g.daniels wrote:
>>increasing tension in an effort to make the left sides tighter raises
>>the drive side tension way above spec and can lead to rim reliability
>>problems.
>
>
> i recently arrived and alluded at this trueing space: came up with the
> idea, stillborn inpractice, that arriving at radial and lateral true
> under any personally desirable max tension that is not ideal but
> practical within the sinewave problem, one can tighten and loosen from
> one side-first going in the exact dish direction, the tighten/tighten,
> or tighten/loosen starting withn the opposite side, and repeat as
> necessary thus working tension higher, dishing, and if this is done in
> opposite quarters pawsibley avoiding a gradual decrease in true.
> I'm not sure if that wood be clear to the uninitiated.
>
if building rears, i tighten left side till the thread just disppears,
then half-tension drive side concentrating on roundness. after that,
just tighten left side until true, checking drive side tension is within
spec. drive side for round, left for true until finished.
> i know it may be distasteful to some, but using a thread lock
>
>>is neither unethical or expensive. linseed oil is cheap. a 10cc bottle
>>of loctite 290 is not that expensive either. go to one of those hideous
>>national bike store chains & check out their wheel selections. pretty
>>much all pre-built wheels these days use some form of thread locking.
>
>
> yawl use 290 on de spokes? grate!! say, how clean are your spokes
> before? clean new spokes?
if using new spokes & new brass nipples, they build well enough without
lube on the thread. it's only at crazy high tensions that threads start
to bind without lube. lube in the rim holes is good idea though. no
lube on the thread = no problem using 290 - it wicks.
> clean old lock out before adding new lock?
if used before, yes, but you can get away with leaving the old stuff on.
it binds the threads a little, but not enough to be a real problem
usually.
> does it work?
sure!
> does 290 hold everything in place, that is solve the
> spoke unwinding that goes on rearward-which i azzoooom is the wheel's
> desire for progress toward j.brandt's math certainty that all spokes
> will be at equal tension
spokes do need to be at the most even tension possible for their
respective sides.
> wether yawl care for it or not: gee, that
> wood be swell no expletive deleted. at $12 under touring loads a
> military defense establishment send for sure. wow, but one must stress
> relieve, right?
yes, "stress relief" beds the spokes in. with new components, if you
don't do it, the wheel will be badly out of true inside a mile.
> or wait to see after a few miles, wipe the nipple
> tops/spoke bottomes off and apply-have an opinion on that one? does
> the 290 require an exposed thread? or will it creepflow rimward down
> the shaft then squeze between shaft and nipple to the thread's proper?
290 wicks, so no, no exposed threads required. apply /after/ building.
any problems with disassembly, if encountered, can be solved with a
sub-dollar cigarette lighter.
> asking loctite wood be cool...
loctite's not the answer to everything. it can't prevent local yielding
of the rim or hub holes. [that's what "stress relief" helps mitigate.]
but it does prevent spoke nipples unscrewing, particularly on heavily
dished rears where the left side spokes easily go slack.
