Road bicycle components - advice needed

  • Thread starter Borrall Wonnell
  • Start date



B

Borrall Wonnell

Guest
Hi all,

I am about to purchase a road bike, after riding a loaner for the past
season. I (think) I have narrowed the field down to two bikes.

These bikes are from the same manufacturer and are *IDENTICAL* with
the following exceptions:

Bike A Bike B
======== ========
Frame: Composite Aluminum
Cranks: Shimano Ultegra 39/53T TruVativ Roleur GXP 36/50T
BB: Shimano Ultegra TruVativ Giga X Drive
Wheels: Shimano R550 Formula Xero XSR-1
Saddle: Titanium rails Manganese rails


Price difference is approx. $550 US. Apart from a composite frame, is
there much difference between the components? The rest of the bike(s)
componentry is composed of 10-speed Ultegra.

(Just about) Any feedback would be appreciated!! Bonus points for
those who spot the manufacturer.

Cheers,
Dave
 
"Borrall Wonnell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| Hi all,
|
| I am about to purchase a road bike, after riding a loaner for the past
| season. I (think) I have narrowed the field down to two bikes.
|
| These bikes are from the same manufacturer and are *IDENTICAL* with
| the following exceptions:
|
| Bike A Bike B
| ======== ========
| Frame: Composite Aluminum
| Cranks: Shimano Ultegra 39/53T TruVativ Roleur GXP 36/50T
| BB: Shimano Ultegra TruVativ Giga X Drive
| Wheels: Shimano R550 Formula Xero XSR-1
| Saddle: Titanium rails Manganese rails
|
|
| Price difference is approx. $550 US. Apart from a composite frame, is
| there much difference between the components? The rest of the bike(s)
| componentry is composed of 10-speed Ultegra.
|
| (Just about) Any feedback would be appreciated!! Bonus points for
| those who spot the manufacturer.

My bet is the bikes are from Giant. My personal choice would be bike A,
but it's not going to be my bike.

The most important differences are:
- Crankset: 'standard' versuses compact.

Then:
- Wheels: Don't know about the Formula wheels, so I'd go with the known
quantity in the Shimano wheels

Least important: Saddle. Since many/most people replace the saddle on
their bike, it doesn't matter what saddle it comes with. None of the
bikes I have bought get to keep their original saddles

So, it comes down to the kind of rider you are and the type of roads you
ride. Is it flat where you live? Are you a slower, recreational rider?
Will you be riding in 20+MPH pacelines with some weekend warriors?

If you have lots of hills, are a recreational rider, then the compact
crankset may be fore you. If you consider yourself 'Mr. Hammer', them
maybe the 53/39

My 2 cents
 
[email protected] (Borrall Wonnell) writes:

> Hi all,
>
> I am about to purchase a road bike, after riding a loaner for the past
> season. I (think) I have narrowed the field down to two bikes.
>
> These bikes are from the same manufacturer and are *IDENTICAL* with
> the following exceptions:


So, other than the frames, wheels, and drivetrain they are identical?
 
Jim Smith wrote:
> [email protected] (Borrall Wonnell) writes:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I am about to purchase a road bike, after riding a loaner for the
>> past season. I (think) I have narrowed the field down to two bikes.
>>
>> These bikes are from the same manufacturer and are *IDENTICAL* with
>> the following exceptions:

>
> So, other than the frames, wheels, and drivetrain they are identical?


You forgot the saddle.

Bill "and tires, too, most likely" S.
 
> My bet is the bikes are from Giant. My personal choice would be bike
> A, but it's not going to be my bike.


The Giant OCR is going to have longer chainstays, and will have a more of a
touring geometry.

The Giant TCR series is for road racing.

Original poster, what is your intended usage?
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
[email protected] (Borrall Wonnell) writes:

>Hi all,


>I am about to purchase a road bike, after riding a loaner for the past
>season. I (think) I have narrowed the field down to two bikes.


>These bikes are from the same manufacturer and are *IDENTICAL* with
>the following exceptions:


> Bike A Bike B
> ======== ========
>Frame: Composite Aluminum


If you plan to keep the bike for the long term, buy the bike with the
frameset with the best ride. The main things influencing ride are
frameset materials, and overall weight. The difference between a 18
lbs and 20 lbs bike is pretty trivial in the big scheme of things.

On the other hand, if you buy a composite frame, by definition you
aren't going to keep the bike long term (they don't last more than a
decade, then they simply fall apart), so there you have it.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA
 
"Donald Gillies" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] (Borrall Wonnell) writes:
>
> <SNIP>


> On the other hand, if you buy a composite frame, by definition you
> aren't going to keep the bike long term (they don't last more than a
> decade, then they simply fall apart), so there you have it.


Wow! I didn't know that. Where can I find more concerning composite frames
having a maximum useful life of ten years? Does it matter how many miles
you ride per year, or is the age the limiting factor?
 
"Bill Sornson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jim Smith wrote:
> > [email protected] (Borrall Wonnell) writes:
> >
> >> Hi all,
> >>
> >> I am about to purchase a road bike, after riding a loaner

for the
> >> past season. I (think) I have narrowed the field down to

two bikes.
> >>
> >> These bikes are from the same manufacturer and are

*IDENTICAL* with
> >> the following exceptions:

> >
> > So, other than the frames, wheels, and drivetrain they are

identical?
>
> You forgot the saddle.
>
> Bill "and tires, too, most likely" S.


What about the bar tape? Do they both have chain stay
protectors? -- Jay Beattie.
 
I appreciate the comments so far! Here is some additional
information....

I live in a relatively hilly area with some short steep climbs but
mostly gradual slopes. I am not sure of the average grade, but when
motivated I can power through the hills; endurance is the limiting
factor (which I hope to improve with a new bike!)

The intended use will be training/racing, with the emphasis on
training/group rides. Most runs will probably be in the 20-30 mile
range, but I expect to occasionally ride longer distances (40-60
miles). Average speed (right now) is approx. 18MPH, but I expect that
I will quickly be able to fit in with the 20+MPH crowd.

The comment about carbon fiber giving out in 10 years does scare me a
little bit. Several people have indicated that I should buy the best
bicycle I can afford, as it will last a *long* time...but perhaps this
is not true? I don't expect that there will be a significant weight
difference between the two bikes. And yes, they are Giant.

I want to buy a good bicycle now, so that I am not itching for a
better one in 2 years. Other brands are not on the menu simply due to
availability/pricing in my neck of the woods.

Cheers,
Dave
 
"RWM" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Donald Gillies" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > [email protected] (Borrall Wonnell) writes:
> >
> > <SNIP>

>
> > On the other hand, if you buy a composite frame, by definition you
> > aren't going to keep the bike long term (they don't last more than a
> > decade, then they simply fall apart), so there you have it.

>
> Wow! I didn't know that. Where can I find more concerning composite frames
> having a maximum useful life of ten years? Does it matter how many miles
> you ride per year, or is the age the limiting factor?


A bit of an oversimplification. Early composite frames were held
together with metal, usually aluminum, lugs and many of those died an
early death due to corrosion when the liner in the metal was
insuffient, the metal and composite came into contact, and viola! the
tubes more or less disintegrated at the ends.

More modern composites are glued together with composite lugs, so less
of a problem with that type of corrosion. But the composite does
degrade under UV, grease and solvents can lead to breakdown. And any
crack in the matrix and lead to sudden and sometimes catastrophic
failure.

With all the various problems with composite, one would expect that
the average lifespan of a composite frame would be less than the
average for a metal frame. But that is supposition, since I do not
think anyone has hard data.

- rick 'who just had his 17 year old steel frame refinished, expecting
another 17 years of service, at least'
 
On 7 Oct 2004 11:01:44 -0700, [email protected] (Rick
Warner) wrote:

>"RWM" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> "Donald Gillies" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > [email protected] (Borrall Wonnell) writes:
>> >
>> > <SNIP>

>>
>> > On the other hand, if you buy a composite frame, by definition you
>> > aren't going to keep the bike long term (they don't last more than a
>> > decade, then they simply fall apart), so there you have it.

>>
>> Wow! I didn't know that. Where can I find more concerning composite frames
>> having a maximum useful life of ten years? Does it matter how many miles
>> you ride per year, or is the age the limiting factor?

>
>A bit of an oversimplification. Early composite frames were held
>together with metal, usually aluminum, lugs and many of those died an
>early death due to corrosion when the liner in the metal was
>insuffient, the metal and composite came into contact, and viola! the
>tubes more or less disintegrated at the ends.
>
>More modern composites are glued together with composite lugs, so less
>of a problem with that type of corrosion. But the composite does
>degrade under UV, grease and solvents can lead to breakdown. And any
>crack in the matrix and lead to sudden and sometimes catastrophic
>failure.
>
>With all the various problems with composite, one would expect that
>the average lifespan of a composite frame would be less than the
>average for a metal frame. But that is supposition, since I do not
>think anyone has hard data.
>
>- rick 'who just had his 17 year old steel frame refinished, expecting
>another 17 years of service, at least'


Dear Rick,

My favorite technical source addresses the question
indirectly in an episode set in the future:

Bart: [rings bell] Flanders is a soft touch. He'll give us
the money for sure.

[Ned answers the door. He's wearing dark glasses and
carrying a cane]

Ned: Jesus? Is that you?

Ralph: Mr. Flanders, you're blinded-ded!

Ned: Oh, yeah. I never should have had that trendy laser
surgery. It was great at first but, you know, at the
ten-year mark your eyes fall out.

http://www.snpp.com/episodes/BABF13

Carl Fogel
 
On 6 Oct 2004 17:14:43 -0700, [email protected] (Donald Gillies)
wrote:

>If you plan to keep the bike for the long term, buy the bike with the
>frameset with the best ride. The main things influencing ride are
>frameset materials, and overall weight.


Fortunately advice here is free. "You get what you pay for!"


jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3
 

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