Schwinn Varsity back from the dead (at Walmart!)

[backtobiking]

I snagged me a '92 Paramount Series 5 for the same price as the wal-mart varsity. I know it isn't a waterford, but it might as well be in comparison. Happy Dance!

My friends Varsity jumped a few gears while climbing a step hill. He thought he had bumped the shifter. Humm, maybe not. It hasn't happened again. The thing is however not holding the adjustment so well.

 

[e0richt]

I did replace the cable when I rebuilt it. The cable that was on it from the store frayed really easy and needed to be replaced. thanks for the suggestion though. I just blew my first tire on it. The inner tube ripped away from the valve. (common). I need to say it again.....THESE BRAKES ARE FANTASTIC. Someone cut in front of me and I damn near launched myself off the bike hitting the brakes and the tires that came on the bike are quite grippy.
Aside from the drive train problems, This bike is a good runner. Hopefully the new Ultegra drive train will arrive in the mail soon. Next up on the replacement list is new shifters and brake handle combo. The current thumb shifters are geting in the way of my aero bar.

you might want to take a look at this article...
http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

sounds like your problem might just be only the chain...

 

[tcar5]

you might want to take a look at this article...
http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

sounds like your problem might just be only the chain...

I have read the article, actually its printed out and is what I refer back to everytime I adjust the thing. I also took two links out of the chain to shorten it thinking there was too much play, it actually seems worse now. If I am pedaling flat and hit a bump, it shifts to the next lower gear on the cog, if I am climbing and hit a bump it shifts to the higher cog gear. Its really like having an automatic transmission. Maybe there is a new concept here. In any case new Ultegra parts are on their way and that should resolve any problems.
Thanks for the advice.

 

[e0richt]

I have read the article, actually its printed out and is what I refer back to everytime I adjust the thing. I also took two links out of the chain to shorten it thinking there was too much play, it actually seems worse now. If I am pedaling flat and hit a bump, it shifts to the next lower gear on the cog, if I am climbing and hit a bump it shifts to the higher cog gear. Its really like having an automatic transmission. Maybe there is a new concept here. In any case new Ultegra parts are on their way and that should resolve any problems.
Thanks for the advice.

according to the article, autoshifting can be caused by "cable friction" or
"frame flex"... hopefully, its not frame flex... I would think that would affect
the ultegra components as well...

 

[tcar5]

according to the article, autoshifting can be caused by "cable friction" or
"frame flex"... hopefully, its not frame flex... I would think that would affect
the ultegra components as well...

For good measure I was going to replace the cables with Ultegra grey cables also. But the frame flex I forgot about....thanks for reminding me. I sure as heck hope its not that, but then again the core of this project is a Walmart frame. I think I will check for stress fractures. I am 5'10 and 180 so I should not be pushing the envelope on the weight this frame should handle but factory defect could be an issue.....I will update with what I find.
Thanks for the suggestions
Tim

 

[wescoas1]

Younger people won't resonate with this name.

Sure they will, I just went out riding my father's original Schwinn Varsity 2 days ago.

 

[e0richt]

Sure they will, I just went out riding my father's original Schwinn Varsity 2 days ago.

what I don't understand is why it seems to be a problem to manufacture a bike today that has the same quality today as one that was issued about 20 years ago... (with the same type of components) to be a "low end" bike... one that
will last as long as the original schwinn varsity...

they still make cro-molly frames... (which I prefer over aluminum stuff...)
I can't believe that you can't get some decent components for the bike (and by that I mean that "work" not as in newer tech like STI and in finding the
high end "alloys" for lightness. It seems that the brakes are good on the walmart version of the varsity according to tcar... so there are solid components out there...

 

[backtobiking]

I believe the original was far better. Here in town before they redone the sidewalks they used to have a naste couple of steps down town. Not remotely close of being accessible for handicap people or able people in the winter for that matter. Nice for BMXers. It was a sudden 3' drop with crappy steps. I used to jump Off the sidewalk with the green meany varsity. Never did I wreck a rim, damage the frame or have the derailleurs not work! It is hard to get a brand new Varsity that isn't dinked up in some way brand new or will last a season without a problem, let alone BMXing it like I did mine as a kid. I vote hands down for the old school varsity.

 

[blindsaint]

I just bought this bike last night (with birthday money). Went on a short ride (probablay 2 miles at the most) today just to get the seat feeling right and make sure the breaks and gears work... I love it so far. I'll be riding everyday (if the weather permits it). I'll be looking for a better seat pretty soon I think, possibly a whole new post too. You can't it out on the bike though, some seats are just uncomfortable....

It's a great bike if you don't have alot of money. I definetaly prefer it over a used bike (where you can never be sure how new all the parts are, or how well they have been maintained).

 

[e0richt]

I just bought this bike last night (with birthday money). Went on a short ride (probablay 2 miles at the most) today just to get the seat feeling right and make sure the breaks and gears work... I love it so far. I'll be riding everyday (if the weather permits it). I'll be looking for a better seat pretty soon I think, possibly a whole new post too. You can't it out on the bike though, some seats are just uncomfortable....

It's a great bike if you don't have alot of money. I definetaly prefer it over a used bike (where you can never be sure how new all the parts are, or how well they have been maintained).

well, this last saturday, I went for my first recreational group ride. I was under the impression that it would be a 20 mile ride and I have done 15 before so I didn't think that was too much of a stretch. I was able to really try out my "Dawes Lightning Sport". It handled great and I was able to feel the
difference in terms of amount of energy I had to use to get speed out of it
(much better than the hybrid). Unfortunately, the ride that I thought was a 20 mile ride really turned out to be a 28 mile ride. It got a bit uncomfortable
toward the end of that due to no fault of the bike, except for maybe the
seat...

I think it might be a better alternative to the reborn "Varsity"... it certainly is
similar in price...

 

[tcar5]

I think it might be a better alternative to the reborn "Varsity"... it certainly is
similar in price...

Nice bike, its hard to see but is that bike running Shimano 105 or is it SIS derailer? I would love to try that bike out. How much does it weigh?

 

[e0richt]

Nice bike, its hard to see but is that bike running Shimano 105 or is it SIS derailer? I would love to try that bike out. How much does it weigh?

Here are the features of the bike...
not sure what the weight is, but I will check on it and get back to you...

as a sideline note, I had to take the bike into my LBS before the ride because I couldn't get the derailer adjusted properly and my LBS had no problems adjusting it and I didn't get that "hmmm a dept store bike" kind of feel from
them about servicing it... on getting info on the recreational group ride, the owner recommended that I take the Dawes rather than my trek 7100 hybrid...
by the way, the LBS was the one that sold me the trek 7100...


FEATURES
Full Chrome-moly Dura-Forte Frame and fork; with Alex Aluminum rims, Shimano 2200 14-speed der's with stem indexed shifters, Maxxis 130 PSI 700c tires, quick release wheels front and rear, aluminum alloy hubs, SHIMANO aluminum crank, Aluminum alloy pedals including toe clips with straps, aluminum stem, aluminum handlebar, aluminum seatpost, ProMax aluminum side-pull brakes and levers, plus a very nice Velo Road bike seat.

 

[tcar5]

FEATURES
Full Chrome-moly Dura-Forte Frame and fork; with Alex Aluminum rims, Shimano 2200 14-speed der's with stem indexed shifters, Maxxis 130 PSI 700c tires, quick release wheels front and rear, aluminum alloy hubs, SHIMANO aluminum crank, Aluminum alloy pedals including toe clips with straps, aluminum stem, aluminum handlebar, aluminum seatpost, ProMax aluminum side-pull brakes and levers, plus a very nice Velo Road bike seat.

No fair, for $10 bucks more you at least get the Shamino charted components. Granted they are last on the list but the SIS is not even mentioned in their product line. Plus a decent seat to boot......nice deal. You will have to keep us updated on how it all pans out.
Man, 130 PSI tires......better buy a really good bike pump...

 

[e0richt]

No fair, for $10 bucks more you at least get the Shamino charted components. Granted they are last on the list but the SIS is not even mentioned in their product line. Plus a decent seat to boot......nice deal. You will have to keep us updated on how it all pans out.
Man, 130 PSI tires......better buy a really good bike pump...

yeah, I have to admit, this is the first time dealing with the presta valves and the higher PSI tires. But at the same time, its kind of cool... I didn't feel that I really stuck out on the group ride and the bike felt "spritely" compared to my
hybrid. It shifted crisply. I was wondering about the dual chain ring but there are a couple of bridge overpasses that are kind of hilly, (fairly flat in NJ) and
I had no problems with them so I don't miss the granny gear... (however, you can get a higher end model that has it...)

the next thing I have my eye on is getting an aerobar... (there always seems to be something to tweak in order to get better performance) but I feel that Im still ahead of the game...

 

[e0richt]

No fair, for $10 bucks more you at least get the Shamino charted components. Granted they are last on the list but the SIS is not even mentioned in their product line. Plus a decent seat to boot......nice deal. You will have to keep us updated on how it all pans out.
Man, 130 PSI tires......better buy a really good bike pump...

well, I have put 53 more miles on the bike, so far no problems with any shifting,
brakes are good and it is fun to ride... I have had to put money into it some that I have already accounted for some not...

bike with shipping.......... 249.00
stem extender............... 15.00 -- helps me use the drops of the
handlebar
derailer adjustment........ ~20.00 -- from LBS...
cyclecomputer.............. 10.00 -- from wal-mart
--------
294.00

I had this "ergonomic" seat (Easyseat II) that I used for my hybrid (which was very comfortable...) and tried it on the Dawes but found that the seat that
came with the bike was more comfortable...

I have been running the tires at 100 psi rather than the 130 psi max basically because I don't have a pump that goes that high yet... (I have a carry pump that goes to 120 but the last time I tried that on a presta valve, I somehow bent the pin and had to replace the tube, so Im kind of gunshy with that now...)

 

[tcar5]

well, I have put 53 more miles on the bike, so far no problems with any shifting,
brakes are good and it is fun to ride... I have had to put money into it some that I have already accounted for some not...

bike with shipping.......... 249.00
stem extender............... 15.00 -- helps me use the drops of the
handlebar
derailer adjustment........ ~20.00 -- from LBS...
cyclecomputer.............. 10.00 -- from wal-mart
--------
294.00

I had this "ergonomic" seat (Easyseat II) that I used for my hybrid (which was very comfortable...) and tried it on the Dawes but found that the seat that
came with the bike was more comfortable...

I have been running the tires at 100 psi rather than the 130 psi max basically because I don't have a pump that goes that high yet... (I have a carry pump that goes to 120 but the last time I tried that on a presta valve, I somehow bent the pin and had to replace the tube, so Im kind of gunshy with that now...)

$20 for derailer adjustment is a good deal. You'll have to let me know if it holds. I think I have a good deal coming on some slightly used Shamino 105 derailers. Of course now I hear the call of a new build. Winter is coming and what better time then the cold non-riding days to build a new bike. Any suggestions on a decent cheap frame for a new road bike? I do not want an old junked out steel frame.

 

[e0richt]

$20 for derailer adjustment is a good deal. You'll have to let me know if it holds. I think I have a good deal coming on some slightly used Shamino 105 derailers. Of course now I hear the call of a new build. Winter is coming and what better time then the cold non-riding days to build a new bike. Any suggestions on a decent cheap frame for a new road bike? I do not want an old junked out steel frame.

the derailer adjustment was needed because I somehow "boogered" up the cable when trying to adjust it myself when I got the bike... so that was before I put the 53 additional miles... total miles 67... I will keep you up to date on how the derailer handles...

oh and by the way, I haven't weighed the bike myself but I have heard the bike weighs 22 lbs... but thats probably without the pedals... it is definitely less weight than my trek 7100 hybrid...

suggestions for a cheap frame? nope, you might try ebay (but you already know about that...) there might be a "craigs list" posting in your area.

you might try a search for "cycle clubs" that might have some classifieds dealing with a bike frame. (the benefit is that you might find something worthwhile locally that you can go take a look at... same for complete bikes as well... same for craigs list as well...)

so are you still going to put the Ultegra componens on the "schwinn varsity"?

 

[tcar5]

so are you still going to put the Ultegra componens on the "schwinn varsity"?

Yes, but a slight snag I didn't think of. I now have to replace the rear hub. The spacing is the same as the SIS, but the STI is for a 9 speed. I cannot get the right combo of adjustments and I think I am waisting my time trying to use the old SIS 7 speed cassette and hub. I am looking for a new hub and 9 speed cassette now. AND......I apparently need to get new cables also. I am now learning that the walmart cables that I bought are not usable for the Ultegra system. I figure, heck I have gone this far and if the last few parts are going to be cheap enough...might as well go all the way.
I sure hope the frame holds up. I have pretty much rebuild the whole darn thing and its not really a budget bike anymore. I am reaching the mid range price now. However I sure have learned a lot about wrenching and doing it myself.

 

[xjohnx]

Here is just one breakdown of the cost of upgrading the Schwinn Varsity Walmart Road Bike:
Fresh start Schwinn Varsity Stock ($199 new)
Vincolo 700c Carbon Fiber fork (ebay $59 new)
Carbon Seat post (ebay $25 new)
Vincolo alloy 100mm AHead (ebay $15 new)
Better Seat (Sella Itialia) (ebay $30 used but in perfect shape)
Giro helmet (ebay $5 new)
Shamino on/off road bike shoes (local shop on sale $39 new)
Clipless pedals (shamino ebay $30 w/cleats new)
Everything else stock......$0

Total for everything.....$402.00

I just traded my Trek 4100 (entry level MTB) for one of the new Schwinn Varsitys in really good condition. I'm a n00b to road bikes though, any chance you could tell me what added benefit each of those upgrades adds to the bike (Namely, the Fork, Seat post, Ahead)? Or is there a FAQ somewhere that will explain this? I tried searching but couldn't find anything.

 

[e0richt]

I just traded my Trek 4100 (entry level MTB) for one of the new Schwinn Varsitys in really good condition. I'm a n00b to road bikes though, any chance you could tell me what added benefit each of those upgrades adds to the bike (Namely, the Fork, Seat post, Ahead)? Or is there a FAQ somewhere that will explain this? I tried searching but couldn't find anything.

well, basically the idea comes down to weight.
carbon fiber weighs much less than most (if not all) metals that are used on a
bike.
and of course there are metal alloys that are lighter than the stock metal used on a low end bike.

the lighter the weight the easier it is for the rider to use the bike.
However, unless you are going on alot of hills, you might want to consider that
it might be more beneficial to make yourself more "aero" rather than worry about the weight of the bike... (maybe some clip-on aero bars for instance...)