer cassette with larger cogs, but the original quick release skewers remain.

    Can anyone recommend how much I should expect to pay to get the wheels rebuilt around the Campag hubs, including the cost of new spokes and clincher rims? If it is very expensive work then I will sell the wheels instead (any idea how much they are worth?) and buy ready made up clinchers, but would like to keep the Campags if possible.

    Or am I better off sticking with tubs and getting used to them? My local bike shop recommended Vittoria Pit Stop to seal up tub punctures on the go...

    Any advice much appreciated!

    Thanks,

    Dan
     
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  2. CAMPYBOB

    CAMPYBOB Well-Known Member

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    If the wheels are in decent shape...assuming the bearings are in adjusment and the rims are fairly true.

    Grease up the hubs using the grease port and a needle nose grease gun attachment...just blow that clean grease in there until it flows out the dust covers.

    Call up the Yellow Jersey and order a pile of these: http://www.yellowjersey.org/tt.html

    [​IMG]

    3 for fiddy dollah. I buy them 6 or 12 at a time. Great thow away training tires for cheap.

    Order some glue while you're at it.

    Changing a flat on the side of the road is much faster with a sew up. Just remember that bombing corners is a no-go until you get home and re-glue.

    With the money you've saved by running classic sew-ups, save up and call Colorado Cyclist for a pair of Campy hub, Mavic Open Pro rim clinchers...preferably 32H/3X/14 Gauge. If there's a better wheel house out there, I haven't yet used it! The build excellent wheels.
     
  3. swampy1970

    swampy1970 Well-Known Member

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    People always say "changing tubs is faster than swapping an inner tube in a clincher" - but I like being able to bomb down a descent AFTER I've repaired a tire and not having to worry about getting Beloki shoulder when the tub rolls off the rim... I'll spend the extra 2 minutes taking a little bit of time figuring out where the puncture was and then checking the tire in the respective area.

    Especially for training, there's no reason not to use clinchers. I'd split the difference between modern and old and get those wheels redone with Velocity A23 or HED C2 rims and enjoy the clinchular like ride of modern 23mm wide clincher rims that have an old school look.

    If the hubs haven't been serviced in a while, I'd take them apart to take a look at the bearings and races. Clean, replace parts as needed and lubricate properly. The old Super Record (with the black slider in the middle of the hub) was great - after the mid 80's and the C-Record, the quality took a bit of a hit IMHO. From what I have read, Campag stop micro polishing the bearing races around this time and as far as I know only Sugino do this on traditional bearings for bike parts on the 75 Superlap bottom bracket. If you take the old wheels apart yourself, use some metal polish to make them shine better than new before you take them in for the new wheels to be built.
     
  4. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    FYI. Most ready-made wheels will have 130mm rear spacing whereas your wheels-and-frame probably have 126mm rear spacing ...

    Most Shimano rear hubs can be respaced to 126mm from 130mm ... the axle will need to be shortened, of course, and the rim will need to be re-dished UNLESS the wheel is built with the hub already spaced for 126mm dropouts.

    Steel frames can be respaced from 126mm to 130mm ... not too difficult to do.

    The bottom line is that you need to figure on $100 +/- per wheel in addition to the hubs ... about $18+ for the spokes for each wheel + the actual rim (some rims are more expensive than others, of course) + rim tape ...

    YOU can re-lace your hubs yourself ... and, true them yourself ... otherwise, figure on $35-to-$50 more per wheel over the cost of the "parts" ...

    • to DIY, the ONLY thing you really need is a spoke calculator (many are available online) to ensure you get the right length spokes for the clincher rims you decide to use ... you will need to know the ERD (Effective Rim Diameter) for the particular rims (my recollection is that Open Pro rims have an ERD of about 605mm ... 'I' round down from the calculated value for the spoke length)
    • a tensiometer is beneficial, but people built wheels without tensiometers for decades ... the PARK TOOL tensiometer is probably the least expensive AND has the advantage of being one of the easier ones to use

    If you lace the wheels yourself, then I think a shop will probably charge you ~$10 per wheel to true them (unless you botched the lacing & they have to relace it, that is).
     
  5. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    BTW. A few years ago I opted to relace a set of my tubular wheels with clincher rims, but I narrowed the spacing to 120mm so that I could use the wheels in a frame whose rear dropout spacing was also narrowed to 120mm ...

    [​IMG]

    I happened to have the rims, so it was just a matter of determining the appropriate spoke length ...

    • the lacing on the rear wheel is symmetrical, BTW, with a Campagnolo Nuovo Record rear hub spaced to 120mm
     
  6. Dr Lodge

    Dr Lodge New Member

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    Cost of getting my "old" wheels built with NOS hubs (126mm spacing) was cost of the rims + £80 or £90 for the pair of wheels including Sapim spokes, depending on which spokes I wanted. Just to give an idea..rims like Mavic Open pro are around £40 each, so that's £160 for the rims, spokes and labour for a wheel pair.
     
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