regina 5 speed freewheel removal (2 prong)



dteah wrote:

> This is a 36 hole high flange hub. The machined holes in the flanges are
> circular rather than the oval shape I see more frequently on older Campy
> hubs(I am not referring to the spoke holes, those are obviously round as
> well), I have some pictures posted if you would like to see what I am
> working with: http://www.bigneck.com/cphub/cphub2.JPG,
> http://www.bigneck.com/cphub/cphub1.JPG (these are big).


Those are Campy "Nuovo Tipo" hubs, a nice mid-range hub; the oval holes
are on "Nuovo(?) Record".

Follow David's advice about unscrewing the cogs. (Well, I think it was
*only* French "ATOM" freewheels where the biggest cog screwed off the back).

When you're ready to pull the FW, make sure you use a remover that has a
retaining band to keep the remover from slipping sideways off the
raised/notched remover ring that Reginas had in those days. Bicycle
Research removers had the retaining ring, IIRC.

Good luck,

Mark
 
dteah wrote:

> This is a 36 hole high flange hub. The machined holes in the flanges are
> circular rather than the oval shape I see more frequently on older Campy
> hubs(I am not referring to the spoke holes, those are obviously round as
> well), I have some pictures posted if you would like to see what I am
> working with: http://www.bigneck.com/cphub/cphub2.JPG,
> http://www.bigneck.com/cphub/cphub1.JPG (these are big).


Those are Campy "Nuovo Tipo" hubs, a nice mid-range hub; the oval holes
are on "Nuovo(?) Record".

Follow David's advice about unscrewing the cogs. (Well, I think it was
*only* French "ATOM" freewheels where the biggest cog screwed off the back).

When you're ready to pull the FW, make sure you use a remover that has a
retaining band to keep the remover from slipping sideways off the
raised/notched remover ring that Reginas had in those days. Bicycle
Research removers had the retaining ring, IIRC.

Good luck,

Mark
 
Mark Janeba wrote:
<snip>
>
> Those are Campy "Nuovo Tipo" hubs, a nice mid-range hub; the oval holes
> are on "Nuovo(?) Record".
>
> Follow David's advice about unscrewing the cogs. (Well, I think it was
> *only* French "ATOM" freewheels where the biggest cog screwed off the back).
>


First three cogs are threaded, largest two are splined. (I think.) Once
the cogs are off, you'll have to snip away the "spoke protector", but
then you'll have good access to all the spoke holes. You could build
the wheel, then come back to remove the freewheel body.


> When you're ready to pull the FW, make sure you use a remover that has a
> retaining band to keep the remover from slipping sideways off the
> raised/notched remover ring that Reginas had in those days. Bicycle
> Research removers had the retaining ring, IIRC.
>


Agreed. The older Regina freewheel tools (without retaining ring) were
the work of Stan.

Jeff
 

> Are you able to find a tool to fit? If not, where are you? Maybe we can
> work something out for a loaner tool. I do have one, which I believe will
> fit.
>
>


Yes, I did manage to find the Bicycle Reasearch tool at Harris. Thanks again
for all the advice, & the offer to loan the tool, I think I have a plan
now.
 
Thanks one last time to everyone who lent advice on this topic, I have the
tool ordered & a plan of action, hopefully this will work out as expected.



"dteah" <+dteah*@yahoo*.&com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi there,
>
> I recently started doing some volunteer work for a group that takes in
> bike donations, and offers a work for bike program to underprivileged
> children. I have a decent tool collection some experience with bike
> wrenching, so I have been handed some of the complicated mechanical
> problems. One involves a Campy Nuovo Tipo or maybe a Gran Sport hub with
> a Regina GS Corse 5 speed freewheel. The freewheel looks like it is meant
> to be removed with a 2 prong tool similar to the Park FR2 freewheel
> remover that is designed to work with Sun Tour freewheels, but the prongs
> on this tool are larger than the slots in the freewheel. A well
> intentioned volunteer removed the hub from the wheel by cutting the
> spokes. I have very little experience with parts that are as old as these.
>
> Any idea where I might find the correct freewheel removal tool? And since
> the hub has been removed from the wheel do I have any chance at all of
> removing the freewheel? I know from past experience with a BMX hub in a
> similar circumstance with a single speed freewheel that typically the only
> option is to destroy the freewheel. If that is the case here how can break
> the Regina freewheel without destroying the hub?
>
 
On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 20:11:36 -0700 Mark Janeba
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Follow David's advice about unscrewing the cogs. (Well, I think it was
>*only* French "ATOM" freewheels where the biggest cog screwed off the back).


Now that you mention it, on the Regina and the Atom freewheels
(threading doesn't matter) the largest 2 cogs both screw off the large
end. There are no splined cogs on these.

I'm afraid this approach is doomed.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney [email protected]
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
Jim Adney wrote:
> On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 20:11:36 -0700 Mark Janeba
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Follow David's advice about unscrewing the cogs. (Well, I think it was
>>*only* French "ATOM" freewheels where the biggest cog screwed off the back).

>
>
> Now that you mention it, on the Regina and the Atom freewheels
> (threading doesn't matter) the largest 2 cogs both screw off the large
> end. There are no splined cogs on these.
>
> I'm afraid this approach is doomed.


Yeah, I found an old diagram that I *think* is for the Regina corsa -
either the top one or two cogs were screwed on, depending on the model.

All is not yet lost. When down to the largest two cogs, there's some
chance of threading spokes through the holes in the cogs. If not that,
then try the z-bend spokes that another poster suggested.

Mark
 
While I am no expert in Regina Freewheels, I was reading Sloans
Complete book of bicycling (my bible) last weekend and it said that on
some older freewheels, occasionally 2 of the cogs will thread on from
the back. If this is the case, then the chain whip idea will NOT
work.

In that case, the vertical screwdrivers in a vise is probably your
only option.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA
 

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