Saving to buy a better bike. Setting some goals

[rparedes]

I am beginning to create a wish list for a new road bike...maybe $1,800 to $2,400 range for good performance, smooth ride, hard training, riding steep hills and rolling terrain, maybe 4,500 to 5,500 miles per year and probably to keep for a long time. Current bike is a Giant OCR1 (105 group set) I've had it for about 1 year, it's a little heavy and the shifting is not as crisp as some the upper-end bikes I test rode (but could not afford) It's a good entry level bike but I think I'm "outgrowing" it. I did not want to spend a ton of money at the time since i was just getting back into biking; I'll probably give it to my son who's getting into biking...

Frame: carbon or alum/carbon combo?
grupo: shimano, SRAM, campy? what else is out there that is good?
wheelset: no idea
tires: no idea
crankset: probably a compact double, but what should I be looking for in terms of material? Alum, carbon?
stem and handlebar: I'm not sure what impact this would have on performance.

Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
regards

 

[Rudy]

I am beginning to create a wish list for a new road bike...maybe $1,800 to $2,400 range for good performance, smooth ride, hard training, riding steep hills and rolling terrain, maybe 4,500 to 5,500 miles per year and probably to keep for a long time. Current bike is a Giant OCR1 (105 group set) I've had it for about 1 year, it's a little heavy and the shifting is not as crisp as some the upper-end bikes I test rode (but could not afford) It's a good entry level bike but I think I'm "outgrowing" it. I did not want to spend a ton of money at the time since i was just getting back into biking; I'll probably give it to my son who's getting into biking...

Frame: carbon or alum/carbon combo?
grupo: shimano, SRAM, campy? what else is out there that is good?
wheelset: no idea
tires: no idea
crankset: probably a compact double, but what should I be looking for in terms of material? Alum, carbon?
stem and handlebar: I'm not sure what impact this would have on performance.

Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
regards

A used top of the line bike can be had for around that price range. I vote fo the Scott CR1. It's light, stiff and comfortable. A good climber

 

[nerdag]

Frame: carbon or alum/carbon combo?

Get all of one or the other - the bonding/glue of Alu/carbon causes more potential for problems than any claimed benefit is worth.

grupo: shimano, SRAM, campy? what else is out there that is good?

Get whatever feels best to you => test ride a few bikes with different gruppos so you get an idea of how the controls feel.

wheelset: no idea
tires: no idea

To cut a long story short - get what you can afford and what you like the look of.

If you're not sure what you want/need at this stage, then its probably not going to make a huge difference to you what wheelset you get.

FWIW, my opinion is that for an everyday wheelset, durability and servicability are more of a priority than light weight. Some here will beg to differ.

crankset: probably a compact double, but what should I be looking for in terms of material? Alum, carbon?

Unless you're generating enough power to be considering a professional sponsorship, any differences (real or perceived) are likely to be insignificant.

So go for carbon if you want the bling points and have the money to spend. Otherwise, alloy will probably be more than sufficient.

stem and handlebar: I'm not sure what impact this would have on performance.

Stem - probably buggerall difference.

Bars - This is more about comfort than anything else, and its a matter of what shape and width suits your hands/arms/riding position. There's no real way to tell what's going to work for you unless you've used and/or ridden a few. YOu might strike it lucky and get a good set first off.

HTH,

n

 

[steelem]

Get all of one or the other - the bonding/glue of Alu/carbon causes more potential for problems than any claimed benefit is worth.

Get whatever feels best to you => test ride a few bikes with different gruppos so you get an idea of how the controls feel.

To cut a long story short - get what you can afford and what you like the look of.

If you're not sure what you want/need at this stage, then its probably not going to make a huge difference to you what wheelset you get.

FWIW, my opinion is that for an everyday wheelset, durability and servicability are more of a priority than light weight. Some here will beg to differ.

Unless you're generating enough power to be considering a professional sponsorship, any differences (real or perceived) are likely to be insignificant.

So go for carbon if you want the bling points and have the money to spend. Otherwise, alloy will probably be more than sufficient.

Stem - probably buggerall difference.

Bars - This is more about comfort than anything else, and its a matter of what shape and width suits your hands/arms/riding position. There's no real way to tell what's going to work for you unless you've used and/or ridden a few. YOu might strike it lucky and get a good set first off.

HTH,

n

THATS REALLY HELPFUL NERD (N.F.B)!!! - BACK TO THE POST - IF I WAS YOU M8 WITH THAT SORT OF MONEY -ILD LOOK TOWARDS A 2ND HAND BIKE - YOU MIGHT SAY I WANT NEW BUT THINK THAT SOMEONE HAS PAID DOUBLE WHAT YOU ARE ABOUT TO PAY & YOULL HAVE A BIKE THAT WOULD HAVE TAKEN YOU TWICE AS LONG TO SAVE FOR - WITH ALL THAT HERE ARE SOME EXAMPLES YOU DIDNT SAY WHAT SIZE FRAME YOU ARE BUT YOU GOT SOME NICE BIKE IN THIS LOT & PARTS ARE AAAAA+

http://cgi.ebay.com/2007-Cannondale-System-Six-60cm-Team-Si-1_W0QQitemZ200156598579QQihZ010QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Barloworld-Cannondale-System-6_W0QQitemZ250168634913QQihZ015QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/2006-Cannondale-6-13-Team-Si-less-than-800-miles-old_W0QQitemZ190155475329QQihZ009QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/06-Cannondale-Six13-Team-SI-Campy-Record-Kysrium-Fizik_W0QQitemZ200157258974QQihZ010QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[janiejones]

Get all of one or the other - the bonding/glue of Alu/carbon causes more potential for problems than any claimed benefit is worth.

Do you have any evidence for this?

 

[nerdag]

Do you have any evidence for this?

To clarify, the only evidence I can present is anecdotal.

I've got a mate who's had two such frames that had started to creak and weaken at the seat tube/seatstay junction - both replaced under warranty. He ended up selling the offending frame, and 'downgraded' to an all Alu one.

So my experience has been n = 2 - take that as you will. They were early model frames (2003/4), so maybe the manufacturers have gotten their act together since then.

FWIW, i's also been mentioned on multiple occasions in recent times by other forum posters who usually talk sense, so I don't have any reason to doubt it.

That being the case, its hardly worth it IMHO to get some sort of alu/carbon hybrid when there are perfectly good frames made completely of one material out there for comprable prices.

n

 

[KellyT]

Do you have any evidence for this?

Well the perceived benefit bit is definitely true. I have a bike with a bonded carbon back end on it, and to be honest I see no real improvement over the all aluminium framed bike I have.

I've also read a lot of posts (anecdotal I know) complaining about creaking at the bonded junctions.

It's a fashion which doesn't really provide any real utility. Which naturally enough I fell for anyway.

 

[rparedes]

BTW, my frame size is 56cm. Most of these are bikes I rode at some point but not could not afford new. (I love the quality of the Cannondale frames) I'm just uncomfortable about buying an expensive item like that on-line (everything I've bought has been less than $100 bucks). I've also read several mixed reviews about bikesdirect.

What is your personal experience with big ticket items on eBay?

 

[steelem]

BTW, my frame size is 56cm. Most of these are bikes I rode at some point but not could not afford new. (I love the quality of the Cannondale frames) I'm just uncomfortable about buying an expensive item like that on-line (everything I've bought has been less than $100 bucks). I've also read several mixed reviews about bikesdirect.

What is your personal experience with big ticket items on eBay?

fantastic - i bought my system six off ebay uk - & have to say it was as Described - & its an absolute pleasure to take out - some of those listings i gave you have kyserium ES which is certainly somet i would' ve liked on my S.Six.
have some trust im sure you wont be disappointed

 

[threaded]

I am beginning to create a wish list for a new road bike ... and probably to keep for a long time.

Frame: carbon or alum/carbon combo?

Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
regards

No!

Now I'm considering you're talking a road race bike and you 'go for it' regularly, i.e. train regular and blast up the hills as hard as you can, come to sudden stops when you didn't quite make the lights this time, that kind of thing.

Carbon only lasts a year (if you keep a pair of forks longer than that you're asking to kiss the tarmac one day soon.)

Alu only lasts three years (gets to be springy and brittle all at the same time)

And as for carbon/alu: do the summer season, then do a few cyclo-cross races and then sling it into a dumpster.

You either want steel, or titanium.

 

[steelem]

No!

Now I'm considering you're talking a road race bike and you 'go for it' regularly, i.e. train regular and blast up the hills as hard as you can, come to sudden stops when you didn't quite make the lights this time, that kind of thing.

Carbon only lasts a year (if you keep a pair of forks longer than that you're asking to kiss the tarmac one day soon.)

Alu only lasts three years (gets to be springy and brittle all at the same time)

And as for carbon/alu: do the summer season, then do a few cyclo-cross races and then sling it into a dumpster.

You either want steel, or titanium.

wheres your proof on this - i have had my carbon alu for 2 summers now??

 

[threaded]

wheres your proof on this - i have had my carbon alu for 2 summers now??

I know a little about materials. Carbon, well the epoxy, will only last a few months in daylight and when it's warm. i.e. every time you think what a lovely day I'll go out on my bike, you shorten the life of the parts much more than if you go out when it is dull and cold. If you only take it out when it is dark and cold you'll maybe extend the life to 18 months.

And from another angle: the warranty they will give you on a similar part in the more litigious areas of the world. i.e. in America I've not seen a carbon fork that they will guarantee for more than a year. (yeah yeah, they'll guarantee it for a 'life-time', you go and find what 'life-time' means.)

 

[janiejones]

No!

Now I'm considering you're talking a road race bike and you 'go for it' regularly, i.e. train regular and blast up the hills as hard as you can, come to sudden stops when you didn't quite make the lights this time, that kind of thing.

Carbon only lasts a year (if you keep a pair of forks longer than that you're asking to kiss the tarmac one day soon.)

Alu only lasts three years (gets to be springy and brittle all at the same time)

And as for carbon/alu: do the summer season, then do a few cyclo-cross races and then sling it into a dumpster.

You either want steel, or titanium.

This is not true! Do you own a bikeshop and your fishing for business, or what?

Or, you have more money than...

 

[threaded]

This is not true! Do you own a bikeshop and your fishing for business, or what?

Or, you have more money than...

Actually I think I was pointing the original poster in the direction of either saving his pennies and getting a decent steel frame, or if he wanted to go the whole-hog go for titanium.

Carbon, alu and long-life do not fit together, sorry. Go and convince yourself otherwise, and when you get that sudden and catastrophic feeling you'll wish you'd inquired further.

 

[HazzardLight]

Alu only lasts three years (gets to be springy and brittle all at the same time)

Which school of physics explains the phenomenon of being springy and brittle at the same time?

 

[steelem]

I know a little about materials. Carbon, well the epoxy, will only last a few months in daylight and when it's warm. i.e. every time you think what a lovely day I'll go out on my bike, you shorten the life of the parts much more than if you go out when it is dull and cold. If you only take it out when it is dark and cold you'll maybe extend the life to 18 months.

And from another angle: the warranty they will give you on a similar part in the more litigious areas of the world. i.e. in America I've not seen a carbon fork that they will guarantee for more than a year. (yeah yeah, they'll guarantee it for a 'life-time', you go and find what 'life-time' means.)

if your theory was right why would cannondale give me a 10year warranty on the frame ??

 

[alienator]

I know a little about materials. Carbon, well the epoxy, will only last a few months in daylight and when it's warm. i.e. every time you think what a lovely day I'll go out on my bike, you shorten the life of the parts much more than if you go out when it is dull and cold. If you only take it out when it is dark and cold you'll maybe extend the life to 18 months.

And from another angle: the warranty they will give you on a similar part in the more litigious areas of the world. i.e. in America I've not seen a carbon fork that they will guarantee for more than a year. (yeah yeah, they'll guarantee it for a 'life-time', you go and find what 'life-time' means.)

Tp the OP: ignore the comments from threaded. They are wrong on so many levels that it's not worth discussing.

Since you're just getting back into things, I would NOT go the eBay route because it'll prolly be best to be able to test ride bikes to find what feels best, what fits best. Fit changes over time--hell, it often changes from the beginning of a season to the next--so what worked back then may not work now.

I wouldn't worry about choosing a particular material, either. Material properties matter very little in ride quality. I would also not focus too much on components. If you get the frame that feels best to you or that really flips your switches, then over time you can always upgrade components.

There is no way for anyone to accurately suggest what make of frame would suit you. What my butt tells me on a given bike may not be what your butt tells you.

Your best bet is to go testride a bunch of bikes at several or many LBSs and then form a short list of favorites. Then you can come back here for help with refining your choices.

 

[threaded]

if your theory was right why would cannondale give me a 10year warranty on the frame ??

Did they? Really? I think you'll find they say something along the lines of: components are warranted against manufacturing defects in materials and/or workmanship for a period of one year from the date of original retail purchase.

Please provide counter proof.

 

[threaded]

Tp the OP: ignore the comments from threaded. They are wrong on so many levels that it's not worth discussing.

Rather than prognosticating from a position of apparent ignorance, please provide a counter argument, so that I may help correct your misconceptions, alternatively I might learn something new.

 

[janiejones]

if your theory was right why would cannondale give me a 10year warranty on the frame ??

Good point Steelem - and a lifetime warranty on Giant's Alu; Alu/carbon & Carbon, the same as Orbea.

These companies are massive businesses - into bicycle manufacturing for the money, they are not going to be making something they need to replace free of charge every couple of years.