Shimano 105 upgrade



Balrog

New Member
Feb 26, 2006
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Ever since I bought my Fuji Roubaix new, I have considered the shifting to be on the rough side. What would be a good upgrade(s) to improve things? I'm thinking the latest Dura Ace deraillurs, but wonder about being able to keep the brake/shifter levers as original. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Balrog said:
Ever since I bought my Fuji Roubaix new, I have considered the shifting to be on the rough side. What would be a good upgrade(s) to improve things? I'm thinking the latest Dura Ace deraillurs, but wonder about being able to keep the brake/shifter levers as original. Any help would be appreciated.

Before you break the bank, make sure everything is adjusted properly. Properly tuned 105 stuff shifts fine, whereas out of synch DA shifts like ****. As you go up the Shimano line past 105 it really is more about weight than performance. While many people swear they can tell the difference between a group, few really can if confronted with properly adjusted components. Personally DA stuff isn't worth the money if you are paying for it. I've got DA 10 and 9 speed stuff and while quite good, isn't noticeably different from my Ultegra of even 105.
 
Balrog said:
Ever since I bought my Fuji Roubaix new, I have considered the shifting to be on the rough side. What would be a good upgrade(s) to improve things? I'm thinking the latest Dura Ace deraillurs, but wonder about being able to keep the brake/shifter levers as original. Any help would be appreciated.

I agree with Capwater. The problem is not the 105, but rather its adjustment.
 
Balrog said:
Ever since I bought my Fuji Roubaix new, I have considered the shifting to be on the rough side. What would be a good upgrade(s) to improve things? I'm thinking the latest Dura Ace deraillurs, but wonder about being able to keep the brake/shifter levers as original. Any help would be appreciated.
Have you been back to your Fuji dealer for the break-in adjustment? The dealer should check and adjust the shifting and brakes, as well as the torque on all key fasteners to make sure everything is safe and secure. It should be a no-cost service at 500 to 1000 miles for the new bike.
 
dhk said:
Have you been back to your Fuji dealer for the break-in adjustment? The dealer should check and adjust the shifting and brakes, as well as the torque on all key fasteners to make sure everything is safe and secure. It should be a no-cost service at 500 to 1000 miles for the new bike.
Yes. The bike is an '98. (or so, memory...too much sun)
That was many miles and checkups ago. Before you ask, it hasn't been in constant service. Say, 5 seasons of a total 8 thousand miles. I'm not complaining about a new problem. What I'm thinking about is what I have seen on the road for other shifter systems. Seems to me that there may be better quieter, smoother systems, but on different makes of bike. From what this thread has yielded, I may not be able to improve on what I'm seeing with the Shimano 105 system.
 
Balrog said:
Yes. The bike is an '98. (or so, memory...too much sun)
That was many miles and checkups ago. Before you ask, it hasn't been in constant service. Say, 5 seasons of a total 8 thousand miles. I'm not complaining about a new problem. What I'm thinking about is what I have seen on the road for other shifter systems. Seems to me that there may be better quieter, smoother systems, but on different makes of bike. From what this thread has yielded, I may not be able to improve on what I'm seeing with the Shimano 105 system.

You fooled us with the phrase "since I bought my Fuji Roubaix new", as it implied that the shifting problem was with a new bike. Whereas I cannot comment on what the problem was at the start, the components could be a bit worn, even at 8K miles. New generation STI shifters are a little bit better than the old. Cassettes and chains are also better and shift/run quieter in my experience.
 
Balrog said:
Ever since I bought my Fuji Roubaix new, I have considered the shifting to be on the rough side. What would be a good upgrade(s) to improve things? I'm thinking the latest Dura Ace deraillurs, but wonder about being able to keep the brake/shifter levers as original. Any help would be appreciated.

Ultegra would be a nice upgrade while DA9 (7700) might be too expensive for what you get.

I am not a mechanic but it seems pretty sure that DA10 (7800) would requires new brake/shifter levers.

If you love your frame, however -- and it seems that you do :D -- then a DA10 upgrade is worth considering.

I'll confess to being a weight weenie so DA10 is a no brainer, but I truly love the performance from the brakes, the uber stiff crank, and the smooth as butter shifting for and aft.
 
Balrog said:
Yes. The bike is an '98. (or so, memory...too much sun)
That was many miles and checkups ago. Before you ask, it hasn't been in constant service. Say, 5 seasons of a total 8 thousand miles.
If the bike still has the original chain and cassette on it, that would be the first thing I would look at. Puting expensive new shifters on an otherwise worn out drive train won't fix the problem.
 
yamaha_mike said:
Ultegra would be a nice upgrade while DA9 (7700) might be too expensive for what you get.

I am not a mechanic but it seems pretty sure that DA10 (7800) would requires new brake/shifter levers.

If you love your frame, however -- and it seems that you do :D -- then a DA10 upgrade is worth considering.

I'll confess to being a weight weenie so DA10 is a no brainer, but I truly love the performance from the brakes, the uber stiff crank, and the smooth as butter shifting for and aft.
I'm assuming your 105 is either 8sp. or 9sp., so if you were to upgrade to DA7800 (10sp.), that would require all new brifters (DA brifters are very expensive), a new 10sp. cassette, and a new 10sp. chain. If you're looking to upgrade your bike, I would first pay attention to getting lighter and stronger wheels and having a mechanic do a simple tune up on your shifting.

It doesn't seem that you use your bike for racing, so I'd imagine the 105 drivetrain will suit you just fine once it's propertly tuned.
 
capwater said:
Before you break the bank, make sure everything is adjusted properly. Properly tuned 105 stuff shifts fine, whereas out of synch DA shifts like ****. As you go up the Shimano line past 105 it really is more about weight than performance. While many people swear they can tell the difference between a group, few really can if confronted with properly adjusted components. Personally DA stuff isn't worth the money if you are paying for it. I've got DA 10 and 9 speed stuff and while quite good, isn't noticeably different from my Ultegra of even 105.

Nice feedback Cap! I've only been cycling about 6 months and tested an Ultegra group vs. 105 recently. I couldn't really tell much difference in shifting. It must be the weight. Having said that I was on a flat road for only about five minutes. There could be a difference when shifting going uphill or downhill, or even shifting while out of the saddle which my 105 doesn't always agree with.
 
Thanks for all the advice! The ride never stops. Its probably just the cables. Gonna have it gone over by my local shop. I could do it, but the Sbrakes are just too complex to get into for a rare workover such as this. Might do it next time if they let me watch. :D

I scored a deal on some Mavic Race wheels while out shopping. Bladed spokes, black powder coat, all aluminum. Complete overkill for a duffer like me, but what can I say? This Roubaix has lasted 12 years w/o a hassle. Now, if I could stop killing tubes on the trainer. (And don't say its the tire, Continential Hometrainer) :eek:
 
I would check cassette availability, for your wheels and frame, first and work from there (8 vs 9 vs 10 speed)_. This may determine which direction you go. I personally can tell the difference between 105 and Ultegra/Dura Ace. Both are very good so you can't go wrong there.
 
artmichalek said:
If the bike still has the original chain and cassette on it, that would be the first thing I would look at. Puting expensive new shifters on an otherwise worn out drive train won't fix the problem.
Or original cables. Depending on your level of riding, I know some people that replace a set of cables every 2 years. I follow their advice, and do mine every 2 years as well, just good maintenance practice IMO.

I had a GT with 105 on it not long ago (trashed it when a lady pulled out in front of me). It shifted find, no noticable difference between that and Ultegra. The only difference would probably be weight. This years 105 is last years Ultegra....