Riding in the rain

[warrwych]

Vincent Patrick wrote:
> Peter Signorini wrote:
> > My BBB booties have worked quite well at keeping me dry, on the few times
> > I've had to use them. They're still quite new. I use them in conjunction
> > with mudguards and a front mudflap, so there is virtually no road spray.
> > This is essential to keep your feet dry, a big proportion of any drenching
> > comes from the wet road surface without mudguards.
>
> Hi Peter,
>
> Do you have any recommendations or suggestions on types of mudguards and
> mudflaps for a road bike? My bike doesn't have any nice fixing points, so
> I was wondering about a rear mudguard attached to the seat post.

Zefal make a good clip-on mudflap that you can pop onto most roadies
pretty easily - not a bad thing for wet weather commuting. they're
very ugly .. but they work. I'm sure other rebranding companies do the
same sort of thing (most likely, the *same* thing ...)

You can put front ones on with cableties to your downtube, but need to
be careful with cable routing.

how do they go on hardtail mtbs?

 

[Donga]

warrwych wrote:
> how do they go on hardtail mtbs?

I have one that clips around my seatpost with a screw. Can't remember
if it's Zefal or something else. Have had it for a few years and given
it pretty hard wear. Main effect is less striping on my back/backpack
and the contents stay drier. Go for it.

Donga

 

[warrwych]

warrwych wrote:
> how do they go on hardtail mtbs?

I have one that clips around my seatpost with a screw. Can't remember
if it's Zefal or something else. Have had it for a few years and given
it pretty hard wear. Main effect is less striping on my back/backpack
and the contents stay drier. Go for it.

Donga

thanks for the feedback Donga. I bought a set(not zefal) 18mths ago and thought they would be ok. They didn't fit!! So I gave 'em away. Been wary of getting any other guards since..

 

[Donga]

warrwych wrote:
> thanks for the feedback Donga. I bought a set(not zefal) 18mths ago and
> thought they would be ok. They didn't fit!! So I gave 'em away. Been
> wary of getting any other guards since..
>
The one I have is made for a 31.8 mm diameter post, but I have a 27.2
mm post. It has a clamp that goes around the post and is tightened down
with a screw, then you screw the guard/fender onto a flange. They
supplied several shims, so it works fine, or a chopped up inner tube
would do the trick.

Years ago I had one that just clipped around the seat tube and seat
stays, so fit was important. I secured it with some light wire, but
these days cable ties absolve all such sins.

Donga

 

[Theo Bekkers]

"Peter Signorini" wrote
> "Theo Bekkers" wrote:
> >
> > Just ignore the rain. I used to hate the rain, then I discovered
that
> > my skin is waterproof and only my clothing got wet. It didn't
matter
> > any more after that.
>
> This principle is indeed very correct. Unfortunately reality creeps
in - it
> doesn't work in a Melbourne winter with a morning temp of 7
degrees, cold
> SW wind and stream showers; where the clothing you're riding in is
also
> inteneded to be your work clothing. This is where a damn good
breathable
> jacket, overpants, waterproof booties used with mudguards are
essential
> equipment. It can be done, you can ride and enjoy it, and get to
work dry
> (reasonably so, you don't sweat much in 7 degrees)

Would you believe it often gets colder than 7º in Perth in winter
also. I also wore a Paddy Palin Gore-Tex rainjacket and booties. No
way that was going to keep me from getting soaking wet below the
waist, and more than damp above. I never wore my work clothes on my
commute. When it rains in Perth, it rains, unlike Melbourne. 150mm of
water in the gutter is common, making even the first metre of roadway
unusable. A three piece suit would not have added to the enjoyment of
the ride.

Theo

 

[Friday]

Theo Bekkers wrote:
> "Peter Signorini" wrote
>
>>"Theo Bekkers" wrote:
>>
>>>Just ignore the rain. I used to hate the rain, then I discovered
>
> that
>
>>>my skin is waterproof and only my clothing got wet. It didn't
>
> matter
>
>>>any more after that.
>>
>>This principle is indeed very correct. Unfortunately reality creeps
>
> in - it
>
>>doesn't work in a Melbourne winter with a morning temp of 7
>
> degrees, cold
>
>>SW wind and stream showers; where the clothing you're riding in is
>
> also
>
>>inteneded to be your work clothing. This is where a damn good
>
> breathable
>
>>jacket, overpants, waterproof booties used with mudguards are
>
> essential
>
>>equipment. It can be done, you can ride and enjoy it, and get to
>
> work dry
>
>>(reasonably so, you don't sweat much in 7 degrees)
>
>
> Would you believe it often gets colder than 7º in Perth in winter
> also. I also wore a Paddy Palin Gore-Tex rainjacket and booties. No
> way that was going to keep me from getting soaking wet below the
> waist, and more than damp above. I never wore my work clothes on my
> commute. When it rains in Perth, it rains, unlike Melbourne. 150mm of
> water in the gutter is common, making even the first metre of roadway
> unusable. A three piece suit would not have added to the enjoyment of
> the ride.
>
> Theo
>
>

I live 200 km south of perth and I've been commuting 20km to and from
work through the bush on a mountain bike. This year I've already ridden
in 2 degrees celcius in the dark, the last few rides have been below 5
degrees with the coldest last year at minus 4. I wear long bibs, two
long sleeved jerseys and a light rainproof top to keep the wind out. I
have Sidi Storm boots and Roeckl windstopper gloves. An Asumi head band
keeps the ears warm. My toes still get a bit cold sometimes so I need
some large booties to go over the top.

Friday

 

[Vincent Patrick]

Friday wrote:

> Theo Bekkers wrote:
>> "Peter Signorini" wrote
>>
>>>"Theo Bekkers" wrote:
>>>
>>>>Just ignore the rain. I used to hate the rain, then I discovered
>>
>> that
>>
>>>>my skin is waterproof and only my clothing got wet. It didn't
>>
>> matter
>>
>>>>any more after that.
>>>
>>>This principle is indeed very correct. Unfortunately reality creeps
>>
>> in - it
>>
>>>doesn't work in a Melbourne winter with a morning temp of 7
>>
>> degrees, cold
>>
>>>SW wind and stream showers; where the clothing you're riding in is
>>
>> also
>>
>>>inteneded to be your work clothing. This is where a damn good
>>
>> breathable
>>
>>>jacket, overpants, waterproof booties used with mudguards are
>>
>> essential
>>
>>>equipment. It can be done, you can ride and enjoy it, and get to
>>
>> work dry
>>
>>>(reasonably so, you don't sweat much in 7 degrees)
>>
>>
>> Would you believe it often gets colder than 7º in Perth in winter
>> also. I also wore a Paddy Palin Gore-Tex rainjacket and booties. No
>> way that was going to keep me from getting soaking wet below the
>> waist, and more than damp above. I never wore my work clothes on my
>> commute. When it rains in Perth, it rains, unlike Melbourne. 150mm of
>> water in the gutter is common, making even the first metre of roadway
>> unusable. A three piece suit would not have added to the enjoyment of
>> the ride.
>>
>> Theo
>>
>>
>
> I live 200 km south of perth and I've been commuting 20km to and from
> work through the bush on a mountain bike. This year I've already ridden
> in 2 degrees celcius in the dark, the last few rides have been below 5
> degrees with the coldest last year at minus 4. I wear long bibs, two
> long sleeved jerseys and a light rainproof top to keep the wind out. I
> have Sidi Storm boots and Roeckl windstopper gloves. An Asumi head band
> keeps the ears warm. My toes still get a bit cold sometimes so I need
> some large booties to go over the top.
>
> Friday

Brrr... Sounds like somewhere near Collie.

May I ask - even when it is freezing don't you get hot after a while? The
(I would guess hilly) 20 km ride on a mountain bike must be hard work. It
makes my half hour Perth commuting at an occasional 5 deg C seem a bit too
easy.

Cheers,

Vince

 

[Friday]

Vincent Patrick wrote:
> Friday wrote:
>
>
>>Theo Bekkers wrote:
>>
>>>"Peter Signorini" wrote
>>>
>>>
>>>>"Theo Bekkers" wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Just ignore the rain. I used to hate the rain, then I discovered
>>>
>>>that
>>>
>>>
>>>>>my skin is waterproof and only my clothing got wet. It didn't
>>>
>>>matter
>>>
>>>
>>>>>any more after that.
>>>>
>>>>This principle is indeed very correct. Unfortunately reality creeps
>>>
>>>in - it
>>>
>>>
>>>>doesn't work in a Melbourne winter with a morning temp of 7
>>>
>>>degrees, cold
>>>
>>>
>>>>SW wind and stream showers; where the clothing you're riding in is
>>>
>>>also
>>>
>>>
>>>>inteneded to be your work clothing. This is where a damn good
>>>
>>>breathable
>>>
>>>
>>>>jacket, overpants, waterproof booties used with mudguards are
>>>
>>>essential
>>>
>>>
>>>>equipment. It can be done, you can ride and enjoy it, and get to
>>>
>>>work dry
>>>
>>>
>>>>(reasonably so, you don't sweat much in 7 degrees)
>>>
>>>
>>>Would you believe it often gets colder than 7º in Perth in winter
>>>also. I also wore a Paddy Palin Gore-Tex rainjacket and booties. No
>>>way that was going to keep me from getting soaking wet below the
>>>waist, and more than damp above. I never wore my work clothes on my
>>>commute. When it rains in Perth, it rains, unlike Melbourne. 150mm of
>>>water in the gutter is common, making even the first metre of roadway
>>>unusable. A three piece suit would not have added to the enjoyment of
>>>the ride.
>>>
>>>Theo
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I live 200 km south of perth and I've been commuting 20km to and from
>>work through the bush on a mountain bike. This year I've already ridden
>>in 2 degrees celcius in the dark, the last few rides have been below 5
>>degrees with the coldest last year at minus 4. I wear long bibs, two
>>long sleeved jerseys and a light rainproof top to keep the wind out. I
>>have Sidi Storm boots and Roeckl windstopper gloves. An Asumi head band
>>keeps the ears warm. My toes still get a bit cold sometimes so I need
>>some large booties to go over the top.
>>
>>Friday
>
>
> Brrr... Sounds like somewhere near Collie.
>
> May I ask - even when it is freezing don't you get hot after a while? The
> (I would guess hilly) 20 km ride on a mountain bike must be hard work. It
> makes my half hour Perth commuting at an occasional 5 deg C seem a bit too
> easy.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Vince
>
>

I'm usually soaking in sweat by the time I get to work. Luckily I have
showers at work plus a washing machine and drier so I have lovely clean
clothes for the trip home.

 

[ProfTournesol]

On Sun, 14 May 2006 01:33:32 +0000, Zebee Johnstone wrote:

> I have noticed that it's way easier to slide the back end of the bent
> in the wet! Especially walking it down that bloody Bridge ramp.

Try riding up it in the wet. That's a slide fest if ever there was one.

> Not enough for me to get energetic about changing tyres though.

Tyres on bikes really aren't going to make that much difference. A knobby
sucks on road, but anything vaguely slick will be more or less the same.
It may be worth having a touring style tyre with thicker tread just to be
a bit more puncture resistant, but the hassle of changing tyres probably
outweighs the benefits.

tread on bike tyres makes almost no difference because they are so narrow. Compound makes a big difference - some compounds are stickier in the wet.

The biggest single thing you could do to your bike to stay dry is to add mudguards.

 

[Random Data]

On Sun, 21 May 2006 08:13:08 +1000, ProfTournesol wrote:

> tread on bike tyres makes almost no difference because they are so
> narrow.

<obPedant> On road tyres. </Pedant>. While there are claims they don't do
much on MTBs, I've ridden similar profile tyres with and without knobs and
found the knobbies better in loose stuff. However, given this thread is
primarily about road riding, I'll agree that tread is cosmetic in that
case.

--
Dave Hughes | [email protected]
If you can do a job with power tools, then
that's the right way to do it. - Joe Zeff

 

[ProfTournesol]

On Sun, 21 May 2006 08:13:08 +1000, ProfTournesol wrote:

> tread on bike tyres makes almost no difference because they are so
> narrow.

<obPedant> On road tyres. </Pedant>. While there are claims they don't do
much on MTBs, I've ridden similar profile tyres with and without knobs and
found the knobbies better in loose stuff. However, given this thread is
primarily about road riding, I'll agree that tread is cosmetic in that
case.

--
Dave Hughes | [email protected]
If you can do a job with power tools, then
that's the right way to do it. - Joe Zeff

tread IS important off-road, as is tyre pressure, but on a road bike, compound, construction and tyre pressure are more important than tread pattern.

 

[Vincent Patrick]

Random Data wrote:

> On Sun, 21 May 2006 08:13:08 +1000, ProfTournesol wrote:
>
>> tread on bike tyres makes almost no difference because they are so
>> narrow.
>
> <obPedant> On road tyres. </Pedant>. While there are claims they don't do
> much on MTBs, I've ridden similar profile tyres with and without knobs and
> found the knobbies better in loose stuff. However, given this thread is
> primarily about road riding, I'll agree that tread is cosmetic in that
> case.

I've heard that knobby tyres are actually worse for riding on bitumen in the
wet than slicks. Is that what you have found in your experience?

Cheers,

Vince

 

[Random Data]

On Sun, 21 May 2006 10:18:49 +0800, Vincent Patrick wrote:

> I've heard that knobby tyres are actually worse for riding on bitumen in the
> wet than slicks. Is that what you have found in your experience?

Worse full stop. The knobs deform, so you get a bit of movement you don't
get with slicks. The same happens on hard rocks, but it's not too bad if
you're aware of it. The extra traction on sand and other loose stuff is
worth it.

--
Dave Hughes | [email protected]
Against boredom, the Gods themselves struggle in vain.
- Nietzche