seatpost too long

Discussion in 'Mountain Bikes' started by Tom, Jan 23, 2003.

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  1. Tom

    Tom Guest

    Hi, I'm a short guy with short legs. I have a ritchey wcs mtb seatpost but it is too long on my
    specialized FSR as it will hit the shock if I would put it at my height. I'm wondering if I
    cut(probably get a bike shop to do it) it by 30-50 mm, will it seriouslly damage the bike?

    thanks, tom
     
    #1 Tom, Jan 23, 2003
    Tags:


  2. Michael Dart

    Michael Dart Guest

    "Tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > Hi, I'm a short guy with short legs. I have a ritchey wcs mtb seatpost but it is too long on my
    > specialized FSR as it will hit the shock if I would put it at my height. I'm wondering if I
    > cut(probably get a bike shop to do it) it by 30-50 mm, will it seriouslly damage the bike?
    >
    > thanks, tom
    >

    Go ahead. Start with the 30mm since you can't put it back on! It is fairly normal with interrupted
    seat tubes to have to cut the seatpost to length. The worst that could happen is you have to go out
    and buy a new seatpost. Use a miter box or a hose clamp for a cutting guide.

    Mike
     
    #2 Michael Dart, Jan 23, 2003
  3. Mark Hickey

    Mark Hickey Guest

    Tom <[email protected]> wrote:

    >I'm a short guy with short legs. I have a ritchey wcs mtb seatpost but it is too long on my
    >specialized FSR as it will hit the shock if I would put it at my height. I'm wondering if I
    >cut(probably get a bike shop to do it) it by 30-50 mm, will it seriouslly damage the bike?

    Careful there....

    You'll probably get away with it, but the Ritchey WCS seastpost is very unusual in that its wall
    thicknesses change all the way up the post. If you clamp it further up, you'll be clamping in an
    area not designed for it.

    Doing this will also concentrate the cantilevering forces (at the top of the clamp) at a point
    that's not designed for it.

    The post starts out very thin and non-ovalized (at the bottom) since there's very little stress on
    that. The wall thicknesses bulge as you go up (I'm guessing 60-100mm) and also take on an oval
    internal profile (less material at the sides, more at the front and back) to withstand the clamping
    / bending forces. The walls taper from there up to about 80-100mm from the clamp where they get
    thick to handle the forces from the connection to the seatpost head.

    The WCS is an excellent post (I ride one myownself), and chances are you'll get away with clamping
    it anywhere you want... but you may want to check out the specs on the post to see if you can
    determine exactly WHERE you'll be cutting it.

    Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $695 ti frame
     
    #3 Mark Hickey, Jan 23, 2003
  4. Miles Todd

    Miles Todd Guest

    --------------010005080001090908020408 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
    Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

    Michael Dart wrote:

    >"Tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    >
    >
    >>Hi, I'm a short guy with short legs. I have a ritchey wcs mtb seatpost but it is too long on my
    >>specialized FSR as it will hit the shock if I would put it at my height. I'm wondering if I
    >>cut(probably get a bike shop to do it) it by 30-50 mm, will it seriouslly damage the bike?
    >>
    >>thanks, tom
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >
    >Go ahead. Start with the 30mm since you can't put it back on! It is fairly normal with interrupted
    >seat tubes to have to cut the seatpost to length. The worst that could happen is you have to go out
    >and buy a new seatpost. Use a miter box or a hose clamp for a cutting guide.
    >
    >Mike
    >
    >
    >
    >
    Use a pipe cutter to get a better cut. Use a file afterwards, in any case.

    Miles

    --------------010005080001090908020408 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
    Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

    <!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> <html> <head> <meta
    http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=ISO-8859-1"> <title></title> </head> <body>
    <br> <br> Michael Dart wrote:<br> <blockquote type="cite" cite="[email protected]">
    <pre wrap="">"Tom" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email protected]"><[email protected]></a>
    wrote in message <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
    href="news:[email protected]">news:[email protected]</a>...
    </pre> <blockquote type="cite"> <pre wrap="">Hi, I'm a short guy with short legs. I have a ritchey
    wcs mtb seatpost but it is too long on my specialized FSR as it will hit the shock if I would put it
    at my height. I'm wondering if I cut(probably get a bike shop to do it) it by 30-50 mm, will it
    seriouslly damage the bike?

    thanks, tom

    </pre> </blockquote> <pre wrap=""><!----> Go ahead. Start with the 30mm since you can't put it
    back on! It is fairly normal with interrupted seat tubes to have to cut the seatpost to length.
    The worst that could happen is you have to go out and buy a new seatpost. Use a miter box or a
    hose clamp for a cutting guide.

    Mike

    </pre> </blockquote> Use a pipe cutter to get a better cut. Use a file afterwards, in any
    case.<br> <br> Miles<br> </body> </html>

    --------------010005080001090908020408--
     
    #4 Miles Todd, Jan 23, 2003
  5. G.T.

    G.T. Guest

    miles todd wrote:
    >
    >
    > Michael Dart wrote:
    >
    >> "Tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    >>
    >>
    >>> Hi, I'm a short guy with short legs. I have a ritchey wcs mtb seatpost but it is too long on my
    >>> specialized FSR as it will hit the shock if I would put it at my height. I'm wondering if I
    >>> cut(probably get a bike shop to do it) it by 30-50 mm, will it seriouslly damage the bike?
    >>>
    >>> thanks, tom
    >>>
    >>>
    >>
    >>
    >> Go ahead. Start with the 30mm since you can't put it back on! It is fairly normal with
    >> interrupted seat tubes to have to cut the seatpost to length. The worst that could happen is you
    >> have to go out and buy a new seatpost. Use a miter box or a hose clamp for a cutting guide.
    >>
    >> Mike
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    > Use a pipe cutter to get a better cut. Use a file afterwards, in any case.
    >
    > Miles
    >

    A miter, or a hose clamp, or a pipe cutter for a seatpost?!?!?!? My God, you and Mike are anal.

    Actually, my cut matches the exact angle of the lower end of my interrupted seat tube, which is at a
    31.8945 degree angle. This way I just match up the bottom of the seatpost with the bottom of the
    seat tube, that way I know my seat is at the right height and is pointing perfectly straight ahead.

    Greg
    --
    "Destroy your safe and happy lives before it is too late, the battles we fought were long and hard,
    just not to be consumed by rock n' roll..." - The Mekons
     
    #5 G.T., Jan 23, 2003
  6. Miles Todd

    Miles Todd Guest

    G.T. wrote:

    >> <snip quoted stuff>
    >
    >
    > A miter, or a hose clamp, or a pipe cutter for a seatpost?!?!?!? My God, you and Mike are anal.
    >
    > Actually, my cut matches the exact angle of the lower end of my interrupted seat tube, which is
    > at a 31.8945 degree angle. This way I just match up the bottom of the seatpost with the bottom
    > of the seat tube, that way I know my seat is at the right height and is pointing perfectly
    > straight ahead.
    >
    > Greg

    Now that's funny. By the way, what the heck are you doing posting? You should be riding the
    SJT today!

    Miles
     
    #6 Miles Todd, Jan 23, 2003
  7. G.T.

    G.T. Guest

    miles todd wrote:
    >
    >
    > G.T. wrote:
    >
    >>> <snip quoted stuff>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >> A miter, or a hose clamp, or a pipe cutter for a seatpost?!?!?!? My God, you and Mike are anal.
    >>
    >> Actually, my cut matches the exact angle of the lower end of my interrupted seat tube, which is
    >> at a 31.8945 degree angle. This way I just match up the bottom of the seatpost with the bottom
    >> of the seat tube, that way I know my seat is at the right height and is pointing perfectly
    >> straight ahead.
    >>
    >> Greg
    >
    >
    > Now that's funny. By the way, what the heck are you doing posting? You should be riding the
    > SJT today!
    >

    A little sickly, a lot sickly yesterday, fever kept me from sleeping last night. We postponed to
    next Tuesday.

    Actually, I just clamp my seatpost in a vise at about the right length and using my superhuman
    strength I bend it back and forth until it breaks.

    Greg

    --
    "Destroy your safe and happy lives before it is too late, the battles we fought were long and hard,
    just not to be consumed by rock n' roll..." - The Mekons
     
    #7 G.T., Jan 23, 2003
  8. Jd

    Jd Guest

    "G.T." <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:<[email protected]>...
    > miles todd wrote:
    > >
    > >
    > > G.T. wrote:
    > >
    > >>> <snip quoted stuff>
    > >>
    > >>
    > >>
    > >> A miter, or a hose clamp, or a pipe cutter for a seatpost?!?!?!? My God, you and Mike are anal.
    > >>
    > >> Actually, my cut matches the exact angle of the lower end of my interrupted seat tube, which is
    > >> at a 31.8945 degree angle. This way I just match up the bottom of the seatpost with the bottom
    > >> of the seat tube, that way I know my seat is at the right height and is pointing perfectly
    > >> straight ahead.
    > >>
    > >> Greg
    > >
    > >
    > > Now that's funny. By the way, what the heck are you doing posting? You should be riding the SJT
    > > today!
    > >
    >
    > A little sickly, a lot sickly yesterday, fever kept me from sleeping last night. We postponed to
    > next Tuesday.
    >
    > Actually, I just clamp my seatpost in a vise at about the right length and using my superhuman
    > strength I bend it back and forth until it breaks.

    Superdupersuperman. Un-sick your bad self.

    JD
     
    #8 Jd, Jan 23, 2003
  9. Michael Dart

    Michael Dart Guest

    #9 Michael Dart, Jan 23, 2003
  10. Shaun Rimmer

    Shaun Rimmer Guest

    G.T. <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > Michael Dart wrote:
    > > <[email protected]> wrote in message
    > > news:[email protected]...
    > >
    > >> Pipe cutter works great and clean it up with a file.
    > >>
    > >>MTB 2002
    > >>
    > >
    > >
    > > I would be concerned about the variable wall thickness of a Thomson post using a pipe cutter.
    > >
    >
    > So do what I do and use tin snips.

    Fuss-pot you are. Why not just chew the fecker off with yer teeth like wot I do?

    > You guys are cracking me up.

    Nah - that'll be the hopeless self delusionment you got goin' on Greg.

    Shaun aRe - I said it - you know it's true.
     
    #10 Shaun Rimmer, Jan 23, 2003
  11. G.T.

    G.T. Guest

    Shaun Rimmer wrote:
    > G.T. <[email protected]> wrote in message
    > news:[email protected]...
    >
    >>Michael Dart wrote:
    >>
    >>><[email protected]> wrote in message
    >>>news:[email protected]...
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>> Pipe cutter works great and clean it up with a file.
    >>>>
    >>>>MTB 2002
    >>>>
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>I would be concerned about the variable wall thickness of a Thomson post using a pipe cutter.
    >>>
    >>
    >>So do what I do and use tin snips.
    >
    >
    > Fuss-pot you are. Why not just chew the fecker off with yer teeth like wot I do?
    >
    >
    >>You guys are cracking me up.
    >
    >
    > Nah - that'll be the hopeless self delusionment you got goin' on Greg.
    >
    >
    > Shaun aRe - I said it - you know it's true.
    >

    You are cracking me up. And not in a laughing-with-you-kind-of-way.

    Gerg T.

    --
    "Walking under ladders for a living You know we should be running round in pubs and bars We know
    we'll never grow short And we'll never grow tall" - the Mekons
     
    #11 G.T., Jan 23, 2003
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