Road bike for a fat guy



H

Hud

Guest
I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
before. Any bike suggestions?
 
On Sep 28, 3:57 pm, "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
> willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
> before. Any bike suggestions?


If you're not racing, a cyclocross bike is great for clydesdales as
the wheels are strong and the brakes are powerful. If you get a
wannabe crosser like a Bianchi Volpe, you'll get provisions for
mounting mudguards and riding all winter. Mount up some fast 28mm
tires and have fun. If you want something for longer miles but aren't
concerned about nippy handling, even a touring bike could be a
thought. Test ride and see what you like.

FWIW, you can ride most any road bike if you really want to, if the
wheels are up to snuff--but why ride a machine that only does one
thing? I mean, if the racy looks are going to get you all amped--I can
understand that, but if you feel that it's too precious, then you
won't use it much either. ;-)
 
"Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
> willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
> before. Any bike suggestions?


I weighed more than you when I got my Specialized Sequioa Expert. I do
suggest wheels with no less than 32 spokes and tires on the order of 25 or
28 mm, however. You may want a less aggressive geometry (drop handlebars at
saddle height, for example), too, depending on your age, goals, and the
amount time you have to train.
 
"Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
> willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
> before. Any bike suggestions?


Yes. Since saving a few pounds on a bike isn't really a concern when you
weigh 245 pounds(no offense), let me point you toward the Surly Cross Check
complete bike offered by any bike shop who deals with Quality Bicycle
products. It's priced at just about a thousand dollars, has a decent
component spec, a sturdy steel frame, sturdy wheels, and fat tires.

Mike
 
Gooserider <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
>> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
>> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
>> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
>> willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
>> before. Any bike suggestions?

>
> Yes. Since saving a few pounds on a bike isn't really a concern when you
> weigh 245 pounds(no offense), let me point you toward the Surly Cross Check
> complete bike offered by any bike shop who deals with Quality Bicycle
> products. It's priced at just about a thousand dollars, has a decent
> component spec, a sturdy steel frame, sturdy wheels, and fat tires.


Seconded. It's done well by me from 240 lbs down. The wheels did end
up getting trashed, but that was from collisions not riding as such.
Surly is good about their warranty as well.

--
Dane Buson - [email protected]
The church is near but the road is icy; the bar is far away but I will
walk carefully.
-- Russian Proverb
 
On Sep 28, 9:57 pm, "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
> willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
> before. Any bike suggestions?


At 6' 5" and 225 lbs plus laptop and work gear the Trek Pilot has
worked well for this year. Going on 3000 miles now.
 
"Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
> willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
> before. Any bike suggestions?

First I would ask, what are you looking for in a road bike that you don't
have on your hybrid?

a) Drop handlebar for better aerodyanmics? Unless your 245 comes mostly
from height not girth, you may not be very comfortable with the now
typically very low bar position of a road racing bike.

b) Better components? You could upgrade your current bike.

c) You probably don't care if the bike weighs 23 pounds instead of 17
pounds, right?

d) You probably don't want low spoke count superlight wheels or skinny
racing tires, right?

If you tell us what your goal is in upgrading, the group might be able to
give better suggestions.

BobT
 
"Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
> willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
> before. Any bike suggestions?


For what its worth I have a 2001 Volpe with over 20,000 miles on it I am
well over 220 lbs. The two biggest things I have had to do is replace the
wheels when they wore the sidewalls down from braking and a new bottom
bracket, I ride year around in Ohio and this bike has been very good to me.
It came with 36 spoke mavic wheels and 700X32 WTB alltrainasouris tires and
I have stayed with that. Havent lost any weight but man the rides I have
been on.

Jim
>
 
On Sep 28, 6:21 pm, Dane Buson <[email protected]> wrote:
> Gooserider <[email protected]> wrote:
> > "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message

>
> >> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
> >> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
> >> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
> >> willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
> >> before. Any bike suggestions?

>
> > Yes. Since saving a few pounds on a bike isn't really a concern when you
> > weigh 245 pounds(no offense), let me point you toward the Surly Cross Check
> > complete bike offered by any bike shop who deals with Quality Bicycle
> > products. It's priced at just about a thousand dollars, has a decent
> > component spec, a sturdy steel frame, sturdy wheels, and fat tires.

>
> Seconded. It's done well by me from 240 lbs down. The wheels did end
> up getting trashed, but that was from collisions not riding as such.
> Surly is good about their warranty as well.



Thirded. It's a bike any reputable LBS can order, and it's specced
terribley smart. With a change of tires or racks, ya can race it, tour
it, or just ride the dang thing.
 
On Fri, 28 Sep 2007 16:57:35 -0400, "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote:

>I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
>Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
>upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
>willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
>before. Any bike suggestions?


I weigh more than that and I have been happy with my Surly Pacer road
bike. All steel and a steel fork. Tire clearance for tires as wide as
32mm.


I have had this bike for a couple of years now and It rides well and
can handle the extra load with no problem.

I would advise you use wheels with at least 36 spokes in the rear and
32 spokes in the front and at least a 28mm tire.
 
On Sep 28, 3:57 pm, "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
> willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
> before. Any bike suggestions?


I agree that one of the keys is the wheels and tires. I'm 225# and had
wheel problems until I got my 36 spoke Ultegra/CXP-33s. I haven't even
had to touch them with a spoke wrench in over three years. You'll need
a bike with clearances for them. I've got a Lemond cyclocross, but a
lot of touring bikes would probably work, too.

Smokey
 
On Sep 28, 6:30 pm, "BobT" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
> > Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
> > upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
> > willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
> > before. Any bike suggestions?

>
> First I would ask, what are you looking for in a road bike that you don't
> have on your hybrid?
>
> a) Drop handlebar for better aerodyanmics? Unless your 245 comes mostly
> from height not girth, you may not be very comfortable with the now
> typically very low bar position of a road racing bike.


I've read people arguing this before, and I don't get it. I don't ride
drop bars for aerodynamics, I ride them for the multitude of hand
positions. If you're having a bike built from a frame (like a Surly
Pacer, Crosscheck or LHT) leave the steerer uncut and the bars high.
Flat bars are no higher than the tops of a drop bar, and you're locked
into one hand position (and one that's awful for out-of-saddle
climbing, IMO).

I would guess that most who advocate flat-bar road bikes haven't
ridden a drop bar that was well-configured for them.
 
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike. I'm
> willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
> before. Any bike suggestions?


Steel framed Trek 520, regeared 48 or 46 big ring and a 34 rear cog.
Properly sized (whatever you get).
 
"Hank Wirtz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sep 28, 6:30 pm, "BobT" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:[email protected]...> I've been biking for a
>> month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
>> > Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
>> > upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike.
>> > I'm
>> > willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
>> > before. Any bike suggestions?

>>
>> First I would ask, what are you looking for in a road bike that you don't
>> have on your hybrid?
>>
>> a) Drop handlebar for better aerodyanmics? Unless your 245 comes mostly
>> from height not girth, you may not be very comfortable with the now
>> typically very low bar position of a road racing bike.

>
> I've read people arguing this before, and I don't get it. I don't ride
> drop bars for aerodynamics, I ride them for the multitude of hand
> positions. If you're having a bike built from a frame (like a Surly
> Pacer, Crosscheck or LHT) leave the steerer uncut and the bars high.
> Flat bars are no higher than the tops of a drop bar, and you're locked
> into one hand position (and one that's awful for out-of-saddle
> climbing, IMO).
>
> I would guess that most who advocate flat-bar road bikes haven't
> ridden a drop bar that was well-configured for them.


I read his comment this way "Drop handlebar for better aerodyanmics?" If
you want better aerodyanmics, then you need them to be low. Hence, his
comment was against drop bars, but bars for better aerodyanmics (ie, low as
on my racing style road bikes made today).
>
 
"Hank Wirtz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sep 28, 6:30 pm, "BobT" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:[email protected]...> I've been biking for a
>> month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
>> > Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
>> > upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike.
>> > I'm
>> > willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my shoes
>> > before. Any bike suggestions?

>>
>> First I would ask, what are you looking for in a road bike that you don't
>> have on your hybrid?
>>
>> a) Drop handlebar for better aerodyanmics? Unless your 245 comes mostly
>> from height not girth, you may not be very comfortable with the now
>> typically very low bar position of a road racing bike.

>
> I've read people arguing this before, and I don't get it. I don't ride
> drop bars for aerodynamics, I ride them for the multitude of hand
> positions. If you're having a bike built from a frame (like a Surly
> Pacer, Crosscheck or LHT) leave the steerer uncut and the bars high.
> Flat bars are no higher than the tops of a drop bar, and you're locked
> into one hand position (and one that's awful for out-of-saddle
> climbing, IMO).
>
> I would guess that most who advocate flat-bar road bikes haven't
> ridden a drop bar that was well-configured for them.
>

I could not really disagree with much of what you said.

The drops are there to get you lower to help with aerodynamics. Of course,
they do offer more hand positions. If that is the main reason you or anyone
else chooses them, that certainly is your or their perogative.

Please note that I am not an advocate for or against flat-bar road bikes. I
have a commuter with a Nitto Noodle bar attached to a Nitto Technomic stem
positioned as high as possible which on my bike is with the top of the bar
about level with the top of the seat.

I also have a racing bike with a drop bar and a threadless steerer cutoff
short because it came that way when I bought it from a LBS when I didn't
know any better. I find the position on the drops on this bike
uncomfortably low and seldom use it except for brief periods. This is in
part because I am also "a fat guy". I realize there are ways to fix this
(both the bar height and me!). Most of the road racing bikes in bike shops
I've seen have the bars positioned low, hence my comment "typically very low
bar position of a road racing bike". As you mention, it is possible to buy
a frame/bike without the steerer cut off short or even a threaded steerer
which makes adjusting height very easy.

The point of my original post was to simply ask "Hud" what he didn't like
about his current bike and what was he looking for in a new bike so that I
and others could help give suggestions.

BobT
 
"BobT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
>> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
>> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike.
>> I'm willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my
>> shoes before. Any bike suggestions?

> First I would ask, what are you looking for in a road bike that you don't
> have on your hybrid?
>
> a) Drop handlebar for better aerodyanmics? Unless your 245 comes mostly
> from height not girth, you may not be very comfortable with the now
> typically very low bar position of a road racing bike.
>
> b) Better components? You could upgrade your current bike.
>
> c) You probably don't care if the bike weighs 23 pounds instead of 17
> pounds, right?
>
> d) You probably don't want low spoke count superlight wheels or skinny
> racing tires, right?
>
> If you tell us what your goal is in upgrading, the group might be able to
> give better suggestions.
>
> BobT
>
>


Just because I'm big doesn't mean I don't care about the weight of the bike.
My bodyweight is dropping from biking. I'm getting lighter and I want my
bike to get lighter too. My current bike is more of a comfort bike.
Solidly built, it has shock absorbers in the front and under the seat. My
wife says it's a "sweet ride." The tires are considerably bigger than road
bike wheels. It has straight handlebars. So my hands are forced to stay in
one spot. It's not built specifically for speed. I want a bike built for
speed. I don't need shock absorbers. And smaller diameter tires are better
for speed. I like to go fast. I can handle a roadbike; I just wonder if it
can handle me. (You can see what I look like here on our family website:
http://www.geocities.com/hud_ohio/HudnellFamilyPage ) To give my hands a
break, I often rest my forearms on the straight handlebars while I pedal.
So I believe I can handle drop handlebars. I'm currently reading "Heft On
Wheels" by Mike Magnuson. When he was in the 255 to 275 pound range he
found that the Trek 5200 was the right bike for him. This came after
damaging (bent frames and forks) several other brands of road bikes. Trek
no longer manufactures the 5200. I just wondered what else is on the
market.
 
Hud wrote:

>
> Just because I'm big doesn't mean I don't care about the weight of the
> bike. My bodyweight is dropping from biking. I'm getting lighter and I
> want my bike to get lighter too. My current bike is more of a comfort
> bike. Solidly built, it has shock absorbers in the front and under the
> seat. My wife says it's a "sweet ride." The tires are considerably
> bigger than road bike wheels. It has straight handlebars. So my hands
> are forced to stay in one spot. It's not built specifically for
> speed. I want a bike built for speed. I don't need shock absorbers.
> And smaller diameter tires are better for speed. I like to go fast. I
> can handle a roadbike; I just wonder if it can handle me. (You can see
> what I look like here on our family website:
> http://www.geocities.com/hud_ohio/HudnellFamilyPage ) To give my hands
> a break, I often rest my forearms on the straight handlebars while I
> pedal. So I believe I can handle drop handlebars. I'm currently reading
> "Heft On Wheels" by Mike Magnuson. When he was in the 255 to 275 pound
> range he found that the Trek 5200 was the right bike for him. This came
> after damaging (bent frames and forks) several other brands of road
> bikes. Trek no longer manufactures the 5200. I just wondered what else
> is on the market.


You have gotten excellent advice. Get good wheels and increase your
spoke count as needed. If you want a road bike, get a road bike.
Probably quite a few of us started at the weight you are and are riding
pretty light bikes.
 
"Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "BobT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
>>> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
>>> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike.
>>> I'm willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my
>>> shoes before. Any bike suggestions?

>> First I would ask, what are you looking for in a road bike that you don't
>> have on your hybrid?
>>
>> a) Drop handlebar for better aerodyanmics? Unless your 245 comes mostly
>> from height not girth, you may not be very comfortable with the now
>> typically very low bar position of a road racing bike.
>>
>> b) Better components? You could upgrade your current bike.
>>
>> c) You probably don't care if the bike weighs 23 pounds instead of 17
>> pounds, right?
>>
>> d) You probably don't want low spoke count superlight wheels or skinny
>> racing tires, right?
>>
>> If you tell us what your goal is in upgrading, the group might be able
>> to give better suggestions.
>>
>> BobT
>>
>>

>
> Just because I'm big doesn't mean I don't care about the weight of the
> bike. My bodyweight is dropping from biking. I'm getting lighter and I
> want my bike to get lighter too. My current bike is more of a comfort
> bike. Solidly built, it has shock absorbers in the front and under the
> seat. My wife says it's a "sweet ride." The tires are considerably
> bigger than road bike wheels. It has straight handlebars. So my hands
> are forced to stay in one spot. It's not built specifically for speed.
> I want a bike built for speed. I don't need shock absorbers. And smaller
> diameter tires are better for speed. I like to go fast. I can handle a
> roadbike; I just wonder if it can handle me. (You can see what I look
> like here on our family website:
> http://www.geocities.com/hud_ohio/HudnellFamilyPage ) To give my hands a
> break, I often rest my forearms on the straight handlebars while I pedal.
> So I believe I can handle drop handlebars. I'm currently reading "Heft On
> Wheels" by Mike Magnuson. When he was in the 255 to 275 pound range he
> found that the Trek 5200 was the right bike for him. This came after
> damaging (bent frames and forks) several other brands of road bikes. Trek
> no longer manufactures the 5200. I just wondered what else is on the
> market.


Get a road bike with drop handlebars adjusted to seat height (you can lower
them later) and good wheels with high spoke count. Some bikes let you go all
the way from 23mm tires to 28. You'll be fine with 28 for now. You can move
to 23 later.

Still, I'd say it's unlikely that you'll ever be a racer, but you can still
go fast. Frankly, I find it hard to believe that anyone who rides a bike
doesn' t like to go as fast as they can go (at least on a flat under your
own pedaling power and uphill, excluding downhill).

Most of these road-type comfort/touring models are well suited for any type
of riding. Just stay away from the super light *racing specific* stuff.
 
"catzz66" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hud wrote:
>
>>
>> Just because I'm big doesn't mean I don't care about the weight of the
>> bike. My bodyweight is dropping from biking. I'm getting lighter and I
>> want my bike to get lighter too. My current bike is more of a comfort
>> bike. Solidly built, it has shock absorbers in the front and under the
>> seat. My wife says it's a "sweet ride." The tires are considerably
>> bigger than road bike wheels. It has straight handlebars. So my hands
>> are forced to stay in one spot. It's not built specifically for speed.
>> I want a bike built for speed. I don't need shock absorbers. And
>> smaller diameter tires are better for speed. I like to go fast. I can
>> handle a roadbike; I just wonder if it can handle me. (You can see what
>> I look like here on our family website:
>> http://www.geocities.com/hud_ohio/HudnellFamilyPage ) To give my hands a
>> break, I often rest my forearms on the straight handlebars while I pedal.
>> So I believe I can handle drop handlebars. I'm currently reading "Heft
>> On Wheels" by Mike Magnuson. When he was in the 255 to 275 pound range
>> he found that the Trek 5200 was the right bike for him. This came after
>> damaging (bent frames and forks) several other brands of road bikes.
>> Trek no longer manufactures the 5200. I just wondered what else is on
>> the market.

>
> You have gotten excellent advice. Get good wheels and increase your spoke
> count as needed. If you want a road bike, get a road bike. Probably quite
> a few of us started at the weight you are and are riding pretty light
> bikes.


That is very encouraging to know. I am reading all the advice and will
check out the bikes mentioned in this thread. Much thanks to everyone who
responded!
 
"Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "BobT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Hud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I've been biking for a month and I'm hooked. I've been riding a Trek
>>> Multitrack 7200, a hybrid for urban transportation. I really want to
>>> upgrade to a road bike but worry my 245 lbs. will damage such a bike.
>>> I'm willing to spend up to $1500. Maybe some of you have been in my
>>> shoes before. Any bike suggestions?

>> First I would ask, what are you looking for in a road bike that you don't
>> have on your hybrid?
>>
>> a) Drop handlebar for better aerodyanmics? Unless your 245 comes mostly
>> from height not girth, you may not be very comfortable with the now
>> typically very low bar position of a road racing bike.
>>
>> b) Better components? You could upgrade your current bike.
>>
>> c) You probably don't care if the bike weighs 23 pounds instead of 17
>> pounds, right?
>>
>> d) You probably don't want low spoke count superlight wheels or skinny
>> racing tires, right?
>>
>> If you tell us what your goal is in upgrading, the group might be able
>> to give better suggestions.
>>
>> BobT
>>
>>

>
> Just because I'm big doesn't mean I don't care about the weight of the
> bike. My bodyweight is dropping from biking. I'm getting lighter and I
> want my bike to get lighter too. My current bike is more of a comfort
> bike. Solidly built, it has shock absorbers in the front and under the
> seat. My wife says it's a "sweet ride." The tires are considerably
> bigger than road bike wheels. It has straight handlebars. So my hands
> are forced to stay in one spot. It's not built specifically for speed.
> I want a bike built for speed. I don't need shock absorbers. And smaller
> diameter tires are better for speed. I like to go fast. I can handle a
> roadbike; I just wonder if it can handle me. (You can see what I look
> like here on our family website:
> http://www.geocities.com/hud_ohio/HudnellFamilyPage ) To give my hands a
> break, I often rest my forearms on the straight handlebars while I pedal.
> So I believe I can handle drop handlebars. I'm currently reading "Heft On
> Wheels" by Mike Magnuson. When he was in the 255 to 275 pound range he
> found that the Trek 5200 was the right bike for him. This came after
> damaging (bent frames and forks) several other brands of road bikes. Trek
> no longer manufactures the 5200. I just wondered what else is on the
> market.

After hearing more about you goals, I would recommend a standard road racing
bike. The choices are innumerable - Trek, Cannondale, Specialized and a
zillion others. You might want to avoid ultralight low-spoke count wheels
but this is probably not going to be standard on most $1500 bikes.

I weigh 220 pounds. I sometimes ride a Orbea Onix carbon fiber bike with a
carbon fiber handlebar, Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels, and 700c x 23 tires and so
far nothing has broken in three years. I am not advocating this particular
setup, but mention it to show that a big guy can ride a lightweight carbon
fiber bike with boutique wheels without the wheels or frame collapsing.

I would like to explain my question about the importance of bike weight.
For example, if you weigh 245 pounds and the bike weighs 17 pounds instead
of 24 pounds, that is a less than 3% difference in total rider/bike weight.
I ride for fun and exercise and not to race. For me, spending extra money
to have a bike that is a couple of pounds lighter is silly. This may sound
crazy since I just said I own and ride a carbon fiber bike with boutique
wheels. I bought it when I knew less than I know now and I want to help
others keep from repeating mistakes I've made. If you want to race, keep up
with the group, or just want to go fast because it is fun, spend the money
to get a really light bike that might increase your speed a few percentage
points. That's why I posed the question about bike weight rather than
simply stating that you don't need a super lightweight bike.

BobT
 

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