Repair or replace whole bike?



R

Rex Kerr

Guest
The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
in question)
http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html

The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.

I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.

Harris Cyclery has a 27" 126mm wheelset with cartridge bearings (side
question, how much harder are they to maintain -- will I need special
tools?) or the same hub with a 700C rim (which I know the brakes will
reach, I've done it before in a pinch). Either way it's still a
freewheel, so I still risk bending axles. Another option is to just
fight it and put a 130mm wheel in with a 9 speed cassette (which I've
also done before, so I know that it can be done -- though 9 speed
spacing is a bit close to accurately shift with the existing Suntour
friction barend shifters and 7 speed tourney megarange derailer) , but
I'm starting to lose clearance for the bolt heads from my fender and
rack mounts (the holes are not threaded, so the heads are inside of the
dropouts).

So, what do I do?

Pro for fixing it:
* I ride this bike far more than any of my others, it's by far my
favorite (though my new fixie is getting a lot of love lately),
it's the most comfortable, etc.
* A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
as the old steel road bikes that I like so much
* Total cost is cheaper
* I still get to pretend to be a retro-grouch with my friction
shifters,
cotton tape, etc -- wouldn't look quite right on a modern frame. :)

Cons:
* It's gonna cost me about $300 (including the new freewheel
I need, tires, which I probably need anyway, if I go the 700C
route, etc) by the time I get all of the parts I need to get it back
into good riding shape.
* It's still an old bike that still won't have or accept modern
components
* What else is about worn out? Will probably want a new BB soon,
how long is the crankset gonna last? Recabling is probably not too
far in the future, how long will the old diacomp center pull brakes
last? Is the straddle cable on the verge of snapping? Those are
hard to find!

If you suggest fixing it:
* Should I go 27" or 700C? I'm inclined to say 700C to allow for
more tire options, but that'll make it harder to replace the brakes
(if needed) in the future since they'll need to have even more
reach than they already need.
* Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query
about spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
speeds
is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
things?

If you suggest replacing the whole bike:
* What model would be similar to what I've got? I've lusted over the
Trek 520 in the past, but $1200+ is a bit much. Even more so the
Rivendell and the like (though Grant may disagree that there are
any that qualify as 'and the like'), but they're even MORE
expensive.
* How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for < $1000
that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
etc?

Thanks!
-Rex
 
Rex Kerr wrote:
> The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
> in question)
> http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html
>
> The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.
>
> I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
> and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
> bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
> part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
> considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.
>
> Harris Cyclery has a 27" 126mm wheelset with cartridge bearings (side
> question, how much harder are they to maintain -- will I need special
> tools?) or the same hub with a 700C rim (which I know the brakes will
> reach, I've done it before in a pinch). Either way it's still a
> freewheel, so I still risk bending axles. Another option is to just
> fight it and put a 130mm wheel in with a 9 speed cassette (which I've
> also done before, so I know that it can be done -- though 9 speed
> spacing is a bit close to accurately shift with the existing Suntour
> friction barend shifters and 7 speed tourney megarange derailer) , but
> I'm starting to lose clearance for the bolt heads from my fender and
> rack mounts (the holes are not threaded, so the heads are inside of the
> dropouts).
>
> So, what do I do?
>
> Pro for fixing it:
> * I ride this bike far more than any of my others, it's by far my
> favorite (though my new fixie is getting a lot of love lately),
> it's the most comfortable, etc.
> * A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
> as the old steel road bikes that I like so much
> * Total cost is cheaper
> * I still get to pretend to be a retro-grouch with my friction
> shifters,
> cotton tape, etc -- wouldn't look quite right on a modern frame. :)
>
> Cons:
> * It's gonna cost me about $300 (including the new freewheel
> I need, tires, which I probably need anyway, if I go the 700C
> route, etc) by the time I get all of the parts I need to get it back
> into good riding shape.
> * It's still an old bike that still won't have or accept modern
> components
> * What else is about worn out? Will probably want a new BB soon,
> how long is the crankset gonna last? Recabling is probably not too
> far in the future, how long will the old diacomp center pull brakes
> last? Is the straddle cable on the verge of snapping? Those are
> hard to find!
>
> If you suggest fixing it:
> * Should I go 27" or 700C? I'm inclined to say 700C to allow for
> more tire options, but that'll make it harder to replace the brakes
> (if needed) in the future since they'll need to have even more
> reach than they already need.
> * Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
> cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query
> about spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
> speeds
> is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
> things?
>
> If you suggest replacing the whole bike:
> * What model would be similar to what I've got? I've lusted over the
> Trek 520 in the past, but $1200+ is a bit much. Even more so the
> Rivendell and the like (though Grant may disagree that there are
> any that qualify as 'and the like'), but they're even MORE
> expensive.
> * How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for < $1000
> that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
> etc?
>
> Thanks!
> -Rex


I suggest looking at craigslist.org in your area for decent used bikes.
I think you can easily find any bike in good mechanical shape of more
recent vintage (i.e. w/in last 10 yrs) for around $400, give or take
$100. Especially if you know what you're doing regarding bikes, you
can easily find a good deal and something that fits.
 
700c and respace yourself only if you have trouble spreading the rear
triangle when mounting and the frame is steel.

http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

Rex Kerr wrote:
<deleted>
> * Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
> cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query
> about spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
> speeds
> is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
> things?

<deleted>
> Thanks!
> -Rex
 
Rex Kerr wrote:
> The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
> in question)
> http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html
>
> The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.
>
> I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
> and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
> bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
> part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
> considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.
>
> Harris Cyclery has a 27" 126mm wheelset with cartridge bearings (side
> question, how much harder are they to maintain -- will I need special
> tools?) or the same hub with a 700C rim (which I know the brakes will
> reach, I've done it before in a pinch). Either way it's still a
> freewheel, so I still risk bending axles. Another option is to just
> fight it and put a 130mm wheel in with a 9 speed cassette (which I've
> also done before, so I know that it can be done -- though 9 speed
> spacing is a bit close to accurately shift with the existing Suntour
> friction barend shifters and 7 speed tourney megarange derailer) , but
> I'm starting to lose clearance for the bolt heads from my fender and
> rack mounts (the holes are not threaded, so the heads are inside of the
> dropouts).
>
> So, what do I do?
>
> Pro for fixing it:
> * I ride this bike far more than any of my others, it's by far my
> favorite (though my new fixie is getting a lot of love lately),
> it's the most comfortable, etc.
> * A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
> as the old steel road bikes that I like so much
> * Total cost is cheaper
> * I still get to pretend to be a retro-grouch with my friction
> shifters,
> cotton tape, etc -- wouldn't look quite right on a modern frame. :)
>
> Cons:
> * It's gonna cost me about $300 (including the new freewheel
> I need, tires, which I probably need anyway, if I go the 700C
> route, etc) by the time I get all of the parts I need to get it back
> into good riding shape.
> * It's still an old bike that still won't have or accept modern
> components
> * What else is about worn out? Will probably want a new BB soon,
> how long is the crankset gonna last? Recabling is probably not too
> far in the future, how long will the old diacomp center pull brakes
> last? Is the straddle cable on the verge of snapping? Those are
> hard to find!
>
> If you suggest fixing it:
> * Should I go 27" or 700C? I'm inclined to say 700C to allow for
> more tire options, but that'll make it harder to replace the brakes
> (if needed) in the future since they'll need to have even more
> reach than they already need.
> * Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
> cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query
> about spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
> speeds
> is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
> things?
>
> If you suggest replacing the whole bike:
> * What model would be similar to what I've got? I've lusted over the
> Trek 520 in the past, but $1200+ is a bit much. Even more so the
> Rivendell and the like (though Grant may disagree that there are
> any that qualify as 'and the like'), but they're even MORE
> expensive.
> * How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for < $1000
> that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
> etc?
>
> Thanks!
> -Rex


How's $850 grab ya.

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/07_bikes/aurora.html

Chris
 
Rex Kerr wrote:
> The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
> in question)
> http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html
>
> The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.
>
> I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
> and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
> bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
> part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
> considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.


>
> So, what do I do?


I'd go for the Sun/Alivio wheelset Harris has for $120 or something
similar. You can't go wrong with Shimano hubs and Sun rims. Even if you
decide to replace the bike later, you've got decent wheels for spares or
for a new bike.
 
"Rex Kerr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
> in question)
> http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html
>
> The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.
>
> I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
> and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
> bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
> part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
> considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.
>
> Harris Cyclery has a 27" 126mm wheelset with cartridge bearings (side
> question, how much harder are they to maintain -- will I need special
> tools?) or the same hub with a 700C rim (which I know the brakes will
> reach, I've done it before in a pinch). Either way it's still a
> freewheel, so I still risk bending axles. Another option is to just
> fight it and put a 130mm wheel in with a 9 speed cassette (which I've
> also done before, so I know that it can be done -- though 9 speed
> spacing is a bit close to accurately shift with the existing Suntour
> friction barend shifters and 7 speed tourney megarange derailer) , but
> I'm starting to lose clearance for the bolt heads from my fender and
> rack mounts (the holes are not threaded, so the heads are inside of the
> dropouts).
>
> So, what do I do?
>
> Pro for fixing it:
> * I ride this bike far more than any of my others, it's by far my
> favorite (though my new fixie is getting a lot of love lately),
> it's the most comfortable, etc.
> * A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
> as the old steel road bikes that I like so much
> * Total cost is cheaper
> * I still get to pretend to be a retro-grouch with my friction
> shifters,
> cotton tape, etc -- wouldn't look quite right on a modern frame. :)
>
> Cons:
> * It's gonna cost me about $300 (including the new freewheel
> I need, tires, which I probably need anyway, if I go the 700C
> route, etc) by the time I get all of the parts I need to get it back
> into good riding shape.
> * It's still an old bike that still won't have or accept modern
> components
> * What else is about worn out? Will probably want a new BB soon,
> how long is the crankset gonna last? Recabling is probably not too
> far in the future, how long will the old diacomp center pull brakes
> last? Is the straddle cable on the verge of snapping? Those are
> hard to find!
>
> If you suggest fixing it:
> * Should I go 27" or 700C? I'm inclined to say 700C to allow for
> more tire options, but that'll make it harder to replace the brakes
> (if needed) in the future since they'll need to have even more
> reach than they already need.
> * Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
> cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query
> about spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
> speeds
> is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
> things?
>
> If you suggest replacing the whole bike:
> * What model would be similar to what I've got? I've lusted over the
> Trek 520 in the past, but $1200+ is a bit much. Even more so the
> Rivendell and the like (though Grant may disagree that there are
> any that qualify as 'and the like'), but they're even MORE
> expensive.
> * How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for < $1000
> that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
> etc?
>
> Thanks!
> -Rex
>



I'm in a similar boat. I have a '71 Raleigh Record I love, but just about
had it with the crappy original Huret Alvit shifters and derailleurs. They
can be replaced, and thought about replacing the original cottered cranks as
well, but I've decided to turn the bike into a singlespeed, and get a new
bike. I happen to have a 27" 126mm singlespd rear wheel, and I'm already
running a 700c up front on the Raleigh. I'm looking at Jamis Aurora,
Cannondale T800, Trek 520. Get the last year's model and save a couple of
hundred $.
 
Rex Kerr wrote:
> The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
> in question)
> http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html


Nice looking bike.

> The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.
>
> I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
> and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
> bike.


What kind of alignment issues? Rear hanger?

I would switch to a 7-speed freehub/cassette wheel, and have a good
shop check the rear spacing and rear hanger/dropout alignment. That
shouldn't cost much. You're much less likely to bend an axle with a
freehub.

>From the way the bike is set up, I'm guessing you're a big guy, and

ride in an fairly upright positon. That puts a heavy load on the rear
wheel. I'd recommend 36 spokes (butted 14-15-14), a good strong rim,
and tight spokes (but no threadlock).

I'm not crazy about the Weinmann center pulls, but if you're used to
them so be it. Especially if you switch to 700c wheels (which is
probably a good idea more so for rim selection than tires).

If this is really a mid '70s bike, it almost certainly came with 120 mm
rear spacing. So it's already been spread to 126 mm. I'd be reluctant
to go to 130 mm.

Art Harris
 
Rex Kerr wrote:
> The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
> in question)
> http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html
>
> The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.
> .....
>
> So, what do I do?
>
> ......
>
> Thanks!
> -Rex
>


Go test-ride one of the RANS Sport Series bikes.
I have a (2006) Fusion and love it, but it doesn't allow pedaling while
standing. For that try to find a Cruz or Zenetic; there is a "tour"
model Zenetic but I dunno what's the difference between it and the other.
~
 
On Thu, 07 Dec 2006 23:18:24 -0800, Rex Kerr wrote:

> So, what do I do?


If the picture in the link is your bike, as I assume it is, the first
thing I noticed is that it's too small for you. That's why you put in the
extra-long seatpost, the long and tall stem (a real weak link that would
be no fun at all if it broke), and the bars tilted back like they are.

The components were OK when the bike was made, but there are better ones
now. No real advantage in friction shifting, or barcons. Try Campy Ergo
or STI (I prefer the Campy) to see the difference.

There is also no advantage in trying to keep the freewheel hubs.
Freewheels are garbage inside, being practically unrepairable and
fragile due to the itty-bitty bearings and the tiny springs on the pawls.
Then there is the axle-breakage problem.

> * A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
> as the old steel road bikes that I like so much


Depends on which one you get.

> * How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for < $1000
> that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
> etc?


Well, under $1000 may be tough to find, but for not much over that you can
get all these and more. You want a touring bike, or maybe a cross frame
with the added goodies. They certainly are available, though not always
on the shop floor at your LBS, depending on what is local to you. Some of
these bikes are really quite good, and they might even have one that fits
you, which should be a noticeable improvement.

You could also get a used bike, but you need to shop around for just what
you want. As a "project" that would be OK, but if you depend on the bike
to get to work, it wouldn't be so good.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Anyone who is capable of getting themselves made President
_`\(,_ | should on no account be allowed to do the job. -- Douglas Adams
(_)/ (_) |
 
On Thu, 07 Dec 2006 23:18:24 -0800, Rex Kerr wrote:

> The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike in
> question)
> http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html
>
> The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.
>
> I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
> and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
> bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
> part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
> considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.
>
> Harris Cyclery has a 27" 126mm wheelset with cartridge bearings (side
> question, how much harder are they to maintain -- will I need special
> tools?) or the same hub with a 700C rim (which I know the brakes will
> reach, I've done it before in a pinch). Either way it's still a
> freewheel, so I still risk bending axles. Another option is to just
> fight it and put a 130mm wheel in with a 9 speed cassette (which I've
> also done before, so I know that it can be done -- though 9 speed
> spacing is a bit close to accurately shift with the existing Suntour
> friction barend shifters and 7 speed tourney megarange derailer) , but
> I'm starting to lose clearance for the bolt heads from my fender and
> rack mounts (the holes are not threaded, so the heads are inside of the
> dropouts).
>
> So, what do I do?
>
> Pro for fixing it:
> * I ride this bike far more than any of my others, it's by far my
> favorite (though my new fixie is getting a lot of love lately), it's
> the most comfortable, etc.
> * A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
> as the old steel road bikes that I like so much
> * Total cost is cheaper
> * I still get to pretend to be a retro-grouch with my friction
> shifters,
> cotton tape, etc -- wouldn't look quite right on a modern frame. :)
>
> Cons:
> * It's gonna cost me about $300 (including the new freewheel
> I need, tires, which I probably need anyway, if I go the 700C route,
> etc) by the time I get all of the parts I need to get it back into
> good riding shape.
> * It's still an old bike that still won't have or accept modern
> components
> * What else is about worn out? Will probably want a new BB soon,
> how long is the crankset gonna last? Recabling is probably not too
> far in the future, how long will the old diacomp center pull brakes
> last? Is the straddle cable on the verge of snapping? Those are
> hard to find!
>
> If you suggest fixing it:
> * Should I go 27" or 700C? I'm inclined to say 700C to allow for
> more tire options, but that'll make it harder to replace the brakes
> (if needed) in the future since they'll need to have even more reach
> than they already need.
> * Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
> cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query about
> spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
> speeds
> is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
> things?
>
> If you suggest replacing the whole bike: * What model would be similar
> to what I've got? I've lusted over the
> Trek 520 in the past, but $1200+ is a bit much. Even more so the
> Rivendell and the like (though Grant may disagree that there are any
> that qualify as 'and the like'), but they're even MORE
> expensive.
> * How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for < $1000
> that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
> etc?


I'll echo what Art and Peter said. Get some decent new wheels with a
freehub/cassette. If you're comfortable with everything else, there's no
reason to change it. I wouldn't bother with a new bike unless you're
craving 9-10sp drivetrains and STI/Ergo.

Matt O.
 
Rex Kerr wrote:
> I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
> and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
> bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
> part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
> considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.


It's not clear to me what "alignment issues" means. If it's strictly
related to wheels (trueness and dish), get a new wheel. Otherwise, it
might be time for a new bike.

> So, what do I do?


Time for a definitive answer here:

It depends.

:)

> Pro for fixing it:
> * I ride this bike far more than any of my others, it's by far my
> favorite (though my new fixie is getting a lot of love lately),
> it's the most comfortable, etc.
> * A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
> as the old steel road bikes that I like so much
> * Total cost is cheaper


If you like this one, I'd look at modern touring bikes for similar
geometries. You note below the Trek 520 is a bit out of your price
range, but you might want to stretch it a bit. Jamis Aurora, REI
Novarra Randonee, Fuji Touring, and Cannondale T800 are similar bikes,
and all but the Cannondale and Trek were under $1,000 last year.

> Cons:
> * It's gonna cost me about $300 (including the new freewheel
> I need, tires, which I probably need anyway, if I go the 700C
> route, etc) by the time I get all of the parts I need to get it back
> into good riding shape.
> * It's still an old bike that still won't have or accept modern
> components
> * What else is about worn out? Will probably want a new BB soon,
> how long is the crankset gonna last? Recabling is probably not too
> far in the future, how long will the old diacomp center pull brakes
> last? Is the straddle cable on the verge of snapping? Those are
> hard to find!


If you can afford a new bike, these are the reasons I'd go new for
anything more than wheel replacement. You're out of spare parts, so
you're going to have to rebuild the thing a piece at a time with new
parts. Remember how much a new car would cost if you bought it in
parts, instead of all at once? Same thing with bikes, just an order of
magnitude cheaper.


Pat
 
David L. Johnson wrote:
> If the picture in the link is your bike, as I assume it is, the first
> thing I noticed is that it's too small for you.


That was my first impression too. But it looks like about a 24" frame,
so I'm not sure he'll find anything much bigger without going custom
(especially these days when small frames are "in"). Also, the fact that
the bars are at the same height as the saddle (not too common anymore)
makes the tall stem look extreme by modern standards.

Art Harris
 
Art Harris wrote:
> David L. Johnson wrote:
> > If the picture in the link is your bike, as I assume it is, the first
> > thing I noticed is that it's too small for you.

>
> That was my first impression too. But it looks like about a 24" frame,
> so I'm not sure he'll find anything much bigger without going custom
> (especially these days when small frames are "in"). Also, the fact that
> the bars are at the same height as the saddle (not too common anymore)
> makes the tall stem look extreme by modern standards.


Bingo.... the frame measures 62 cm center to center, few production
bikes were ever any bigger than that, and modern 'compact geometry'
frames are even more ridiculous! The frame I use for my fixie is 63 cm
center to center, but the fit feels the same. I'd love to go custom,
but that's even MORE out of my price range!

The handlebars are tilted back a notable amount in the picture, they're
not like that anymore, I'm not sure why I had them so far back then.
 
On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 09:28:05 -0800, Rex Kerr wrote:


>> That was my first impression too. But it looks like about a 24" frame,
>> so I'm not sure he'll find anything much bigger without going custom


Good point.

> Bingo.... the frame measures 62 cm center to center, few production
> bikes were ever any bigger than that, and modern 'compact geometry'
> frames are even more ridiculous! The frame I use for my fixie is 63 cm
> center to center, but the fit feels the same. I'd love to go custom,
> but that's even MORE out of my price range!


It might be worth looking for one of the frames mentioned in this thread,
and see if you can order a big one.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | It is probable that television drama of high caliber and
_`\(,_ | produced by first-rate artists will materially raise the level
(_)/ (_) | of dramatic taste in the nation. -- David Sarnoff, 1939
 
"Rex Kerr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
> in question)
> http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html
>
> The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.
>
> I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
> and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
> bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
> part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
> considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.
>
> Harris Cyclery has a 27" 126mm wheelset with cartridge bearings (side
> question, how much harder are they to maintain -- will I need special
> tools?) or the same hub with a 700C rim (which I know the brakes will
> reach, I've done it before in a pinch). Either way it's still a
> freewheel, so I still risk bending axles. Another option is to just
> fight it and put a 130mm wheel in with a 9 speed cassette (which I've
> also done before, so I know that it can be done -- though 9 speed
> spacing is a bit close to accurately shift with the existing Suntour
> friction barend shifters and 7 speed tourney megarange derailer) , but
> I'm starting to lose clearance for the bolt heads from my fender and
> rack mounts (the holes are not threaded, so the heads are inside of the
> dropouts).
>
> So, what do I do?
>
> Pro for fixing it:
> * I ride this bike far more than any of my others, it's by far my
> favorite (though my new fixie is getting a lot of love lately),
> it's the most comfortable, etc.
> * A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
> as the old steel road bikes that I like so much
> * Total cost is cheaper
> * I still get to pretend to be a retro-grouch with my friction
> shifters,
> cotton tape, etc -- wouldn't look quite right on a modern frame. :)
>
> Cons:
> * It's gonna cost me about $300 (including the new freewheel
> I need, tires, which I probably need anyway, if I go the 700C
> route, etc) by the time I get all of the parts I need to get it back
> into good riding shape.
> * It's still an old bike that still won't have or accept modern
> components
> * What else is about worn out? Will probably want a new BB soon,
> how long is the crankset gonna last? Recabling is probably not too
> far in the future, how long will the old diacomp center pull brakes
> last? Is the straddle cable on the verge of snapping? Those are
> hard to find!
>
> If you suggest fixing it:
> * Should I go 27" or 700C? I'm inclined to say 700C to allow for
> more tire options, but that'll make it harder to replace the brakes
> (if needed) in the future since they'll need to have even more
> reach than they already need.
> * Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
> cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query
> about spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
> speeds
> is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
> things?
>
> If you suggest replacing the whole bike:
> * What model would be similar to what I've got? I've lusted over the
> Trek 520 in the past, but $1200+ is a bit much. Even more so the
> Rivendell and the like (though Grant may disagree that there are
> any that qualify as 'and the like'), but they're even MORE
> expensive.
> * How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for < $1000
> that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
> etc?
>
> Thanks!
> -Rex
>


Ever hear the phrases "silk stockings on a rooster" or "making a silk
purse out of a sow's ear"?

I'm not intending to sound snobbish but you have a bike that is coming up
on 30 years old and sounds like it's been ridden a lot.

Japanese bikes from the mid 70s left a lot to be desired as far as frame
geometry was concerned. Brands like Nishiki, Azuki, Takara, Centurion and
so on were contrived Japanese sounding names made up by a number of
bicycle wholesalers in the US trying to cash in on the tailend of the
1970s bike boom.

The components tended to be better than contemporary European products but
the frames generally sucked as far ride and handling was concerned.

By the end of the 70s the Japanese bike builders started copying Italian
frame design but they generally didn't have the right blend of tubing and
geometry. Many of them were made with heavy gage tubing.

From the photo in your link it looks like you could ride a slightly larger
sized frame. You didn't mention your height or weight but a strong rider
could easily fatigue the frame and other components over 25+ years of
ridding.

As several others have suggested, you might want to look around for a good
used bike from the mid 80s to mid 90s. They would probably have most of
the improvements that have made cycling more enjoyable such as index
shifting without being saddled with a lot of marketing "features".

Good luck,

Chas.
 
"Art Harris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> David L. Johnson wrote:
> > If the picture in the link is your bike, as I assume it is, the first
> > thing I noticed is that it's too small for you.

>
> That was my first impression too. But it looks like about a 24" frame,
> so I'm not sure he'll find anything much bigger without going custom
> (especially these days when small frames are "in"). Also, the fact that
> the bars are at the same height as the saddle (not too common anymore)
> makes the tall stem look extreme by modern standards.
>
> Art Harris
>


That was the first thing I noticed too. That's why I suggest that the OP
might want to look for a good used bike that's at least a 64cm frame.

There were a some 27" frames sold a number of years ago but many of them
had poor frame geometry. We used to have Holdsworth build us oversized
frames that I've been told handled well. A 57cm is the largest I can
standover without singing soprano so I wouldn't know. ;-)

Chas.
 
"Rex Kerr" <[email protected]> writes:

>The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
>in question) http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html


>The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.


>I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
>and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
>bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
>part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
>considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.


www.biketoolsetc.com has campy-compatible 126mm full M10 QR axle-sets
(axle, cones, washers, locknuts) for ~ $6. You are not out of axles
as long as these are made in Taiwan. Because campy cones are just
about the skinnest cones in existence, these are likely to work on
MANY axles, even ones that take a cone with a shoulder.

Spoke tension problems can be fixed by re-spoking the wheels with good
quality spokes. I have heard that double-butted spokes go out of
tension less frequently than plain-gauge spokes, and this bike was
undoubtedly shipped with low-cost plain gauge spokes (these days,
plain-guage spokes are half the cost of double-butted ones.)

Alignment issues should be fixable at any good LBS.

I know it can be frustrating. I am having a similarly frustrating
time with a MAVIC 501 hub which insists on "clicking" even though
there is apparently nothing wrong, and it has all-new bearings - SKF
and Phil Wood ones.

You should also check to make sure that no single eyelets have pulled
through, that will potentially cause immediate truing problems and
noise in the drivetrain. It happened on my nashbar cheapo $60 wheels
from 1988.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA
 
"Bellsouth Ijit 2.0" <[email protected]> writes:

>I'm in a similar boat. I have a '71 Raleigh Record I love, but just about
>had it with the crappy original Huret Alvit shifters and derailleurs. They
>can be replaced, and thought about replacing the original cottered cranks as
>well, but I've decided to turn the bike into a singlespeed, and get a new
>bike. I happen to have a 27" 126mm singlespd rear wheel, and I'm already
>running a 700c up front on the Raleigh. I'm looking at Jamis Aurora,
>Cannondale T800, Trek 520. Get the last year's model and save a couple of
>hundred $.


I upgraded a 1972 raleigh grand prix - almost the same bike, except it
has centerpulls, as follows :

Sugino Maxy Crank ($20 on ebay right now)
Sugino spindle (harder to find, you have raleigh 26 tpi threads)
Suntour VGT rear derailleur
Suntour CompV / SL / or eqiuvalent derailleur
Same shifters or new ones ( Sunrace makes a nice suntour-like downtube
clamp-on, or NOS ebay barcons for $40).

total cost to put it back on the road again : about $40 - $80.

Good luck,

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA
 
> Go test-ride one of the RANS Sport Series bikes.
> I have a (2006) Fusion and love it, but it doesn't allow pedaling while
> standing. For that try to find a Cruz or Zenetic; there is a "tour"
> model Zenetic but I dunno what's the difference between it and the other.


I already have a RANS V-Rex, but I prefer my uprights for the majority
of my riding!

(No flame wars please!!)