Schwalbe Stelvio tubulars and other ruminations?



Hi All,

I have come back to the realm of reality and I have decided that
rather than daydream about expensive bikes, I will take some steps to
making my existing kit lighter.

I have decided to build some lightweight tubular racing wheels, and to
get some light shoes. My current shoes are 1,100 grams! I figure I can
save over 1kg on the wheels/tires/cassette without getting too crazy.
For my everyday wheels I prefer clinchers because I find the prospect
of multiple flats out on the road easier to deal with them than with
tubulars. But for race wheels it doesn't matter. If I get a flat
either my race is over, or I get a wheel from the team car if there is
one. So tubulars are fine for this case, and since I can build a
lighter wheel with them, I will use them. I also am not worried about
aero. Ideally I would need some deep section carbon rims to maximize
my advantage when I am off the front in a lonely break. But the
reality is I am never off the front, but rather off the back dropped
on a hill due to my W/kg ratio. So in this case lightweight is the
answer.

I have already bought some rims and plan on ordering the spokes and
hubs soon. For the curious, the rims are Mavic Oro 10 28 hole, DT
Revolutions, alloy nipples (I know! I know!), and I am planning on
American Classic hubs despite bad things I've heard about them here.
That's what warranties are for, right? Before anyone gets too worked
up, I used Oro 7's back in the day and they survived, so the 10's
should too. Since these are race wheels they won't get too many miles,
so I can live with a certain fragility if it chops 1,000g off my
current setup. I can also save maybe 700g on shoes. And I can swap out
my comfy Rolls on race day and with a few other minor swaps I can drop
the weight of the kit by 2kg.

But the question remains, which tubulars to use? I have Challenge
Strada and Parigi-Roubaix on my retro rides, and some unknown
Vittorias, but I don't know what good modern tubulars to use. The idea
is to have something light, but at my size (210lbs) using something
like a Veloflex Record is just asking for problems. So I've been
thinking about the Swalbe Stelvio in the 25 size. Has anyone used
these? Are they nice? Any other suggestions for a performance oriented
tubular with a large-ish casing?

Joseph
 
On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 19:45:38 -0000, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>So I've been
>thinking about the Swalbe Stelvio in the 25 size. Has anyone used
>these? Are they nice? Any other suggestions for a performance oriented
>tubular with a large-ish casing?


I have no experience with that tire, and have seen info that
Schwalbes, in general, have high rolling reistance for racing tires.

That said, I've been using their clinchers for a year or a little more
and just put on one of their normal (narrower section) tubulars, and
am impressed with them. The tires seem really precise with the base
tape laid on just so, etc. And very round.
--
JT
****************************
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In article
<[email protected]>
,
"[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I have come back to the realm of reality and I have decided that
> rather than daydream about expensive bikes, I will take some steps to
> making my existing kit lighter.
>
> I have decided to build some lightweight tubular racing wheels, and to
> get some light shoes. My current shoes are 1,100 grams! I figure I can
> save over 1kg on the wheels/tires/cassette without getting too crazy.
> For my everyday wheels I prefer clinchers because I find the prospect
> of multiple flats out on the road easier to deal with them than with
> tubulars. But for race wheels it doesn't matter. If I get a flat
> either my race is over, or I get a wheel from the team car if there is
> one. So tubulars are fine for this case, and since I can build a
> lighter wheel with them, I will use them. I also am not worried about
> aero. Ideally I would need some deep section carbon rims to maximize
> my advantage when I am off the front in a lonely break. But the
> reality is I am never off the front, but rather off the back dropped
> on a hill due to my W/kg ratio. So in this case lightweight is the
> answer.
>
> I have already bought some rims and plan on ordering the spokes and
> hubs soon. For the curious, the rims are Mavic Oro 10 28 hole, DT
> Revolutions, alloy nipples (I know! I know!), and I am planning on
> American Classic hubs despite bad things I've heard about them here.
> That's what warranties are for, right? Before anyone gets too worked
> up, I used Oro 7's back in the day and they survived, so the 10's
> should too. Since these are race wheels they won't get too many miles,
> so I can live with a certain fragility if it chops 1,000g off my
> current setup. I can also save maybe 700g on shoes. And I can swap out
> my comfy Rolls on race day and with a few other minor swaps I can drop
> the weight of the kit by 2kg.
>
> But the question remains, which tubulars to use? I have Challenge
> Strada and Parigi-Roubaix on my retro rides, and some unknown
> Vittorias, but I don't know what good modern tubulars to use. The idea
> is to have something light, but at my size (210lbs) using something
> like a Veloflex Record is just asking for problems. So I've been
> thinking about the Swalbe Stelvio in the 25 size. Has anyone used
> these? Are they nice? Any other suggestions for a performance oriented
> tubular with a large-ish casing?


All in all, an excellent troll.
You know most of the hot buttons.
And you achieved plausible deniability.

--
Michael Press
 
On 27 Giu, 21:45, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I have come back to the realm of reality and I have decided that
> rather than daydream about expensive bikes, I will take some steps to
> making my existing kit lighter.
>
> I have decided to build some lightweight tubular racing wheels, and to
> get some light shoes. My current shoes are 1,100 grams! I figure I can
> save over 1kg on the wheels/tires/cassette without getting too crazy.
> For my everyday wheels I prefer clinchers because I find the prospect
> of multiple flats out on the road easier to deal with them than with
> tubulars. But for race wheels it doesn't matter. If I get a flat
> either my race is over, or I get a wheel from the team car if there is
> one. So tubulars are fine for this case, and since I can build a
> lighter wheel with them, I will use them. I also am not worried about
> aero. Ideally I would need some deep section carbon rims to maximize
> my advantage when I am off the front in a lonely break. But the
> reality is I am never off the front, but rather off the back dropped
> on a hill due to my W/kg ratio. So in this case lightweight is the
> answer.
>
> I have already bought some rims and plan on ordering the spokes and
> hubs soon. For the curious, the rims are Mavic Oro 10 28 hole, DT
> Revolutions, alloy nipples (I know! I know!), and I am planning on
> American Classic hubs despite bad things I've heard about them here.
> That's what warranties are for, right? Before anyone gets too worked
> up, I used Oro 7's back in the day and they survived, so the 10's
> should too. Since these are race wheels they won't get too many miles,
> so I can live with a certain fragility if it chops 1,000g off my
> current setup. I can also save maybe 700g on shoes. And I can swap out
> my comfy Rolls on race day and with a few other minor swaps I can drop
> the weight of the kit by 2kg.
>
> But the question remains, which tubulars to use? I have Challenge
> Strada and Parigi-Roubaix on my retro rides, and some unknown
> Vittorias, but I don't know what good modern tubulars to use. The idea
> is to have something light, but at my size (210lbs) using something
> like a Veloflex Record is just asking for problems. So I've been
> thinking about the Swalbe Stelvio in the 25 size. Has anyone used
> these? Are they nice? Any other suggestions for a performance oriented
> tubular with a large-ish casing?
>
> Joseph


Vittoria Corsa Evo CX, 23 mm, it's as large as a "narrow" 25.
Expensive tho.
Ciao
Luca.
 
On Jun 28, 9:03 am, Michael Press <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article
> <[email protected]>
> ,
> "[email protected]"
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Hi All,

>
> > I have come back to the realm of reality and I have decided that
> > rather than daydream about expensive bikes, I will take some steps to
> > making my existing kit lighter.

>
> > I have decided to build some lightweight tubular racing wheels, and to
> > get some light shoes. My current shoes are 1,100 grams! I figure I can
> > save over 1kg on the wheels/tires/cassette without getting too crazy.
> > For my everyday wheels I prefer clinchers because I find the prospect
> > of multiple flats out on the road easier to deal with them than with
> > tubulars. But for race wheels it doesn't matter. If I get a flat
> > either my race is over, or I get a wheel from the team car if there is
> > one. So tubulars are fine for this case, and since I can build a
> > lighter wheel with them, I will use them. I also am not worried about
> > aero. Ideally I would need some deep section carbon rims to maximize
> > my advantage when I am off the front in a lonely break. But the
> > reality is I am never off the front, but rather off the back dropped
> > on a hill due to my W/kg ratio. So in this case lightweight is the
> > answer.

>
> > I have already bought some rims and plan on ordering the spokes and
> > hubs soon. For the curious, the rims are Mavic Oro 10 28 hole, DT
> > Revolutions, alloy nipples (I know! I know!), and I am planning on
> > American Classic hubs despite bad things I've heard about them here.
> > That's what warranties are for, right? Before anyone gets too worked
> > up, I used Oro 7's back in the day and they survived, so the 10's
> > should too. Since these are race wheels they won't get too many miles,
> > so I can live with a certain fragility if it chops 1,000g off my
> > current setup. I can also save maybe 700g on shoes. And I can swap out
> > my comfy Rolls on race day and with a few other minor swaps I can drop
> > the weight of the kit by 2kg.

>
> > But the question remains, which tubulars to use? I have Challenge
> > Strada and Parigi-Roubaix on my retro rides, and some unknown
> > Vittorias, but I don't know what good modern tubulars to use. The idea
> > is to have something light, but at my size (210lbs) using something
> > like a Veloflex Record is just asking for problems. So I've been
> > thinking about the Swalbe Stelvio in the 25 size. Has anyone used
> > these? Are they nice? Any other suggestions for a performance oriented
> > tubular with a large-ish casing?

>
> All in all, an excellent troll.
> You know most of the hot buttons.
> And you achieved plausible deniability.
>
> --
> Michael Press


I tried to word things such that I might actually get some useful
information before things deteriorated. Now that JT has told me all I
need to know, everyone should now feel free to take this discussion
whichever way they please.

I plead Plausible Deniability! ;-)

Joseph
 
On Jun 27, 1:45 pm, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I have come back to the realm of reality and I have decided that
> rather than daydream about expensive bikes, I will take some steps to
> making my existing kit lighter.
>
> I have decided to build some lightweight tubular racing wheels, and to
> get some light shoes. My current shoes are 1,100 grams! I figure I can
> save over 1kg on the wheels/tires/cassette without getting too crazy.
> For my everyday wheels I prefer clinchers because I find the prospect
> of multiple flats out on the road easier to deal with them than with
> tubulars. But for race wheels it doesn't matter. If I get a flat
> either my race is over, or I get a wheel from the team car if there is
> one. So tubulars are fine for this case, and since I can build a
> lighter wheel with them, I will use them. I also am not worried about
> aero. Ideally I would need some deep section carbon rims to maximize
> my advantage when I am off the front in a lonely break. But the
> reality is I am never off the front, but rather off the back dropped
> on a hill due to my W/kg ratio. So in this case lightweight is the
> answer.
>
> I have already bought some rims and plan on ordering the spokes and
> hubs soon. For the curious, the rims are Mavic Oro 10 28 hole, DT
> Revolutions, alloy nipples (I know! I know!), and I am planning on
> American Classic hubs despite bad things I've heard about them here.
> That's what warranties are for, right? Before anyone gets too worked
> up, I used Oro 7's back in the day and they survived, so the 10's
> should too. Since these are race wheels they won't get too many miles,
> so I can live with a certain fragility if it chops 1,000g off my
> current setup. I can also save maybe 700g on shoes. And I can swap out
> my comfy Rolls on race day and with a few other minor swaps I can drop
> the weight of the kit by 2kg.
>
> But the question remains, which tubulars to use? I have Challenge
> Strada and Parigi-Roubaix on my retro rides, and some unknown
> Vittorias, but I don't know what good modern tubulars to use. The idea
> is to have something light, but at my size (210lbs) using something
> like a Veloflex Record is just asking for problems. So I've been
> thinking about the Swalbe Stelvio in the 25 size. Has anyone used
> these? Are they nice? Any other suggestions for a performance oriented
> tubular with a large-ish casing?
>
> Joseph


Conti Comp 22 or the new GP4000 tubie...think light thoughts on those
wheels, BTW-I wonder about the reliability of thin spokes, few spokes,
alloy nipps for your weight..same as mine, BTW- AND I would opt for DT
hubs instead of those incredibly crappy AC..the rear hub actually has
a 1 pawl system....a teeny spring end that activates the disc that
pulls the pawls into the freehub..break that spring, break the wheel.
 
On Jun 28, 2:29 pm, Qui si parla Campagnolo <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jun 27, 1:45 pm, "[email protected]"
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Hi All,

>
> > I have come back to the realm of reality and I have decided that
> > rather than daydream about expensive bikes, I will take some steps to
> > making my existing kit lighter.

>
> > I have decided to build some lightweight tubular racing wheels, and to
> > get some light shoes. My current shoes are 1,100 grams! I figure I can
> > save over 1kg on the wheels/tires/cassette without getting too crazy.
> > For my everyday wheels I prefer clinchers because I find the prospect
> > of multiple flats out on the road easier to deal with them than with
> > tubulars. But for race wheels it doesn't matter. If I get a flat
> > either my race is over, or I get a wheel from the team car if there is
> > one. So tubulars are fine for this case, and since I can build a
> > lighter wheel with them, I will use them. I also am not worried about
> > aero. Ideally I would need some deep section carbon rims to maximize
> > my advantage when I am off the front in a lonely break. But the
> > reality is I am never off the front, but rather off the back dropped
> > on a hill due to my W/kg ratio. So in this case lightweight is the
> > answer.

>
> > I have already bought some rims and plan on ordering the spokes and
> > hubs soon. For the curious, the rims are Mavic Oro 10 28 hole, DT
> > Revolutions, alloy nipples (I know! I know!), and I am planning on
> > American Classic hubs despite bad things I've heard about them here.
> > That's what warranties are for, right? Before anyone gets too worked
> > up, I used Oro 7's back in the day and they survived, so the 10's
> > should too. Since these are race wheels they won't get too many miles,
> > so I can live with a certain fragility if it chops 1,000g off my
> > current setup. I can also save maybe 700g on shoes. And I can swap out
> > my comfy Rolls on race day and with a few other minor swaps I can drop
> > the weight of the kit by 2kg.

>
> > But the question remains, which tubulars to use? I have Challenge
> > Strada and Parigi-Roubaix on my retro rides, and some unknown
> > Vittorias, but I don't know what good modern tubulars to use. The idea
> > is to have something light, but at my size (210lbs) using something
> > like a Veloflex Record is just asking for problems. So I've been
> > thinking about the Swalbe Stelvio in the 25 size. Has anyone used
> > these? Are they nice? Any other suggestions for a performance oriented
> > tubular with a large-ish casing?

>
> > Joseph

>
> Conti Comp 22 or the new GP4000 tubie...think light thoughts on those
> wheels, BTW-I wonder about the reliability of thin spokes, few spokes,
> alloy nipps for your weight..same as mine, BTW- AND I would opt for DT
> hubs instead of those incredibly crappy AC..the rear hub actually has
> a 1 pawl system....a teeny spring end that activates the disc that
> pulls the pawls into the freehub..break that spring, break the wheel.


I'm hoping they will work out for the limited miles they will get. If
they don't it won't be the end of the world. I can patch 'em up and
sell them to one of my light weight buddies. If the alloy nipples turn
out to be a problem I'll just swap them out. I'd like the DT hubs but
at local prices they cost $250 more than the AC's for a set. I kind of
figured the Revolutions would be the wisest choice given the loads,
maybe even the only sane choice in the whole operation!

Joseph
 
Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades. - Eddy Merckx

Michael Hamilton

[email protected] wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I have come back to the realm of reality and I have decided that
> rather than daydream about expensive bikes, I will take some steps to
> making my existing kit lighter.
>
> I have decided to build some lightweight tubular racing wheels, and to
> get some light shoes. My current shoes are 1,100 grams! I figure I can
> save over 1kg on the wheels/tires/cassette without getting too crazy.
> For my everyday wheels I prefer clinchers because I find the prospect
> of multiple flats out on the road easier to deal with them than with
> tubulars. But for race wheels it doesn't matter. If I get a flat
> either my race is over, or I get a wheel from the team car if there is
> one. So tubulars are fine for this case, and since I can build a
> lighter wheel with them, I will use them. I also am not worried about
> aero. Ideally I would need some deep section carbon rims to maximize
> my advantage when I am off the front in a lonely break. But the
> reality is I am never off the front, but rather off the back dropped
> on a hill due to my W/kg ratio. So in this case lightweight is the
> answer.
>
> I have already bought some rims and plan on ordering the spokes and
> hubs soon. For the curious, the rims are Mavic Oro 10 28 hole, DT
> Revolutions, alloy nipples (I know! I know!), and I am planning on
> American Classic hubs despite bad things I've heard about them here.
> That's what warranties are for, right? Before anyone gets too worked
> up, I used Oro 7's back in the day and they survived, so the 10's
> should too. Since these are race wheels they won't get too many miles,
> so I can live with a certain fragility if it chops 1,000g off my
> current setup. I can also save maybe 700g on shoes. And I can swap out
> my comfy Rolls on race day and with a few other minor swaps I can drop
> the weight of the kit by 2kg.
>
> But the question remains, which tubulars to use? I have Challenge
> Strada and Parigi-Roubaix on my retro rides, and some unknown
> Vittorias, but I don't know what good modern tubulars to use. The idea
> is to have something light, but at my size (210lbs) using something
> like a Veloflex Record is just asking for problems. So I've been
> thinking about the Swalbe Stelvio in the 25 size. Has anyone used
> these? Are they nice? Any other suggestions for a performance oriented
> tubular with a large-ish casing?
>
> Joseph
>
 
On Jun 27, 3:45 pm, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I have come back to the realm of reality and I have decided that
> rather than daydream about expensive bikes, I will take some steps to
> making my existing kit lighter.
>
> I have decided to build some lightweight tubular racing wheels, and to
> get some light shoes. My current shoes are 1,100 grams! I figure I can
> save over 1kg on the wheels/tires/cassette without getting too crazy.
> For my everyday wheels I prefer clinchers because I find the prospect
> of multiple flats out on the road easier to deal with them than with
> tubulars. But for race wheels it doesn't matter. If I get a flat
> either my race is over, or I get a wheel from the team car if there is
> one. So tubulars are fine for this case, and since I can build a
> lighter wheel with them, I will use them. I also am not worried about
> aero. Ideally I would need some deep section carbon rims to maximize
> my advantage when I am off the front in a lonely break. But the
> reality is I am never off the front, but rather off the back dropped
> on a hill due to my W/kg ratio. So in this case lightweight is the
> answer.
>
> I have already bought some rims and plan on ordering the spokes and
> hubs soon. For the curious, the rims are Mavic Oro 10 28 hole, DT
> Revolutions, alloy nipples (I know! I know!), and I am planning on
> American Classic hubs despite bad things I've heard about them here.
> That's what warranties are for, right? Before anyone gets too worked
> up, I used Oro 7's back in the day and they survived, so the 10's
> should too. Since these are race wheels they won't get too many miles,
> so I can live with a certain fragility if it chops 1,000g off my
> current setup. I can also save maybe 700g on shoes. And I can swap out
> my comfy Rolls on race day and with a few other minor swaps I can drop
> the weight of the kit by 2kg.
>
> But the question remains, which tubulars to use? I have Challenge
> Strada and Parigi-Roubaix on my retro rides, and some unknown
> Vittorias, but I don't know what good modern tubulars to use. The idea
> is to have something light, but at my size (210lbs) using something
> like a Veloflex Record is just asking for problems. So I've been
> thinking about the Swalbe Stelvio in the 25 size. Has anyone used
> these? Are they nice? Any other suggestions for a performance oriented
> tubular with a large-ish casing?


According to:
http://ddata.over-blog.com/xxxyyy/0/02/72/10/tubular-specs.html
you'll be paying a 10 watt penalty (per tire?) by going with the
Schwalbe over the Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX which also has better
puncture resistance. The extra 37 grams per tire seems like a
worthwhile tradeoff.
 

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