Spray the pads down thoroughly with this and wipe on a white rag between sprays to see progress. As you go it will get to the point where there will be no smudge left from the contaminant, then put the pads in the oven for 15 mins or so at 300* F (operating rating for them is over 450 so don't worry.) This ensures they are completely dried of solvents.
Ever used oven cleaner?tyler_derden said:While I'm all for using brake cleaner to fix your problem, I'd leave it out of the kitchen. Look at the product warnings on the can's label and tell me if you think that is the sort of thing with which you want to contaminate your food preparation eqipment.
If the opportunity for me to eat dinner at your house should ever present itself, remind me to insist that we go to a restaurant instead!
TD
Conniebiker said:Ever used oven cleaner?
That is FAR MORE lethal than the nth of a percent of brake solvent remaining.
Not a tempting prospect anyway.tyler_derden said:I won't be eating dinner at your house either!
TD
get a clean rag and poor some rubbing alchohol on it then wipe off the rotorsprobob said:anyone know what to do if you get grease on your disc brakes.
Anything fit for putting on your skin isn't strong enough to break down grease. Isopropyl Alcohol is OK for cleaning off dirt. That's about the extent of it's powers. I know, I tried using Isopropyl for quite sometime. It DOES NOT WORK.mtnrider said:get a clean rag and poor some rubbing alchohol on it then wipe off the rotors
alcazar said:Hope advise the use of purple methylated spirit, (methanol) on their rotors, and NOTHING on their pads, which should be kept glaze free by gently rubbing on a piece of fine emery cloth in a circular motion.
Contaminated pads are bin fodder
Alcazar
Conniebiker said:o a car parts store or Wallmart and get a couple cans of Brakleen brake parts cleener(non-chlorinated, big difference). It is a highly evaporative solvent that dissolves anything greasy oily and evaporates instantly.
Spray the pads down thoroughly with this and wipe on a white rag between sprays to see progress. As you go it will get to the point where there will be no smudge left from the contaminant, then put the pads in the oven for 15 mins or so at 300* F (operating rating for them is over 450 so don't worry.) This ensures they are completely dried of solvents.
Take another CLEAN rag and wet the rag heavily and wipe the rotor. Reinstall it all and enjoy.
In some cases, like if they pads have been used heavily when contaminated, they will have the lubricant fused into the compound. In that instance, they are better off replaced. Still, try the procedure and if the problem doesn;t come back you saved 20 bucks.
All pads are not alike. I'll bet that brake cleaner meant for Raybestos pads may not brake down some some formulations of brake disc pads. Equally, that stuff may react differently between steel car rotors and aluminum bike rotors.GV27 said:I don't see why you guys are advocating the use of anything other than brake cleaner. It's the only stuff to use. Specifically designed for the job. Yeah you might have something else laying around, but if you work on your own bike/car/motorcycle/go-kart with disc brakes, you really should have a can of brake cleaner laying around.
If you use brake cleaner you won't have to worry about baking it out or doing it on a descent or anything. It'll evaporate completely by the time you get on the bike. Again, it's specifically designed for the job.
C
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