Removing rear Hugi 240(road) bearings from rotor



H

Henty

Guest
Hi there

I'm trying to replace the sealed cartridge bearings in my
Hugi 240 road rear hub (rolf vector pro gold wheel set).

However I can't seem to remove the 2 bearing catridges that
are inside the rotor. The rotor is a gold colour (does that
mean it's a problem "version 1" 240 hub?).

I have removed the seal on the outer end of the rotor and
tried using a correctly-sized socket and hammer to hit the
inner catridge. I was hoping this would force the inner
cartridge, spacer and outer cartridge out. However, no
matter how hard I hit it, it doesn't budge.

Anyone know if I'm doing something wrong?

And while I'm asking:

Since my rotor "cassette splines" seem pretty worn, does
anyone know if I can simply replace the entire rotor
(including 2 sets of sealed bearings) with a new one? Must I
get these from DT and any idea how much it is?

If I keep the current rotor, what spec bearings should I
replace the current ones with?

Many thanks Henty

--
hentyw @ innoforge.com (remove the spaces)
 
H

Henty

Guest
In answer to my own question:

First of all, what DT terms a "rotor" most people will call
a freewheel body or shell. It's the bit that the cassette
fits onto.

The 2 bearings are seperated by a spacer which can be moved
flush against the inside wall of the rotor. This will allow
access to a very well hidden and undocumented circlip (sp?)
that keeps the bearing catridges in place. Remove the
circlip (easier said than done) and the bearing catridges
can be removed with a socket and hammer.

Henty wrote:

> Hi there
>
> I'm trying to replace the sealed cartridge bearings in my
> Hugi 240 road rear hub (rolf vector pro gold wheel set).
>
> However I can't seem to remove the 2 bearing catridges
> that are inside the rotor. The rotor is a gold colour
> (does that mean it's a problem "version 1" 240 hub?).
>
> I have removed the seal on the outer end of the rotor and
> tried using a correctly-sized socket and hammer to hit the
> inner catridge. I was hoping this would force the inner
> cartridge, spacer and outer cartridge out. However, no
> matter how hard I hit it, it doesn't budge.
>
> Anyone know if I'm doing something wrong?
>
> And while I'm asking:
>
> Since my rotor "cassette splines" seem pretty worn, does
> anyone know if I can simply replace the entire rotor
> (including 2 sets of sealed bearings) with a new one? Must
> I get these from DT and any idea how much it is?
>
> If I keep the current rotor, what spec bearings should I
> replace the current ones with?
>
>
> Many thanks Henty
>

--
hentyw @ innoforge.com (remove the spaces)