Dear Harvey,
Having just researched rattle can paint jobs, I offer the following
information and sources:
1. The Auto Body industry sells rattle can "equivalents" of standard catalyzed paints for use on small jobs where it isn't worth filling a spray gun and/or tying up the spray booth.
The sources below list primer, color coat and clear topcoat for a fine
quality rattlecan paint job. More discussion below.
2. The Auto industry uses primarily 2-part catalyzed materials, especially
for the two most important layers, the primer and the UV-protecting clear
top coat. One of the problems is finding someone who will sell less than a
gallon. Spray equipment is an issue, though I have been using an inexpensive
airbrush. Links Below.
3.Read! Free e-book on autobody work, including painting. Not terribly
comprehensive, but the price is right. More autobody than painting.
4. The Auto Air Colors line of custom and plain colors works beautifully and
comes in 4-16 ounce bottles, just enough to do a bike for $4.50 and up
depending on color and quantity. be sure to get the catalyst and bonder as
well as any basecoat needed for the exotic colors. They require some kind of spray equipment--in my case I use an inexpensive airbrush. I have used these and
love being able to have access to exotic custom car colors in a small,
affordable and non-toxic format. Clearcoat with any polyurethane. Link below.
Some thoughts:
The "standard" non-rattlecan paints are generally catalyzed and dry fairly quickly. Rattlecan enamels and Polys can take literally weeks to months to dry, especially if you get in a hurry and polyurethane an enamel that has dried to the touch, but still has its residual thinner. If you can smell any thinner at all or get a fingernail into it at all, it is not truly dry.
To get my bikes back on the road in a reasonable amount of time, I built a solar powered "bike baker" made with a cut-down bike shipping box painted black inside and out with a large hole cut in one side covered with clear plastic. In the bright sun, it quickly hits 165 deg. F and can cut drying time substantially. If your paint is not well cured already, it can get very soft and stick to the interior. Covering the contact areas with aluminum foil can help, but if it is really soft, you just have to wait. have heard of people rigging a rack for hanging the bikes in the direct heat blast of a shop space heater. Sounds questionable safetywise.
I have used both Helmsman and Varathane brand Polyurethane spray cans from the hardware store with reasonably good results.
Avoid old or cheap paint. The Varathane ended up very slow to dry and quite brittle, but the can I used was probably 7-10 years old. The brittleness of the undercoat is also a factor. I used a can of bargain basement red of indeterminate age I picked up at a garage sale for the color which dried very brittle. In this case< I was painting a bike I picked up at a garage sale for $5 so it sort of made sense, but still it had some major dings before it was even assembled. The Helmsman looks good but is also a bit on the hard-brittle side. It is too new to know how it will hold up, but it is an amber color that would alter light colors.
Your local car parts store likely sells touch-up paint. Avoid the lacquer-based ones because they are brittle, shattering at the slightest ding. They are also soft and prone to scratching. The gloss is poor and longevity short. The enamel-based paints take much longer to dry. and require more skill to spray well
Sources:
Rattle can Self-etching primer for steel and aluminum-can be covered with
any automotive finish.
http://www.autobodybrands.com/aeropro/lqr_primers/qck_etch.html
I found a different brand at my local Checker Auto parts store. It worked fine on steel.
Rattlecan Polyurethane UV clear with performance of catalyzed.(They say. I
haven't
tried this but it is made by U-Pol, one of the leading auto finish
manufacturers in Europe)
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/levineauto/upclear1uvre.html
You can also get real auto paint in spray cans, custom mixed--just like
having your car repainted.
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/levineauto/autpain.html
Auto Air Colors water based Urethane-compatible custom colors in
small quantities.
http://www.autoaircolors.com/
free e-Book on basic autobody painting:
http://www.autobody101.com/download.php
The Real Thing:
2 part epoxy self-etching primer for aluminum and steel
http://www.autobodybrands.com/primers/vwp.html
Alsa Clear Catalyzed Urethane in 1pt quantity, Also sells inkjet and Laser
printable decal paper. I have used this--excellent gloss, dries fast, sprays
through an airbrush without thinning. Very hard surface--sands and polishes
well, may be a bit brittle if dinged, but surpasses most factory OEM paint
for ruggedness.
http://www.kustomrides.com/clearcoat.htm
House of Kolor--Custom Colors and smaller quantities of
clear. I have not used this, but is an industry "standard" Great gallery of
hotrod pictures.
http://hok.com/
Auto Air Colors water based Urethane-compatible custom colors in
small
quantities.
http://www.autoaircolors.com/
As always, these are my opinions others likely have other experiences.
Hope this is useful.
Brian and Zach
"Har-VEE" <
[email protected]> wrote in message news:
[email protected]...
> Looking for any product advice on bare aluminum. I would GREATLY prefer a
> rattle can paint system over using automotive HVLP.
> Thanks all,
> Harvey
>
>