Replacement pads for Deore LX cantilever brakes?

Note that the brakes in question are true cantilvers, not V-brakes.

I have these brakes both front and rear and they function very well and are easy to adjust, despite
the evil rim-chewing Shimano brake pad compound.

The pad assembly looks something like the picture below (excuse ASCII art). The cantilever arm goes
between parts 3 and 4:

____
/ |
| _|
__ _ | |_.
/ |_______ | | ## |\\ \ |
| _______| )| )( | | | |
\_| |_| ## |// / _|
| |_.
| |
\___|

1 2 3 4 5

From the left, a 5mm allen bolt, an aluminium locking collar, a serrated lock washer, a curved
washer and the pad itself. The curved washer fits into an indentation on the brake pad and allows
the angle of the pad to be adjusted before (1) is tightened.

Where can I get a modern pad like this? I've tried ordinary threaded cantilever brake pads but these
were not suitable as there was no way to adjust the pad angle. I'd prefer not to replace these
brakes as aside from the nasty pad compound they're great. Also, I'm running them with drop bar
levers so V brakes aren't an option.

Thanks & regards,

-david

 

On Sat, 28 Jun 2003 17:43:09 +0000 (UTC), David Nutter <[email protected]> wrote:

>Where can I get a modern pad like this?

Anywhere. My commuter runs standard Aztec canti pads in LX cantis on the back.

Avoid the LX pads though - two sets of those in wet weather will see a rim off !

>I've tried ordinary threaded cantilever brake pads

Canti pads aren't threaded. Those were caliper pads.

 

On Sun, 29 Jun 2003, Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 28 Jun 2003 17:43:09 +0000 (UTC), David Nutter <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I've tried ordinary threaded cantilever brake pads
>
> Canti pads aren't threaded. Those were caliper pads.

Some are.

Take yourself to www.wiggle.co.uk and look at the pictures - in the 'special offers' box as I write
three of the four cantilever blocks are threaded and only one is not. None of them are caliper pads.

regards, Ian SMith
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|o o|
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On Sun, 29 Jun 2003 08:19:51 +0000 (UTC), Ian Smith <[email protected]> wrote:

>three of the four cantilever blocks are threaded and only one is not.

V brakes surely (which I guess class as cantis).

 

On Sun, 29 Jun 2003 12:48:28 +0100, Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 29 Jun 2003 08:19:51 +0000 (UTC), Ian Smith <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >three of the four cantilever blocks are threaded and only one is not.
>
> V brakes surely (which I guess class as cantis).

The statement made was that threaded blocks must be for calipers.

regards, Ian SMith
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|o o|
|/ \|

 

Andy Dingley <[email protected]> said:
> On Sat, 28 Jun 2003 17:43:09 +0000 (UTC), David Nutter <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Where can I get a modern pad like this?
>
> Anywhere. My commuter runs standard Aztec canti pads in LX cantis on the back.

Unfortunately, standard cantilever pads have smooth posts- these cantilevers do not have the
necessary fixings to secure smooth posted pads, hence the thing with the bolts I described.

> Avoid the LX pads though - two sets of those in wet weather will see a rim off !

Oh dear. It's nice and dry at the moment though *touches MDF*

>>I've tried ordinary threaded cantilever brake pads
>
> Canti pads aren't threaded. Those were caliper pads.

That's not what it said on the packet. However, the way the pads I have at the moment are attached
is very similar to a road caliper, though the bolts go into the pad rather than stick out of it if
you see what I mean.

Anyway, I've identified a potential source of confusion: are your LX cantilevers like the ones here:

http://www.bikepro.com/products/brakes/brakecanti/shim.html

If so, mine are slightly different (M550) from 1991, apparently!

I shall take Sam's advice above and buy some V-brake shoes and pads and see if that helps. If not, I
shall be looking at a set of new Avids I guess

Regards,

-david

 

Sam Salt <[email protected]> said:
> Sorry can't quite follow your drawing but my Galaxy has cantis and I swapped the original
> Shimano blocks for some Fibrax v-brake shoes with cartridge pads.This means that the shoes stay
> at their original settings and just the pads are changed.Need to fiddle a bit occasionally.Can
> be seen here:-
>
> http://www.northdown.com/Fibrax/Framesets/UKVBra.html
>
> Sold at Halfords about £4 for a pair of blocks,bit more for the shoes which you will need to start
> with.I find they wear pretty well also.Hope this helps.

Mmm, interesting idea: what type of shoes are you using? Unfortunately I can only find blocks
on Fibrax's site and would obviously prefer to buy something somebody else has already used
with success.

Poking around at wiggle, the Koolstop Thinline pads might be a suitable replacement as well.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,

-david

 

On Sun, 29 Jun 2003 18:12:18 +0000 (UTC), David Nutter <[email protected]> wrote:

>If so, mine are slightly different (M550) from 1991, apparently!

Ah ! Mine are M560 and M900 from '95

 

Hmm... they do appear to only show the pads but I can assure you they are also sold in a pack with
pads and shoes together.Don't know the part number or anything but Halfords definately sell them as
I purchased mine there.

Sam Salt

David Nutter wrote:
> Sam Salt <[email protected]> said:
>> Sorry can't quite follow your drawing but my Galaxy has cantis and I swapped the original
>> Shimano blocks for some Fibrax v-brake shoes with cartridge pads.This means that the shoes stay
>> at their original settings and just the pads are changed.Need to fiddle a bit occasionally.Can
>> be seen here:-
>>
>> http://www.northdown.com/Fibrax/Framesets/UKVBra.html
>>
>> Sold at Halfords about £4 for a pair of blocks,bit more for the shoes which you will need to
>> start with.I find they wear pretty well also.Hope this helps.
>
> Mmm, interesting idea: what type of shoes are you using? Unfortunately I can only find blocks on
> Fibrax's site and would obviously prefer to buy something somebody else has already used with
> success.
>
> Poking around at wiggle, the Koolstop Thinline pads might be a suitable replacement as well.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Regards,
>
> -david

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David Nutter <[email protected]> said:

*snip ascii sketching*

> Where can I get a modern pad like this? I've tried ordinary threaded cantilever brake pads but
> these were not suitable as there was no way to adjust the pad angle. I'd prefer not to replace
> these brakes as aside from the nasty pad compound they're great. Also, I'm running them with drop
> bar levers so V brakes aren't an option.

Well, I've chatted to Wiggle and they recommended the Avid Rim Wrangler cartridges and pad inserts
so I've ordered two pairs of those. I'll let you know the results of fitting them when they arrive.

Unfortunately for my wallet, I also gave into temptation and bought a track pump, plus a new Speccy
bottle cage and bottle while I was there. Damn.

Regards,

-david did spend enough to get free delivery, so not *all* bad...

 

On Sat, 28 Jun 2003 17:43:09 +0000 (UTC), contributor David Nutter had scribed:
> From the left, a 5mm allen bolt, an aluminium locking collar, a serrated lock washer, a curved
> washer and the pad itself. The curved washer fits into an indentation on the brake pad and allows
> the angle of the pad to be adjusted before (1) is tightened.
>
> Where can I get a modern pad like this? I've tried ordinary threaded cantilever brake pads but
> these were not suitable as there was no way to adjust the pad angle. I'd prefer not to replace
> these brakes as aside from the nasty pad compound they're great. Also, I'm running them with drop
> bar levers so V brakes aren't an option.
>

I know I am a little late on this on.

The description of these brakes appear similarly to those on my wife's 1990 Galaxy, Dawes, that
year, fitted different cantilever brakes which required a 5mm allen key to undo/adjust. I managed to
find some replacement blocks from Fibrax. The blocks themselves have a thread embedded within it,
the bolt on the brake assembly fastened to this thread.

Caro Hague may remember me, at York Rally when she was on a stand, fiddling with one these
assemblies complete with washers and spacers of various types, which did the inevitable leaving us
both to look for a small washer in the grass. I was on the way to the Fibrax stand at the time.

Tip, ensure that the internal thread in the block is clean of rubber compound before installing,
otherwise the thread is liable to get damaged.

Gary

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