13. Disposal Considerations
Dispose of spilled material in accordance with state and local regulations for waste that is non-hazardous by
Federal definition. Note that this information applies to the material as manufactured; processing, use, or
contamination may make this information inappropriate, inaccurate, or incomplete.
Note: that this handling and disposal information may also apply to empty containers, liners and rinsate.
State or local regulations or restrictions are complex and may differ from federal regulations. This
information is intended as an aid to proper handling and disposal; the final responsibility for handling and
disposal is with the owner of the waste. See Section 9 - Physical and Chemical Properties.
It's non-hazardous, but what it stripped off your chain might be a hazard. Or at least useful to spray where you don't what grass and weeds to grow. If they do grow where you spray, check to see there are not more than three eyeballs per plant. More than three indicates a species invading from another planet.
Thank you, CampyBob. I read the MSDS and it is so generic I realize I'll have to ask my local recycling administrator (she has a Ph.D and is great to work with.) Meanwhile, the effluent is stored in a glass jar and this is hidden from the prying eyes of my better half. (She, too, has a Ph.D.)
We have very little grass now, after years of plantings. If I disposed of the effluent anywhere in the garden I may find myself dragged into divorce court.
I did the second chain cleaning of my entire life and I'm now waiting for the chain to dry before I lube it. I feel rather proud of myself for getting that far with bike maintenance.
Chain has been lubed successfully with Finish Line Wet. Lessons learned as a novice chain cleaner:
1. Do it more often.
2. Release the front brakes before trying to get the front tire off.
3. Any pushing or pulling of the chain with my hand while backpedaling will derail it off the front cog.
4. The Park citrus solvent is amazingly expensive. Got to find something cheaper.
5. Since I was working outside the whole time, and in a large city, I was concerned about theft of the bike and/or work stand. Note to self: get a longer wire cord to lock the whole thing to something like a tree.
6. The entire process is messy and justifies my purchase of blue plastic gloves -- the physician approved type. Note to self: find stronger gloves.
"4. The Park citrus solvent is amazingly expensive. Got to find something cheaper."
There was once a guy that invented a turbine engine that would run on Chanel No. 5...not that anyone could afford to do that...
Despite what the looney tunes on the intarwebz say, I use Simple Green. I buy it in bulk, on sale, at Menard's.
Yes, it's water based, but who really gives two *****? Either wait for your chain to dry out a bit before applying oil or just apply WD-40, then oil...then ride. It's an exposed/open chain drive gear transmission system exposed to tons of dirt and ****. Like a little bit of evaporating water mixed in with the oil is going to HURT it???
Some folks claim the orange citric cleaners are so acidic that they literally dissolve aluminum chainring teeth.
I, however, claim some folks are morons.
I've used all manner of cleaning **** on my Campagnolo chainrings and the last 53T one I replaced went somewhere between 25,000 and 30,000 miles. If only I hadn't used those toxic citric acid-based cleaners it might have lasted...another week!!!
As long as you dry off, wipe off or blow off the excess solvent and lube up fairly quickly, I've never seen the harm in them.
Want to use the bestest stuff? Use kerosene or diesel fuel. Diesel is around $2.42.9/Gallon in my 'hood. That don't buy the plastic cap on the Park bottle.