Rim Brakes Less Effective



lectraplayer

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May 11, 2014
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I mostly ride cheap bikes, and mine has rim brakes. I mostly use the rear. However, my front (which is still cromed over unlike my rear) is noisy and doesn't stop nearly as well as my rear. Pads are near full thickness. What makes this front rim not work so well?
 
Less friction. Chrome-plated steel against rubber brake blocks just has a lower coefficient of friction than machined aluminum.
 
Chrome plated steel (front) is less frictionous than chrome plated steel (rear)? Should I still not be able to plow with my front wheel? I could when I rode it a lot last year. Now I can't.
 
lectraplayer said:
Chrome plated steel (front) is less frictionous than chrome plated steel (rear)? Should I still not be able to plow with my front wheel? I could when I rode it a lot last year. Now I can't.
In the original post it sounds like the chrome has been worn away at the rear, which would readily explain why rear braking is better. Now you're saying that the front brake has deteriorated. First fix is to clean rim and sand pads. 2nd is to check cables and routing. Smooth bends but otherwise as short as possible.
 
I mentioned the front brake problem in the original post. What would I use on the front rim? Soap and water? Sandpaper? I have already messed with the cables and everything and the brake equipment is doing what it needs to. It just "sings" and doesn't put up the friction it once did. Sent from my ALCATEL ONE TOUCH Fierce using Tapatalk
 
Last time, I used a Brillo pad and rubbing alcohol. But you can try pretty much anything that evaporates. Window cleaner, bathroom descaler has worked out too.
Pull the pads off and sand/file them down to fresh surface as well.
 
Originally Posted by lectraplayer

I mentioned the front brake problem in the original post. What would I use on the front rim? Soap and water? Sandpaper?

I have already messed with the cables and everything and the brake equipment is doing what it needs to. It just "sings" and doesn't put up the friction it once did.
FWIW. I would probably use a "nylon" scrubbing pad on the rims instead of steel wool ...

'I' would only use sandpaper or emery cloth on the pads ...

  • but, while dabac is correct that the pads should be removed from the bike to expedite renewing the contact surface, I would probably remove the wheel(s) & sand the contact surface of the brake pads with some 120-to-150 grit sandpaper without bothering to remove them from YOUR bike ...
  • and then, wipe any grit off the pads with a damp paper towel before re-installing the wheel(s)

BTW. When the time comes to replace the pads, you may want to consider "sintered" brake pads ... essentially, the sintered pad's composition is akin to the difference between an "ink" eraser & a "pencil" eraser.
 
What will the sintered pads do differently? Also, how would felt, cork, and leather compare to a "standard" pad? Sent from my ALCATEL ONE TOUCH Fierce using Tapatalk
 
Originally Posted by lectraplayer

What will the sintered pads do differently? Also, how would felt, cork, and leather compare to a "standard" pad?
The sintered rubber brake pads will grip-and/or-grab a steel rim more effectively than a comparatively plain rubber compound brake pad can ...

Cork & leather brake pads will allow you to drift through stop signs/lights against your will ...
 
So cork and leather (if used) would be for a drag brake on the rear, and not for stopping, right? Sent from my ALCATEL ONE TOUCH Fierce using Tapatalk
 
Originally Posted by lectraplayer

So cork and leather (if used) would be for a drag brake on the rear, and not for stopping, right?
Yeah ... that would be MY assessment ... but, a "drag brake" on a rim isn't a very good idea due to the heat that is generated ...

BTW. YOU may want to think about having your rear rim re-laced onto a Coaster Brake hub.
 
Originally Posted by lectraplayer

Would a coaster brake work on a 6 speed (rear) mountain bike?
A coaster brake is 'okay' for street use ...

If I had a MTB which had a 6-speed cluster (?!?) AND a coaster brake then I am sure that I would also want a rim brake for off-pavement riding because a coaster brake is more prone to fading than other types of brakes ...

If it is only for street use, then why not?
 
I have a good rear rim brake, though I may consider a coaster on another build. It still sometimes takes me forever to stop as I plow through my front brake and I have the rear locked up. Wouldn't the derailer fork up the backpedal to engage the coaster brake?
 
lectraplayer said:
I have a good rear rim brake, though I may consider a coaster on another build. It still sometimes takes me forever to stop as I plow through my front brake and I have the rear locked up. Wouldn't the derailer fork up the backpedal to engage the coaster brake?
Yep, can't use a coaster brake together with derailer gears. You can get internally geared hubs with coaster brakes though. Although I don't think I've ever heard of a 6-speed IGH.
 
Update: after changing parts to chase another problem down, I found out what is killing my brakes. These pads must be a crappy compound. Time for pads...
 
lectraplayer said:
Update: after changing parts to chase another problem down, I found out what is killing my brakes. These pads must be a crappy compound. Time for pads...
Look no further: (Swissstop GXP) :D

If you put them on anything good-ish (like Shimano Ultegra), or if you use V-brake pads they will probably be scary-powerful. :D

swissstop-pads-flash-evo-shimano-blue-alloy-rims.jpg