Replacing dead Shimano 9sp STI levers (brifters)

[Peter Headland]

It seems like my right 9sp Shimano Tiagra brake/shift lever
("brifter") has finally developed a terminal case of the "floppy lever
syndrome" in which the lever doesn't pick up the cable to shift to
lower gears. For a while, flushing with WD-40 would cure it, but never
for very long. I might curse myself for buying the el-cheapo Tiagra
instead of Ultegra, but my impression is that this malady can afflict
any Shimano shift levers that get used in the rain or dust.

Anyhow, now the question is "what to replace it with"? It seems like
there are lots of new (swap-out) 10sp STI lever sets around for
reasonable prices on eBay, but new 9sp is becoming rare and expensive.
So the obvious choice seemed to be get an new or unused set of 10sp
levers and use a JTek adapter (http://www.jtekengineering.com/
shiftmate.htm) to adapt them to my 9sp drivetrain.

Unfortunately, I am very fond of Shimano's FlightDeck, and my
impression is that I would need a new computer and a new wiring
harness. IOW, my 6501 FlightDeck and wiring harness won't work with
the 10sp levers, and even if I replace the computer, the 6501 wiring
harness won't fit the 10sp levers.

1. Am I right about the FlightDeck compatibility issues?

2. If so, any suggestions where I can get a new or nearly-new set of
9sp levers for a sensible price? I don't want a set that have been
heavily used.

3. Should I just bite the bullet and switch to the 10sp levers so that
next time one breaks I don't have to worry about finding 9sp levers
(which by then will presumably be unobtainable)?

4. On the grounds I might have to buy a new computer, I considered
switching to Campag Veloce 10sp levers (again with a JTek adapter) and
Campy's Ergobrain, but I have a 12-34 cassette, and it seems like
Ergobrain only goes up to 32T sprockets. Is this true?

5. Any other ideas? Just don't tell me that real men don't need gear
indicators and hood-mounted buttons; I happen to like them a lot.

--
Peter Headland

 

[[email protected]]

On Jul 15, 12:17 pm, Peter Headland <[email protected]> wrote:
> It seems like my right 9sp Shimano Tiagra brake/shift lever
> ("brifter") has finally developed a terminal case of the "floppy lever
> syndrome" in which the lever doesn't pick up the cable to shift to
> lower gears. For a while, flushing with WD-40 would cure it, but never
> for very long. I might curse myself for buying the el-cheapo Tiagra
> instead of Ultegra, but my impression is that this malady can afflict
> any Shimano shift levers that get used in the rain or dust.
>
> Anyhow, now the question is "what to replace it with"? It seems like
> there are lots of new (swap-out) 10sp STI lever sets around for
> reasonable prices on eBay, but new 9sp is becoming rare and expensive.
> So the obvious choice seemed to be get an new or unused set of 10sp
> levers and use a JTek adapter (http://www.jtekengineering.com/
> shiftmate.htm) to adapt them to my 9sp drivetrain.
>
> Unfortunately, I am very fond of Shimano's FlightDeck, and my
> impression is that I would need a new computer and a new wiring
> harness. IOW, my 6501 FlightDeck and wiring harness won't work with
> the 10sp levers, and even if I replace the computer, the 6501 wiring
> harness won't fit the 10sp levers.
>
> 1. Am I right about the FlightDeck compatibility issues?
>
> 2. If so, any suggestions where I can get a new or nearly-new set of
> 9sp levers for a sensible price? I don't want a set that have been
> heavily used.
>
> 3. Should I just bite the bullet and switch to the 10sp levers so that
> next time one breaks I don't have to worry about finding 9sp levers
> (which by then will presumably be unobtainable)?
>
> 4. On the grounds I might have to buy a new computer, I considered
> switching to Campag Veloce 10sp levers (again with a JTek adapter) and
> Campy's Ergobrain, but I have a 12-34 cassette, and it seems like
> Ergobrain only goes up to 32T sprockets. Is this true?
>
> 5. Any other ideas? Just don't tell me that real men don't need gear
> indicators and hood-mounted buttons; I happen to like them a lot.
>
> --
> Peter Headland

My personal opinion would be for you to bite the bullet and go 10spd;
the only reson is the parts supply issues you are having will magnify
in time. You only have so many years before your cycling wains or
whatever, you might as well enjoy them as much as you can. On a value
per dollar scale consider how long your new purchases will last and
still be good compared to a car or laptop; after 5 years what's the
resale value of your car ? how much would your laptop be worth ? And
your bike, if you maintain it properly, will continue to give you many
miles and hours of enjoyment.

 

[landotter]

On Jul 15, 11:17 am, Peter Headland <[email protected]> wrote:
> It seems like my right 9sp Shimano Tiagra brake/shift lever
> ("brifter") has finally developed a terminal case of the "floppy lever
> syndrome" in which the lever doesn't pick up the cable to shift to
> lower gears. For a while, flushing with WD-40 would cure it, but never
> for very long. I might curse myself for buying the el-cheapo Tiagra
> instead of Ultegra, but my impression is that this malady can afflict
> any Shimano shift levers that get used in the rain or dust.
>
Tiagra right lever is ~100 bucks at your choice of online stores.

 

[Michael Press]

In article
<[email protected]>
,
Peter Headland <[email protected]> wrote:

> It seems like my right 9sp Shimano Tiagra brake/shift lever
> ("brifter") has finally developed a terminal case of the "floppy lever
> syndrome" in which the lever doesn't pick up the cable to shift to
> lower gears. For a while, flushing with WD-40 would cure it, but never
> for very long.

There's yer problem. WD-**** is not a lubricant, it is
glue in a penetrating vehicle. Use a real penetrating
lubricant, such as LPS-2 and get back to us.

--
Michael Press

 

[[email protected]]

On Jul 15, 12:17 pm, Peter Headland <[email protected]> wrote:
> It seems like my right 9sp Shimano Tiagra brake/shift lever
> ("brifter") has finally developed a terminal case of the "floppy lever
> syndrome" in which the lever doesn't pick up the cable to shift to
> lower gears. For a while, flushing with WD-40 would cure it, but never
> for very long. I might curse myself for buying the el-cheapo Tiagra
> instead of Ultegra, but my impression is that this malady can afflict
> any Shimano shift levers that get used in the rain or dust.
>
> Anyhow, now the question is "what to replace it with"? It seems like
> there are lots of new (swap-out) 10sp STI lever sets around for
> reasonable prices on eBay, but new 9sp is becoming rare and expensive.
> So the obvious choice seemed to be get an new or unused set of 10sp
> levers and use a JTek adapter (http://www.jtekengineering.com/
> shiftmate.htm) to adapt them to my 9sp drivetrain.
>
> Unfortunately, I am very fond of Shimano's FlightDeck, and my
> impression is that I would need a new computer and a new wiring
> harness. IOW, my 6501 FlightDeck and wiring harness won't work with
> the 10sp levers, and even if I replace the computer, the 6501 wiring
> harness won't fit the 10sp levers.
>
> 1. Am I right about the FlightDeck compatibility issues?
>
> 2. If so, any suggestions where I can get a new or nearly-new set of
> 9sp levers for a sensible price? I don't want a set that have been
> heavily used.
>
> 3. Should I just bite the bullet and switch to the 10sp levers so that
> next time one breaks I don't have to worry about finding 9sp levers
> (which by then will presumably be unobtainable)?
>
> 4. On the grounds I might have to buy a new computer, I considered
> switching to Campag Veloce 10sp levers (again with a JTek adapter) and
> Campy's Ergobrain, but I have a 12-34 cassette, and it seems like
> Ergobrain only goes up to 32T sprockets. Is this true?
>
> 5. Any other ideas? Just don't tell me that real men don't need gear
> indicators and hood-mounted buttons; I happen to like them a lot.
>
> --
> Peter Headland

There is a little philips-head screw -- the threads are maybe 8mm
long? -- its head is located near the top of the small (upshift)
lever, just under the brake lever hood -- the head of the screw faces
the back of the bike. It almost looks like it is attaching the small
lever to some part of the larger (brake) lever.

As this screw gets looser, the larger cogs start to become
unavailable. That is your warning sign to tighten it (preferably with
loctite on the threads). If it falls out, pretty soon the cable jams
inside the shifter and it is dead.

I've had two start to unscrew only when bike shops shot WD40 into the
shifting mechanism. Rattling sounds from the lever are also often a
warning sign of a loosening screw.

I have saved one shifter when the screw fell out -- I went into a
nearby bike shop and asked them if they had a dead shifter in the junk
parts pile. They did (of course! it's STI, they die all the time...),
and I cannibalized the screw. (They are short, as I mentioned, and so
they may be hard to find at a hardware store.)--Shayana Kadidal

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

On Jul 15, 10:17 am, Peter Headland <[email protected]> wrote:
> It seems like my right 9sp Shimano Tiagra brake/shift lever
> ("brifter") has finally developed a terminal case of the "floppy lever
> syndrome" in which the lever doesn't pick up the cable to shift to
> lower gears. For a while, flushing with WD-40 would cure it, but never
> for very long. I might curse myself for buying the el-cheapo Tiagra
> instead of Ultegra, but my impression is that this malady can afflict
> any Shimano shift levers that get used in the rain or dust.
>
> Anyhow, now the question is "what to replace it with"? It seems like
> there are lots of new (swap-out) 10sp STI lever sets around for
> reasonable prices on eBay, but new 9sp is becoming rare and expensive.
> So the obvious choice seemed to be get an new or unused set of 10sp
> levers and use a JTek adapter (http://www.jtekengineering.com/
> shiftmate.htm) to adapt them to my 9sp drivetrain.
>
> Unfortunately, I am very fond of Shimano's FlightDeck, and my
> impression is that I would need a new computer and a new wiring
> harness. IOW, my 6501 FlightDeck and wiring harness won't work with
> the 10sp levers, and even if I replace the computer, the 6501 wiring
> harness won't fit the 10sp levers.
>
> 1. Am I right about the FlightDeck compatibility issues?

Yes you are.
>
> 2. If so, any suggestions where I can get a new or nearly-new set of
> 9sp levers for a sensible price? I don't want a set that have been
> heavily used.

Ebay

>
> 3. Should I just bite the bullet and switch to the 10sp levers so that
> next time one breaks I don't have to worry about finding 9sp levers
> (which by then will presumably be unobtainable)?

Might look at Campagnolo..no more busted shifter syndrome(they can be
fixed).

>
> 4. On the grounds I might have to buy a new computer, I considered
> switching to Campag Veloce 10sp levers (again with a JTek adapter) and
> Campy's Ergobrain, but I have a 12-34 cassette, and it seems like
> Ergobrain only goes up to 32T sprockets. Is this true?

29t for Campagnolo.
>
> 5. Any other ideas? Just don't tell me that real men don't need gear
> indicators and hood-mounted buttons; I happen to like them a lot.
>
> --
> Peter Headland

 

[Wayne]

On Jul 15, 11:17 am, Peter Headland <[email protected]> wrote:
> It seems like my right 9sp Shimano Tiagra brake/shift lever
> ("brifter") has finally developed a terminal case of the "floppy lever
> syndrome" in which the lever doesn't pick up the cable to shift to
> lower gears. For a while, flushing with WD-40 would cure it, but never
> for very long. I might curse myself for buying the el-cheapo Tiagra
> instead of Ultegra, but my impression is that this malady can afflict
> any Shimano shift levers that get used in the rain or dust.
>
> Anyhow, now the question is "what to replace it with"? It seems like
> there are lots of new (swap-out) 10sp STI lever sets around for
> reasonable prices on eBay, but new 9sp is becoming rare and expensive.
> So the obvious choice seemed to be get an new or unused set of 10sp
> levers and use a JTek adapter (http://www.jtekengineering.com/
> shiftmate.htm) to adapt them to my 9sp drivetrain.
>
> Unfortunately, I am very fond of Shimano's FlightDeck, and my
> impression is that I would need a new computer and a new wiring
> harness. IOW, my 6501 FlightDeck and wiring harness won't work with
> the 10sp levers, and even if I replace the computer, the 6501 wiring
> harness won't fit the 10sp levers.
>
> 1. Am I right about the FlightDeck compatibility issues?
>
> 2. If so, any suggestions where I can get a new or nearly-new set of
> 9sp levers for a sensible price? I don't want a set that have been
> heavily used.
>
> 3. Should I just bite the bullet and switch to the 10sp levers so that
> next time one breaks I don't have to worry about finding 9sp levers
> (which by then will presumably be unobtainable)?
>
> 4. On the grounds I might have to buy a new computer, I considered
> switching to Campag Veloce 10sp levers (again with a JTek adapter) and
> Campy's Ergobrain, but I have a 12-34 cassette, and it seems like
> Ergobrain only goes up to 32T sprockets. Is this true?
>
> 5. Any other ideas? Just don't tell me that real men don't need gear
> indicators and hood-mounted buttons; I happen to like them a lot.
>
> --
> Peter Headland

No ergobrain option: My wifes uses 2006 Campoy Veloce 10 speed
shifters work well with Shimano 9 speed cogs and campy rear long cage
rd without Jtek. This would allow you to use Shimano Mountain cogs.
I have used it with a 9 speed Shimano chain which is ok but a slightly
narrower 10 speed Shimano chain works perfectly. I understand the
2007 version of Veloce not as good and you may need to go to Chorus to
get same functionaloity as 2006 Veloce.

If you need a ergobbrain go campy rear cogs.

If you want to upgrade to 10speed shimano rear cogs later then add
Jtek for that application. I have this on my bike and it works great.

 

[Peter Headland]

landotter wrote:
> Tiagra right lever is ~100 bucks at your choice of online stores.

My Googling skills must be inadequate - can you provide a link?

--
Peter Headland

 

[Peter Headland]

Peter Headland wrote:
> it seems like Ergobrain only goes up to 32T sprockets. Is this true?

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
> 29t for Campagnolo.

Nope - the manual says 31t:

Ingranaggi: 30 - 56

Pignoni:
9speed: 7 combinazioni memorizzate;
10speed: 5 combinazioni memorizzate;
free: 11 - 31 manualmente

My question was whether this is the true limit, or will it auto-sense
other combinations? It seems foolish for Campy to impose such tight
limits - what would be the harm of being more permissive? Plenty of
folk like a 28t chain ring, for example. What they have achieved by
this is to limit their sales (it certainly stopped me from considering
switching in the case at hand).

--
Peter Headland

 

[Jorg Lueke]

On Jul 15, 8:43 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Jul 15, 12:17 pm, Peter Headland <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > It seems like my right 9sp Shimano Tiagra brake/shift lever
> > ("brifter") has finally developed a terminal case of the "floppy lever
> > syndrome" in which the lever doesn't pick up the cable to shift to
> > lower gears. For a while, flushing with WD-40 would cure it, but never
> > for very long. I might curse myself for buying the el-cheapo Tiagra
> > instead of Ultegra, but my impression is that this malady can afflict
> > any Shimano shift levers that get used in the rain or dust.
>
> > Anyhow, now the question is "what to replace it with"? It seems like
> > there are lots of new (swap-out) 10sp STI lever sets around for
> > reasonable prices on eBay, but new 9sp is becoming rare and expensive.
> > So the obvious choice seemed to be get an new or unused set of 10sp
> > levers and use a JTek adapter (http://www.jtekengineering.com/
> > shiftmate.htm) to adapt them to my 9sp drivetrain.
>
> > Unfortunately, I am very fond of Shimano's FlightDeck, and my
> > impression is that I would need a new computer and a new wiring
> > harness. IOW, my 6501 FlightDeck and wiring harness won't work with
> > the 10sp levers, and even if I replace the computer, the 6501 wiring
> > harness won't fit the 10sp levers.
>
> > 1. Am I right about the FlightDeck compatibility issues?
>
> > 2. If so, any suggestions where I can get a new or nearly-new set of
> > 9sp levers for a sensible price? I don't want a set that have been
> > heavily used.
>
> > 3. Should I just bite the bullet and switch to the 10sp levers so that
> > next time one breaks I don't have to worry about finding 9sp levers
> > (which by then will presumably be unobtainable)?
>
> > 4. On the grounds I might have to buy a new computer, I considered
> > switching to Campag Veloce 10sp levers (again with a JTek adapter) and
> > Campy's Ergobrain, but I have a 12-34 cassette, and it seems like
> > Ergobrain only goes up to 32T sprockets. Is this true?
>
> > 5. Any other ideas? Just don't tell me that real men don't need gear
> > indicators and hood-mounted buttons; I happen to like them a lot.
>
> > --
> > Peter Headland
>
> There is a little philips-head screw -- the threads are maybe 8mm
> long? -- its head is located near the top of the small (upshift)
> lever, just under the brake lever hood -- the head of the screw faces
> the back of the bike. It almost looks like it is attaching the small
> lever to some part of the larger (brake) lever.
>
> As this screw gets looser, the larger cogs start to become
> unavailable. That is your warning sign to tighten it (preferably with
> loctite on the threads). If it falls out, pretty soon the cable jams
> inside the shifter and it is dead.
>
> I've had two start to unscrew only when bike shops shot WD40 into the
> shifting mechanism. Rattling sounds from the lever are also often a
> warning sign of a loosening screw.
>
> I have saved one shifter when the screw fell out -- I went into a
> nearby bike shop and asked them if they had a dead shifter in the junk
> parts pile. They did (of course! it's STI, they die all the time...),
> and I cannibalized the screw. (They are short, as I mentioned, and so
> they may be hard to find at a hardware store.)--Shayana Kadidal

The jammed cable and dead shifter is something I've just experienced
although I do still have that screw.
Now that the cable is jammed is there an easy way to get it out?