Richey Carbon Pro Forks



dazman

New Member
Feb 17, 2007
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Hi,

I'm installing some Richey Carbon Pro Forks on my break-away frame and was wondering if anyone else has installed these forks? they come with two securing devices - the first looks like the bottom part of the old type friction stems (some sort of friction expansion device) and the second is a double star lock.

The problem is this first thing fits but doesn't get the forks perfectly tightened with no rattle - at least with torque I'm happy applying on carbon. I'd just love to bang those star locks in, but they appear too big for the carbon. Would appreciate any advice in the absence of instructions!

Cheers,
 

alienator

Well-Known Member
Jun 10, 2004
12,596
155
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dazman said:
Hi,

I'm installing some Richey Carbon Pro Forks on my break-away frame and was wondering if anyone else has installed these forks? they come with two securing devices - the first looks like the bottom part of the old type friction stems (some sort of friction expansion device) and the second is a double star lock.

The problem is this first thing fits but doesn't get the forks perfectly tightened with no rattle - at least with torque I'm happy applying on carbon. I'd just love to bang those star locks in, but they appear too big for the carbon. Would appreciate any advice in the absence of instructions!

Cheers,

If you hate your carbon steerer, put in the star nuts. They'll very efficiently reduce its lifespan. Did you torque the stem bolts before tightening the expanding plug? If so, you shouldn't have done that.
 

dazman

New Member
Feb 17, 2007
66
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0
Hi,

It's just the compression thing doesn't work so well - before I torque the stem bolts ;-). I haven't used the star bolts but I'm just thinking it offers a better securing solution but I saw they were for alu only in subsequent searches.

I think I prefer the Cervelo solution where you glue the alloy retainer with screw inside the top 7cm of the tube and then have a decent lever for the crown cap to pull up on.


alienator said:
If you hate your carbon steerer, put in the star nuts. They'll very efficiently reduce its lifespan. Did you torque the stem bolts before tightening the expanding plug? If so, you shouldn't have done that.
 

alienator

Well-Known Member
Jun 10, 2004
12,596
155
0
dazman said:
Hi,

It's just the compression thing doesn't work so well - before I torque the stem bolts ;-). I haven't used the star bolts but I'm just thinking it offers a better securing solution but I saw they were for alu only in subsequent searches.

I think I prefer the Cervelo solution where you glue the alloy retainer with screw inside the top 7cm of the tube and then have a decent lever for the crown cap to pull up on.

There are a couple things that could be bunging up your process. First with the stem in place, there should be 2-3mm of space between the top of the stem and the top of the steerer. That is, the top of the steerer should be
2-3mm BELOW the top of the steerer clamp on the stem. This is most often the reason folks can't get their headsets preloaded correctly.

If that gap exists, then make sure the inside of the steerer is clean and free of grease. Don't be afraid to torque the expander bolt. Reynolds, for instance, recommends a torque of about 70 in-lbs on their expander bolt.

FWIW, star fangled nuts are not an option for CF steerers because said nuts will ruin the steerer possibly causing you to bite asphalt. Expander plugs are proven and work great. Hell, once the HS bearings are preloaded and the steerer clamp on the stem is torqued, you don't really need the expander. A lot of folks take them out and have zero issues.
 

dazman

New Member
Feb 17, 2007
66
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0
Thanks for the tips. I had cut the fork a little below the stem top so that was okay. I just cranked away in the end and it worked great. I think after crushing an expensive carbon seat-post in the past I was overly worried!

alienator said:
There are a couple things that could be bunging up your process. First with the stem in place, there should be 2-3mm of space between the top of the stem and the top of the steerer. That is, the top of the steerer should be
2-3mm BELOW the top of the steerer clamp on the stem. This is most often the reason folks can't get their headsets preloaded correctly.

If that gap exists, then make sure the inside of the steerer is clean and free of grease. Don't be afraid to torque the expander bolt. Reynolds, for instance, recommends a torque of about 70 in-lbs on their expander bolt.

FWIW, star fangled nuts are not an option for CF steerers because said nuts will ruin the steerer possibly causing you to bite asphalt. Expander plugs are proven and work great. Hell, once the HS bearings are preloaded and the steerer clamp on the stem is torqued, you don't really need the expander. A lot of folks take them out and have zero issues.
 

[email protected]

New Member
Dec 30, 2007
2,111
4
0
dazman said:
Hi,

I'm installing some Richey Carbon Pro Forks on my break-away frame and was wondering if anyone else has installed these forks? they come with two securing devices - the first looks like the bottom part of the old type friction stems (some sort of friction expansion device) and the second is a double star lock.

The problem is this first thing fits but doesn't get the forks perfectly tightened with no rattle - at least with torque I'm happy applying on carbon. I'd just love to bang those star locks in, but they appear too big for the carbon. Would appreciate any advice in the absence of instructions!

Cheers,

First, DO NOT slam a star nut into a carbon steerer-BAD. The other thing should secure into the end of the steerer with a 8mm allen(I think, I'm at home) and then the top cap bolt into that to adjust the headset.
 

[email protected]

New Member
Dec 30, 2007
2,111
4
0
alienator said:
There are a couple things that could be bunging up your process. First with the stem in place, there should be 2-3mm of space between the top of the stem and the top of the steerer. That is, the top of the steerer should be
2-3mm BELOW the top of the steerer clamp on the stem. This is most often the reason folks can't get their headsets preloaded correctly.

If that gap exists, then make sure the inside of the steerer is clean and free of grease. Don't be afraid to torque the expander bolt. Reynolds, for instance, recommends a torque of about 70 in-lbs on their expander bolt.

FWIW, star fangled nuts are not an option for CF steerers because said nuts will ruin the steerer possibly causing you to bite asphalt. Expander plugs are proven and work great. Hell, once the HS bearings are preloaded and the steerer clamp on the stem is torqued, you don't really need the expander. A lot of folks take them out and have zero issues.

Just a suggestion. I cut the steerer so that just a little, maybe 1-2mm, protrude past the top of the stem clamp and then add 1-5mm spacer on top of the stem, so that the entire carbon steerer is past the top stem tightening bolt, to prevent crushing the end of the carbon steerer. Generally not necessary is you torque the stem properly(5nm), but some really reef on the stem clamp.
 

alienator

Well-Known Member
Jun 10, 2004
12,596
155
0
Just a suggestion. I cut the steerer so that just a little, maybe 1-2mm, protrude past the top of the stem clamp and then add 1-5mm spacer on top of the stem, so that the entire carbon steerer is past the top stem tightening bolt, to prevent crushing the end of the carbon steerer. Generally not necessary is you torque the stem properly(5nm), but some really reef on the stem clamp.

Yup. It also allows you to vary your stem height a bit more based on condition throught the season.
 

PeterF

New Member
Sep 13, 2004
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Just a suggestion. I cut the steerer so that just a little, maybe 1-2mm, protrude past the top of the stem clamp and then add 1-5mm spacer on top of the stem, so that the entire carbon steerer is past the top stem tightening bolt, to prevent crushing the end of the carbon steerer. Generally not necessary is you torque the stem properly(5nm), but some really reef on the stem clamp.
For most of my bikes, I like having 5mm above the stem, however on my Cannondale, they advise that you don't use spacers above the stem since with their SI system, the top cap is actually a sleeve that supports the steerer. Also, some of their all-carbon forks use a special starnut (the inside of the steerer is shaped to accomodate this), that works in conjunction twith the top cap. I have also had a couple Reynolds forks, and find their bunge works perfectly fine.