Removing cranks without a crank puller?

Discussion in 'rec.sport.unicycling' started by unisteez, May 4, 2006.

  1. unisteez

    unisteez Guest

    I searched the forums but was unable to find anything..

    I got my new cranks today and i would really like to put them on right
    now, but seeing as i don't own a crank puller and the bike shop is
    closed by now. What exactly can i do to get the old cranks off?

    Thanks.


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  2. unisteez

    unisteez Guest

  3. skroboskim

    skroboskim Guest

    Unitik908 wrote:
    > well do as i do, gently beat it with a hammer..
    >
    > Chase



    ... good luck hitting the crank w/ only a hammer... you need some kind
    of punch to go through the spokes and if you don't want to scratch the
    cranks put a small board between the "punch" and the crank ... and hit
    as close as you can to where the crank meets the axle ... i have posted
    about this before... and it may help to hold the crank/pedal off the
    ground by putting the wheel on your legs


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  4. skroboskim

    skroboskim Guest

  5. unisteez

    unisteez Guest

  6. skroboskim

    skroboskim Guest

    Daytripper63 wrote:
    > The safest way to do it is: DONT do it! no matter how bad you want the
    > new cranks on , are you willing to risk damaging your uni and still not
    > getting the cranks off and still have to go to the local bike shop...



    I have never had a problem w/ the way i do it


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  7. Use a crank puller. The less extra impact and wear you put on your hub,
    the better. Plus it's so much easier. Be patient, wait till your shop
    opens, then go buy a puller, and you never have to wait again.


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  8. maestro8

    maestro8 Guest

    skroboskim wrote:
    > I have never had a problem w/ the way i do it



    I'm going to echo what madmatt said. You might not have a problem the
    first time you use a hammer, or the 2nd, but the process of using a
    hammer applies forces to the hub and cranks at angles that could cause
    the metal to deform, weaken, or even crack (microscopically).

    Generally the hub is made of a metal that is harder than the cranks,
    and the cranks are the first to deform... so you probably won't be able
    to get a good fit from hammer-removed cranks after the first or 2nd
    removal. Weakening your hub is never a good thing... especially a
    square-taper hub. It's like playing russian roulette... you'll never
    know which big drop will lead to a disasterous hub failure. Do you
    really want to risk a bruised pair of 'nads?


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