Road pedals - advantages/disadvantages bet. make/models



Z

Zilla

Guest
I currently have MTB pedals (Shimano M515) on my road bike and of course they work fine. If I was to
consider road pedals (which need road cleats of course), what should I keep in mind? I know that
pedal preference is totaly subjective, so I'm NOT asking which pedal "is best" but more along the
lines of "If you want this but not that then get make/model A, but if you want that but not this,
then get make/model B, etc..." I ride casually solo or in a group, i.e., I don't race. Thanks.

-Zilla
 
The biggest disadvantage to road pedals is having to walk in the shoes when you stop. If your
present MTB pedals/shoes work fine, then I wouldn't change.

Nick

"Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I currently have MTB pedals (Shimano M515) on my road bike and of course they work fine. If I
> was to consider road pedals (which need road cleats of course), what should I keep in mind? I
> know that pedal preference is totaly subjective, so I'm NOT asking which pedal "is best" but
> more along the lines of "If you want this but not that then get make/model A, but if you want
> that but not this, then get make/model B, etc..." I ride casually solo or in a group, i.e., I
> don't race. Thanks.
 
Originally posted by Nick Payne
The biggest disadvantage to road pedals is having to walk in the shoes when you stop. If your
present MTB pedals/shoes work fine, then I wouldn't change.

Nick


I'll second what Nick said, and add I have a number of friends (some who are x-racers) who are using mountian bike pedals and shoes for the same reason.
 
"Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I currently have MTB pedals (Shimano M515) on my road bike and of course they work fine. If I
> was to consider road pedals (which need road cleats of course), what should I keep in mind? I
> know that pedal preference is totaly subjective, so I'm NOT asking which pedal "is best" but
> more along the lines of "If you want this but not that then get make/model A, but if you want
> that but not this, then get make/model B, etc..." I ride casually solo or in a group, i.e., I
> don't race. Thanks.

Get some Looks. Then you can duck walk off the bike and fall down occasionally. Even better--
they're a lot more money! (515's are my "good" pedals).
 
<< Get some Looks. Then you can duck walk off the bike and fall down occasionally. Even better--
they're a lot more money! (515's are my "good" pedals). >>

Buy a $10 pair of snap-on rubber covers for LOOK cleats (or Speedplay or Time) that will allow you
to walk safely even on slippery floors without damage to the floors or your cleats. A reasonable
compromise considering that road bike cleats are not intended for walking long distances any more
than scuba fins or ice skates.
 
"Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I currently have MTB pedals (Shimano M515) on my road bike and of course they work fine. If I
> was to consider road pedals (which need road cleats of course), what should I keep in mind? I
> know that pedal preference is totaly subjective, so I'm NOT asking which pedal "is best" but
> more along the lines of "If you want this but not that then get make/model A, but if you want
> that but not this, then get make/model B, etc..." I ride casually solo or in a group, i.e., I
> don't race. Thanks.
>
> -Zilla

Plusses: road pedals and shoes are generally lighter than their mtn counterparts, stiffer shoes
Minuses: usually one sided pedals, awkward when walking

Speedplay pedals fix the first minus. Cleat covers fix the second.

Ya gotta ask exactly how far are you walking in your road shoes? IME, the road rides I've done are
rides, not hikes. You wanna hike too? Bring a pair of hiking shoes.

My next upgrade is to a (3) pair of D/A SPD-SLs.

I've ridden Looks, Speedplay road and mtn, Time ATACs, OnZa HOs, SPD-Rs, oh! and clips and straps.

My favorites for everyday riding: Speedplay durability w/o worrying: D/A Look-style

Mike
 
Mike S. wrote:
> "Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I currently have MTB pedals (Shimano M515) on my road bike and of course they work fine. If I was
>> to consider road pedals (which need road cleats of course), what should I keep in mind? I know
>> that pedal preference is totaly subjective, so I'm NOT asking which pedal "is best" but more
>> along the lines of "If you want this but not that then get make/model A, but if you want that but
>> not this, then get make/model B, etc..." I ride casually solo or in a group, i.e., I don't race.
>> Thanks.
>>
>> -Zilla
>
> Plusses: road pedals and shoes are generally lighter than their mtn counterparts, stiffer shoes
> Minuses: usually one sided pedals, awkward when walking
>
> Speedplay pedals fix the first minus. Cleat covers fix the second.
>
> Ya gotta ask exactly how far are you walking in your road shoes? IME, the road rides I've done are
> rides, not hikes. You wanna hike too? Bring a pair of hiking shoes.
>
> My next upgrade is to a (3) pair of D/A SPD-SLs.
>
> I've ridden Looks, Speedplay road and mtn, Time ATACs, OnZa HOs, SPD-Rs, oh! and clips and straps.
>
> My favorites for everyday riding: Speedplay durability w/o worrying: D/A Look-style
>
> Mike

Saw these though...

http://tinyurl.com/yvhvz

.. and these...

http://tinyurl.com/2ke3r

to fix the walking issue. But I believe I'll stick to my MTB pedals so I can just mix match shoes,
cleats and pedals. Thanks.

--
- Zilla Cary, NC (Remove XSPAM)
 
Zilla wrote:
> I currently have MTB pedals (Shimano M515) on my road bike and of course they work fine. If I
> was to consider road pedals (which need road cleats of course), what should I keep in mind? I
> know that pedal preference is totaly subjective, so I'm NOT asking which pedal "is best" but
> more along the lines of "If you want this but not that then get make/model A, but if you want
> that but not this, then get make/model B, etc..." I ride casually solo or in a group, i.e., I
> don't race. Thanks.

For better comfort, security and a feeling of power than your SPD pedals can provide; reasonable
prices; relatively large platforms; more maximum float (9 degrees vs 5) and if you don't mind not
being able to walk entirely normally - then consider Look 'PP' pedals. For the model, if you want
high retension force and variable float, PP396 or similar is good. Cheaper models will do otherwise.
Suitable for casual road riding as well as racing. Will need Look-compatible shoes. Kool Kovers help
with any walking.

~PB
 
Zilla wrote:
> I currently have MTB pedals (Shimano M515) on my road bike and of course they work fine. If I
> was to consider road pedals (which need road cleats of course), what should I keep in mind? I
> know that pedal preference is totaly subjective, so I'm NOT asking which pedal "is best" but
> more along the lines of "If you want this but not that then get make/model A, but if you want
> that but not this, then get make/model B, etc..." I ride casually solo or in a group, i.e., I
> don't race. Thanks.
>
> -Zilla

I have read the replies and it seems that the thread has turned into SPD V Look V others. Don't
forget one can get single sided SPD pedals for road use, at least one could. Also once can fit SPD
cleats to road shoes. If you want clip in pedals and easier shoe to walk on get a recessed SPD shoe,
probably a mountain bike one and matching pedals. If you want a larger pedalling platform get Look
pedals or maybe SPD-R. If you want to use any shoe get traditional rat traps. I have no experience
of Time/Speedplay/Eggbeaters so can't comment.

AFAIK SPD cleats (NOT SPD-R) work for all SPD (NOT SPD-R) pedals whether double sided for off road
use or single sided for road use.

LOOK seem to be very very popular amongst those of us who ride more than walk/push on the road,
probably for good reasons.

--
The Reply & From email addresses are checked rarely. http://www.mseries.freeserve.co.uk
 
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>I currently have MTB pedals (Shimano M515) on my road bike and of course they work fine. If I was
>to consider road pedals (which need road cleats of course), what should I keep in mind?

These are contradictory statements. If the SPD's are working fine for you, why change them?
-----------
Alex
 
"Mike Krueger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> << Get some Looks. Then you can duck walk off the bike and fall down occasionally. Even better--
> they're a lot more money! (515's are my "good" pedals). >>
>
> Buy a $10 pair of snap-on rubber covers for LOOK cleats (or Speedplay or
Time)
> that will allow you to walk safely even on slippery floors without damage to the floors or your
> cleats. A reasonable compromise considering that road
bike
> cleats are not intended for walking long distances any more than scuba fins
or
> ice skates.

SPD doesn't distinguish between "road" & "mountain". You can walk in them, but you're not
required to.
 
"Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> to fix the walking issue. But I believe I'll stick to my MTB pedals so I can just mix match shoes,
> cleats and pedals. Thanks.

Since I have 5 bikes, with 11 family bikes -- a mix of road & MTB, it's much easier to standardize
on a single system. I have a mix of Shimano & Wellgo pedals on all the bikes, & pretty much every
shoe will work with every bike.
 
"Mike S." <mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet> wrote

> Ya gotta ask exactly how far are you walking in your road shoes? IME, the road rides I've done are
> rides, not hikes. You wanna hike too? Bring a pair of hiking shoes.

The guy with the snapped chain I saw had walked a mile and had another couple to go (to reach a
phone). Fortunately I had a chain tool. It was also fortunately June, since he was walking barefoot,
carrying his Look'ed shoes. Look cleats suck even for walking around Starbucks.
 
zilla-<< I currently have MTB pedals (Shimano M515) on my road bike and of course they work fine. If
I was to consider road pedals (which need road cleats of course), what should I keep in mind?
>><BR><BR>

Shoe compatibility. Ease of entry and release. Durability and serviceability. Availaibility of pedal
small parts and cleats. Adjustability of the cleat.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
 
Alex Rodriguez wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
>>I currently have MTB pedals (Shimano M515) on my road bike and of course they work fine. If I was
>>to consider road pedals (which need road cleats of course), what should I keep in mind?
>
>
> These are contradictory statements. If the SPD's are working fine for you, why change them?
> -----------
> Alex
>

They work for me NOW! But in case I had to change them...

-Zilla
 
Peter Cole wrote:
> "Mike S." <mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet> wrote
>
>
>>Ya gotta ask exactly how far are you walking in your road shoes? IME, the road rides I've done are
>>rides, not hikes. You wanna hike too? Bring a pair of hiking shoes.
>
>
> The guy with the snapped chain I saw had walked a mile and had another couple to go (to reach a
> phone). Fortunately I had a chain tool. It was also fortunately June, since he was walking
> barefoot, carrying his Look'ed shoes. Look cleats suck even for walking around Starbucks.
>
>

Lesson learned, carry tools, and learn how to use them!

-Zilla
 
"Nick Payne" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> The biggest disadvantage to road pedals is having to walk in the shoes when you stop. If your
> present MTB pedals/shoes work fine, then I wouldn't change.
>
This reminds me of something I've been puzzling over in idle moments (and it's really just an idle
question): Why are cleats on the bottom of the shoe?

Why not use the rigid platform of the shoe in place of the pedal, have it continue up the side of
the shoe and have the cleat on the side of the shoe, next to the crank? No more worries about too-
thin pedal spindles, no duck walk, maybe lighter.

I can think of a few reasons:

1) It would be difficult to design an engagement mechanism that would
(a) engage without downward force, (b) prevent the foot from rocking and (c) not release as the foot
goes through a complete rotation during normal pedaling, while (d) releasing easily when you
want to release.

2) You wouldn't be able to stomp down when you miss the click in (on the other hand, maybe you would
miss less often if you could see where you were clicking in).

As I say, I'm sure there are very good reasons, but part of me wonders if the current system isn't
just a carryover from earlier days.
 
In my experience Bebops are simple, elegant, durable, and work really well. The attachment mechanism
is in the cleat so it gets replaced occasionally, but the actual grippy bits are recessed into the
cleat so they stand up to off the bike excursions very well. The double sided pedals shed grit well
so getting back on after walking around is no big thing like it can be with Speedplay road pedals
which have a massive lump of a cleat are notoriously sensitive to grit in the pedal/cleat interface.
The cleat is small and low enough that SPD compatible touring shoes work well for walking but you do
have to cut some of the rubber where the spindle is because of the low stack height of the
pedal/cleat combination. Low stack height is good, though, because it keeps your saddle/center of
gravity a little lower. The double sided pedal is still minimalist enough that cornering clearances
are very good, even on my fixie. In a pinch they are even reasonably easy to ride without a cleated
shoe since the double sided cage grabs the sole of a street shoe better than a Speedplay, SPD, or
look-style road pedal body and it doesn't have the lump like a Speedplay frog.
 
"Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Peter Cole wrote:
> > "Mike S." <mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet> wrote
> >
> >
> >>Ya gotta ask exactly how far are you walking in your road shoes? IME,
the
> >>road rides I've done are rides, not hikes. You wanna hike too? Bring a pair of hiking shoes.
> >
> >
> > The guy with the snapped chain I saw had walked a mile and had another
couple
> > to go (to reach a phone). Fortunately I had a chain tool. It was also fortunately June, since he
> > was walking barefoot, carrying his Look'ed
shoes.
> > Look cleats suck even for walking around Starbucks.
> >
> >
>
> Lesson learned, carry tools, and learn how to use them!
>
> -Zilla
>
That's my theory in life... One idea: make a single speed out of your mangled chain and keep riding!

Mike
 
"Mike S." <mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet> wrote in message news:<7A91c.13154$h23.10426@fed1read06>...
> "Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I currently have MTB pedals (Shimano M515) on my road bike and of course they work fine. If I
> > was to consider road pedals (which need road cleats of course), what should I keep in mind? I
> > know that pedal preference is totaly subjective, so I'm NOT asking which pedal "is best" but
> > more along the lines of "If you want this but not that then get make/model A, but if you want
> > that but not this, then get make/model B, etc..." I ride casually solo or in a group, i.e., I
> > don't race. Thanks.
> >
> > -Zilla
>
> Plusses: road pedals and shoes are generally lighter than their mtn counterparts, stiffer shoes
> Minuses: usually one sided pedals, awkward when walking
>
> Speedplay pedals fix the first minus. Cleat covers fix the second.
>
> Ya gotta ask exactly how far are you walking in your road shoes? IME, the road rides I've done are
> rides, not hikes. You wanna hike too? Bring a pair of hiking shoes.
>
> My next upgrade is to a (3) pair of D/A SPD-SLs.
>
> I've ridden Looks, Speedplay road and mtn, Time ATACs, OnZa HOs, SPD-Rs, oh!

I'll GLADLY take any SPD-R pedals off you. They are SO HARD to find these days and are the only
pedals I've liked. If you like to feel "locked-in" they are the best deal going IMHO.

-a
 

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