Reynolds Weld Lab 26/20 T-Bone, handlebar pivot

Discussion in 'Recumbent bicycles' started by Marc Webb, May 8, 2003.

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  1. Marc Webb

    Marc Webb Guest

    Hi group, Does anyone have a Reynolds Weld Lab bike with USS. My handlebar pivot has some play. How
    can the play be reduced?

    ...Marc

    e-mail: [email protected] AIM: kb1d
     
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  2. Fred C

    Fred C Guest

    I have a Dual 26 RT Wishbone but it's still the same USS so try tightening the pivot bolt (mine
    takes a 1/2 inch wrench on top and bottom) You might have to use some force to fix the top plate. If
    extreme you can add washers to the top and bottom.

    Fred C Wishbone Dual 26 RT
     
  3. Dave Is Here

    Dave Is Here Guest

    Marc My Wishbone had loose steering as you described when I purchased it used. I tightened it down
    and a month later it was loose again.

    The bearing housing had dug into the aluminum mount of the seat. I removed the seat and disassmbled
    it, regreased the bearings. I added a thin stainless steel washer on each side of the bearing to
    keep it from cutting deeper into the mount.

    Seems to have done the trick and has needed very little adjustment since.

    Be careful on sharp left turns. I have had one episode of steering reversal while turning around in
    the road. It put me down instantly leaving a nice bit of road rash. I have tipped the steering
    handles in close to my body to limit the steering lock now. Maybe your T-Bone has different geometry
    and won't react the same.

    Dave Wishbone 20/20 #102

    "Marc Webb" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
    > Hi group, Does anyone have a Reynolds Weld Lab bike with USS. My handlebar pivot has some play.
    > How can the play be reduced?
    >
    > ...Marc
    >
    > e-mail: [email protected] AIM: kb1d
     
  4. I use a faucet washer that is drilled out to obtain the right diameter. The rubber removes all of
    the play or chatter that you get from the steering rod/rod end bearing. If you are meticulous in
    fitting the washer, you should end up with absolutely no play in the steering. The manufacturers
    should adopt a similar mod for USS. There is no excuse for having any play in the steering setup for
    USS. "Fred C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > I have a Dual 26 RT Wishbone but it's still the same USS so try tightening the pivot bolt (mine
    > takes a 1/2 inch wrench on top and bottom) You might have to use some force to fix the top plate.
    > If extreme you can add
    washers
    > to the top and bottom.
    >
    > Fred C Wishbone Dual 26 RT
     
  5. Tom Sherman

    Tom Sherman Guest

    dave is here wrote:
    >
    > Marc My Wishbone had loose steering as you described when I purchased it used. I tightened it down
    > and a month later it was loose again....

    Dave,

    My Wishbone had loose steering as Marc described when I purchased it used. Coincidence? ;)

    > ... Be careful on sharp left turns. I have had one episode of steering reversal while turning
    > around in the road. It put me down instantly leaving a nice bit of road rash. I have tipped the
    > steering handles in close to my body to limit the steering lock now. Maybe your T-Bone has
    > different geometry and won't react the same....

    You must attempt a lot tighter U-turns than I ever would. I was aware that front wheel could go past
    90 degrees [1], but I never thought this would occur during riding.

    It is possible to tilt the handlebars in too much - I went for a VERY SHORT ride once
    after doing so.

    [1] As happened once when loading the bike into a hatchback.

    Tom Sherman - Various HPV's Quad Cities USA (Illinois side)
     
  6. Dave Is Here

    Dave Is Here Guest

    On my Wishbone the leverage changes dramaticlly as you steer, letting the leverage change from 1.5
    to 4.5 by the time the handlebars are turned 30° left, at about 40° the leverage ratio basicly hits
    infinity. The front wheel will change much more angle as the handlebars are moved further from
    center. The tab is mounted slightly behind the plane of the axle on my fork which may aggrevate the
    problem. Right turns are limited by the control rod interfacing the fork thus dampening sharp turns
    to the right, having the tab behind the fork centerline prevents the leverage from increasing so
    much to the right before hard interference is met.

    Keep in mind this is isnt a problem at speeds over 5 mph. it is only possible at low speeds. ...I'm
    not bitching about the design, just pointing out a limitation. I sure like the USS It really gives
    me something to hang on to when I am cranking it up. One caveat is that I like riding all bicycles,
    usually you won't find me whining about too hard a saddle or other ergometric type of problems that
    other riders seem to complain about. I generally don't ride over a 100 miles which may contribute to
    my lack of discomfort.

    I am intending on riding R.A.I.N. this year. I think I will be on my recumbent but you never know. I
    may even do it on my fixed gear. Dave

    Tom Sherman <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>... snip
    > You must attempt a lot tighter U-turns than I ever would. I was aware that front wheel could go
    > past 90 degrees [1], but I never thought this would occur during riding. snip
     
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