Removing Blue Loctite

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Dave, May 31, 2004.

  1. Dave

    Dave Guest

    Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve blue loctite? I want
    to clean up the threads on a couple Al parts, and don't want to use steel
    wool, or anything really abrasive on the Al parts.

    Would a chain biodegreaser work?

    Many thanks,
    Dave
     
    Tags:


  2. Werehatrack

    Werehatrack Guest

    On Mon, 31 May 2004 14:53:06 -0700, Dave
    <[email protected]> may have said:

    >Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve blue loctite? I want
    >to clean up the threads on a couple Al parts, and don't want to use steel
    >wool, or anything really abrasive on the Al parts.
    >
    >Would a chain biodegreaser work?


    Most types of Loctite are forms of cyanoacrylate glue with a mix of
    fillers and setup time modifiers. In most cases, you can use a
    superglue remover to get it off. (Acetone sometimes works, and is
    often sold as superglue remover.)

    Degreasers are unlikely to have any effect in my experience.

    Gasket removal and paint removal compounds, on the other hand, are
    likely to work.

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
     
  3. pavedroad

    pavedroad Guest

    Acetone will take that right off.

    "Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:D[email protected]
    > Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve blue loctite? I

    want
    > to clean up the threads on a couple Al parts, and don't want to use steel
    > wool, or anything really abrasive on the Al parts.
    >
    > Would a chain biodegreaser work?
    >
    > Many thanks,
    > Dave
    >
     
  4. [email protected] wrote:

    > "Dave" <[email protected]> wrote...
    >> Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve blue loctite? I
    >> want to clean up the threads on a couple Al parts, and don't want to use
    >> steel wool, or anything really abrasive on the Al parts.
    >>
    >> Would a chain biodegreaser work?

    >
    > Acetone will take that right off.


    Hmmm. How, exactly, are you defining "safe?"

    http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/A0446.htm

    --
    Benjamin Lewis

    I regret to say that we of the FBI are powerless to act in cases of
    oral-genital intimacy, unless it has in some way obstructed interstate
    commerce. -- J. Edgar Hoover
     
  5. Weisse Luft

    Weisse Luft Guest

    Benjamin Lewis wrote:
    > [email protected] wrote:
    > > "Dave" <[email protected]> wrote...
    > >> Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve blue loctite? I
    > >> want to clean up the threads on a couple Al parts, and don't want to
    > >> use steel wool, or anything really abrasive on the Al parts.
    > >>
    > >> Would a chain biodegreaser work?

    > >
    > > Acetone will take that right off.

    > Hmmm. How, exactly, are you defining "safe?"
    > http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/A0446.htmhttp://www.jtbaker.com-
    > /msds/englishhtml/A0446.htm
    > --
    > Benjamin Lewis
    > I regret to say that we of the FBI are powerless to act in cases of oral-
    > genital intimacy, unless it has in some way obstructed interstate
    > commerce. -- J. Edgar Hoover





    Safer than methylene chloride AKA dichloromethane. I think the
    original poster was considering the safety of the aluminum parts so
    something like sodium hydroxide solutions would be definitely OUT
    (NaOH dissolves Al).

    Whatever you do, don't heat the parts. Aluminum temper is destroyed by
    the heat necessary to remove thread lockers.



    --
     
  6. Weisse Luft wrote:

    > Benjamin Lewis wrote:
    >>
    >> Hmmm. How, exactly, are you defining "safe?"
    >> http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/A0446.htm

    >
    > Safer than methylene chloride AKA dichloromethane. I think the
    > original poster was considering the safety of the aluminum parts so
    > something like sodium hydroxide solutions would be definitely OUT
    > (NaOH dissolves Al).


    Okay, but in my opinion any characterization of acetone as "safe" should
    come with some sort of disclaimer :) It's nasty stuff.

    --
    Benjamin Lewis

    Hey! I'm only fourteen, sickly 'n' thin
    Tried all of my life just to grow me a chin
    It popped out once, but my dad pushed it in. -- FZ
     
  7. Benjamin Lewis <[email protected]> writes:

    > [email protected] wrote:
    >
    > > "Dave" <[email protected]> wrote...
    > >> Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve blue loctite? I
    > >> want to clean up the threads on a couple Al parts, and don't want to use
    > >> steel wool, or anything really abrasive on the Al parts.
    > >>
    > >> Would a chain biodegreaser work?

    > >
    > > Acetone will take that right off.

    >
    > Hmmm. How, exactly, are you defining "safe?"
    >
    > http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/A0446.htm
    >

    Safe enough to be used as the principal component of a product
    designed to be applied directly to the human body on a
    regular basis, like nail-polish remover?
     
  8. Weisse Luft

    Weisse Luft Guest

    Benjamin Lewis wrote:
    > [B:
    > >Okay, but in my opinion any characterization of acetone as

    > "safe" should come with some sort of disclaimer :) It's nasty stuff.
    > --
    > Benjamin Lewis
    > Hey! I'm only fourteen, sickly 'n' thin Tried all of my life just to
    > grow me a chin It popped out once, but my dad pushed it in. -- FZ




    Acetone is not nasty stuff...the human body can metabolize small
    amounts safely. Unless you take a bath in it, its not a problem.
    Diabetics are another story since ketosis generates ketones, of which
    one is acetone. People without diabeties also generate ketones but to a
    much less extent.



    --
     
  9. pavedroad

    pavedroad Guest

    Here's another dangerous compound you should be aware of:
    http://www.dhmo.org/
    There's an entire campaign to try and ban it. Important stuff!


    "Benjamin Lewis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]
    > [email protected] wrote:
    >
    > > "Dave" <[email protected]> wrote...
    > >> Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve blue loctite? I
    > >> want to clean up the threads on a couple Al parts, and don't want to

    use
    > >> steel wool, or anything really abrasive on the Al parts.
    > >>
    > >> Would a chain biodegreaser work?

    > >
    > > Acetone will take that right off.

    >
    > Hmmm. How, exactly, are you defining "safe?"
    >
    > http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/A0446.htm
    >
    > --
    > Benjamin Lewis
    >
    > I regret to say that we of the FBI are powerless to act in cases of
    > oral-genital intimacy, unless it has in some way obstructed interstate
    > commerce. -- J. Edgar Hoover
     
  10. [email protected] wrote:

    > Here's another dangerous compound you should be aware of:
    > http://www.dhmo.org/
    > There's an entire campaign to try and ban it. Important stuff!


    Dihydrogen monoxide? Well, sure. It's directly responsive for the deaths
    of over 3000 people a year in the US alone!

    http://www.poseidon-tech.com/us/statistics.html

    --
    Benjamin Lewis

    Evelyn the dog, having undergone further modification, pondered the
    significance of short-person behavior in pedal-depressed panchromatic
    resonance and other highly ambient domains... "Arf", she said.
     
  11. g.daniels

    g.daniels Guest

    nothing removes anything. this is a basic law!
    no seriuosly...
    step one - a wire brush at speed rotating slowly does the job. scca
    regional cleanyness

    step two - paint thinner leaves residue that's removable with CHO.
    cycle cleanliness. good for locktite applications prep. use two clean
    rags for 2-b. repeat with CLEAN wire rotating brush. cleaning with a
    used brush does no one any good. the oprative factor here is the brush
    rotating evaps the crap from duh grooves with friction.

    step 3 - acetone wipe off off paint thinner possibly following the CHO
    wipe off with two rags. wannabe rocket engineer grade.

    yawl find that acetone doesn't actually remove loctite, the acetone
    brittles loctite maybe preparing the locktite for...
    drumroll please!!!

    the knife. run a knife down the threads. a utility blade? a sharpened
    bent spoke. spokes take a nice filed bent point to fit custom dude!!
    take a comfortable seat and carefully remove the stuff. use a good
    light.

    final absolute law: mechanical removal beats chemical removal every
    time. and use a softer metal brush on aluminum. ask the hardware store
    man. keep in mind that the aluminum part will depart soon enough for
    the same reasons.
     
  12. "g.daniels" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]
    > nothing removes anything. this is a basic law!
    > no seriuosly...
    > step one - a wire brush at speed rotating slowly does the job. scca
    > regional cleanyness
    >
    > step two - paint thinner leaves residue that's removable with CHO.
    > cycle cleanliness. good for locktite applications prep. use two clean
    > rags for 2-b. repeat with CLEAN wire rotating brush. cleaning with a
    > used brush does no one any good. the oprative factor here is the brush
    > rotating evaps the crap from duh grooves with friction.
    >
    > step 3 - acetone wipe off off paint thinner possibly following the CHO
    > wipe off with two rags. wannabe rocket engineer grade.
    >
    > yawl find that acetone doesn't actually remove loctite, the acetone
    > brittles loctite maybe preparing the locktite for...
    > drumroll please!!!
    >
    > the knife. run a knife down the threads. a utility blade? a sharpened
    > bent spoke. spokes take a nice filed bent point to fit custom dude!!
    > take a comfortable seat and carefully remove the stuff. use a good
    > light.
    >
    > final absolute law: mechanical removal beats chemical removal every
    > time. and use a softer metal brush on aluminum. ask the hardware store
    > man. keep in mind that the aluminum part will depart soon enough for
    > the same reasons.


    Got a heat gun?
    Works fine!
    -tom
     
  13. Weisse Luft

    Weisse Luft Guest

    Heat gun on threaded aluminum isn't a good idea. Most aluminum derives
    its strength from elevated temperature aging. Even a lowly heat gun can
    over age heat treated aluminum, causing it to lose most of its strength.

    Fasteners are no exception.

    A soak in solvent like 2-propanone (acetone) and mild brushing with a
    coarse Nylon brush will get it off.

    Also, threadlockers are a methacrylic ester, not a cyanoacrylate ester
    as posted earlier. Similar but not the same soluability. Methacrylics
    will soften but not dissolve.



    --
     
  14. g.daniels

    g.daniels Guest

    a first step is awareness that under the locktite is a fairly clean
    surface if that's a virgin factory piece your taking apart. The
    factory has a system to avoid the legal problems associated with
    granny';s bike coming apart in an intersection, veering right across
    the path of three state patrol cars going to a funeral below the legal
    limit...
    or it might be your prepared surface, so you shud know?
    the idea is not to get the underneath covered with unclean solvent
    after peeling the loctite of with a sharp edge. this leads to the idea
    that solvent and wipe and dry before scraping is a good idea.
    after scraping the lock out, more clean solvent and thinner then CHO
    will do it gives just about all the grip one needs.
    unless yawl taking the F-150 across the chiwawa at 130. loctite has a
    website that informed sources imply now has some data on it.
    The idea that extra clean surfaces add up to 20%, 30% or more
    meaningful grip is uh unknown as quantifiable data but taken for
    granite by everyone cepting those who don't have the time and
    generally DNF.
    there are exceptions that include the thinner/cho wipe and go on to
    thinner/acetone: the pulley bolts using red locktite, that F-150 front
    end, and bad environment, long term placement joints such as the
    pedals/crank where sealing the moisture out and narrowing the goo
    depth resting between(like its there right?, get the scope out!) are
    one and the same as not having the joint loosen and rip off yawl's
    testicles.
    then there's the obsessive compulsive as with the pulley bolts. small
    thread areas need the red lock: the blue doesn't hold it. But
    improving on this problem is no problem using acetone. the acetone
    emulsifies that in between surface into small solids or congealed
    liquids-there's some crap seperation going on there, no longer a
    continuous film, at leats. this gives that scoped metal surface(
    unless yawl have italian equipment) of grand canyon like microscopic
    revelation. "no virginia, its not a smooth"
    that's where the acetone gives grip. exposing the grain gioves the
    locktite a surface to grip into and a surface that will tend to
    prevent water seepage and then following that loctite separation from
    the surface as the O2 pushes the stuff up and away.
    whew!
    the cable screws? if yawl wipe the glop away. yeah not into the groove
    stupid, away from the grooves then unscrew drip blue or red into the
    gap, do yawl thing and screw the garbage coated fastener bak in then
    that shud do the job holding the cable with just a tweak of torque
    past snug. try that with the pedals and yawl be singing soprano!!!
     
  15. g.daniels

    g.daniels Guest

    on using acetone for female threads: clean the sufaces out with the
    knife or spoke following a paint thinner wipeout(and then CHO if yawl
    goin to indy) THEN thread a rag piece into the hole. pour acetone onto
    the rag soas the acetone goes down thru with gravity. maybe crush foil
    over the joint to...
    walk upwing and let sit.
     
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