Have you considered doing a fantastically damn good job of polishing once, then putting some krylon
clear coat on or something? Seems like a lot of effort to put in if it just fades...
Jon Bond
Me wrote:
> It would look good if you are willing to put the work in, but trust me from someone who polishes
> his al road and mtb bikes, the polish will only last for a couple days before it starts to oxidize
> an goes dull again, requiring almost all the work again. and this assumes you are riding in the
> dry all the time and not on any salted roads! whihch only speeds it up.
>
> There is a reason why most Als have some sort of clear coating on the outside.
>
> hope this helps...
>
>
> "B. Sanders" <
[email protected]> wrote in message
news:EDHia.305532$F1.51629@sccrnsc04...
>
>>"Linz" <
[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>I seem to recall that some time ago, someone posted some useful stuff about how to polish
>>>scratches out of Ultegra / Dura Ace components.
>>>
>>>Is there any chance of posting it again as my groupset needs tidying
>>
> up!!
>
>>AFAIK, Dura Ace and Ultegra components are anodized. If you polish them up in one spot, you'll
>>take the finish off, and it will be obviously
>
> different.
>
>>At least that's what happened to me. I couldn't get the polished areas to look similar to the
>>original finish; but it did make the badly scratched areas look better.
>>
>>I've used 00 or 000 grade steel wool for tough scratches, and finished it
>
> to
>
>>a fine luster with Nevr Dull cotton wadding metal polish (comes in a blue tin). A bench grinder
>>with a buffing wheel and some polishing rouge is probably a better choice for finishing.
>>
>>I've heard that ammonia will remove anodizing if you want to go that far. If you put a chrome-like
>>high polish on your components, it would look beautiful. You're probably looking at a couple of
>>evenings worth of work; but you'd have one gorgeous gruppo when you're done.
>>
>>-Barry
>>
>>
>
