shimano and campy compatibility

[nurul]

Has anyone ever run a dura ace crankset with a campy 10 spd set up. My LBS says that it is not compatible so I am continuing with my FSA SLK cransket for now. I do however run a shimano chain. I know that I have some coleagues who run a record c/set with a dura ace group.

 

[Peter@vecchios]

Has anyone ever run a dura ace crankset with a campy 10 spd set up. My LBS says that it is not compatible so I am continuing with my FSA SLK cransket for now. I do however run a shimano chain. I know that I have some coleagues who run a record c/set with a dura ace group.

Your bike shop needs to try some of these setups and they will find what actually works with what. A DA crank will work just fine with otherwise Campagnolo stuff. Campag left shifters/FDers are very easy to adapt to non Campag cranks. Why do ya suppose it works with an FSA and NOT a DA?

In addition, MOST left shifters when mated to a proper FD(like shimano STI) will work just fine with just about any crank and chain combo.

One of the first Campagnolo 10s setups I installed had a 8s DA crank and FD and that worked just fine.

 

[alfeng]

Has anyone ever run a dura ace crankset with a campy 10 spd set up. My LBS says that it is not compatible so I am continuing with my FSA SLK cransket for now. I do however run a shimano chain. I know that I have some coleagues who run a record c/set with a dura ace group.

You can run almost ANY crank with Campagnolo shifters ... about a third of my cranks are Campy, half are Shimano (e.g., 9-speed DA, Ultegra, XTR!!), and the rest are FSA-or-other.

 

[Dean Thomas]

Im currently running shimano 600 7 spd cranks and chainrings with campy 10 spd chain, campy 10 spd chorus rear derailer, shimano to campy 10 spd conversion cassette and shimano 600 8 spd front derailer all controlled by record 10 spd levers.
you will be suprised what will work if you try.
If your LBS is anything like the closest one to me they proboably told you that just to try to get you to spend more money.
I have a bike shop 2 km's away but choose travel 30 when I need customer service

 

[nurul]

Im currently running shimano 600 7 spd cranks and chainrings with campy 10 spd chain, campy 10 spd chorus rear derailer, shimano to campy 10 spd conversion cassette and shimano 600 8 spd front derailer all controlled by record 10 spd levers.
you will be suprised what will work if you try.
If your LBS is anything like the closest one to me they proboably told you that just to try to get you to spend more money.
I have a bike shop 2 km's away but choose travel 30 when I need customer service

Hi thanks for the ideas there. I even wanted to run dura ace callipers with my record brake levers but the LBS said that it wasn't the done thing. Well I am just not happy with rear braking on chorus calipers as they just lock on descents and in fast situations. ( yes I have changed the blocks and use them with 3 pairs of wheels). I have heard that rear dura ace callipers are far more progressive than campy and have more power. Would having two quick releases, though, be antagonistic???

 

[alfeng]

Hi thanks for the ideas there. I even wanted to run dura ace callipers with my record brake levers but the LBS said that it wasn't the done thing. Well I am just not happy with rear braking on chorus calipers as they just lock on descents and in fast situations. ( yes I have changed the blocks and use them with 3 pairs of wheels). I have heard that rear dura ace callipers are far more progressive than campy and have more power. Would having two quick releases, though, be antagonistic???

You can use almost any brake caliper that suits your fancy ...

Shimano calipers ARE stiffer (a good thing) ... but, heavier (there is more physical material + the weight of the quick release) ...

For your riding/braking style, you apparently need the cheapest/hardest (!) blocks you can get OR you may simply need to back the pads away from the rims so that there is about to 2.5mm of space between the rims & brake pads when you aren't closing them [of course, some people may think of a 2.5mm gap as like having a Grand Canyon like chasm between their pads & rim ... it's what works for me].

One shop in my area sets the brake pads so they are barely more than 1mm away from the rim ... apparently, actuating the brakes involves PULSING them (or, so I have been told by the person who says he loves having his brakes set up that way!?!) -- where's the modulation!?!

The close pad-to-rim setup style is obviously one that I don't follow ... maybe, on my part, it is out of habit ... on my bikes, the brake lever is probably about halfway to the handlebar before the pads are locked onto the rim, and I guess I can squeeze the lever (e.g., "panic" stop) another half-inch as the pads "compress" & cable stretches.

You should only worry about having two quick releases if you are either a weight weenie or slave to fashion (nothing wrong with either).

Having two quick releases can be a good thing, particularly for a CX/touring/whatever bike with fatter tires -- a quick release is a very small amount of added "dead" weight on a bike with Campy levers.

BTW. I have used Shimano dual-pivot calipers with several Campagnolo ERGO shifter setups, but in some cases it was because the components started as a particular Shimano Group ... in others, it was an intentional choice to mate the Shimano calipers with my Campagnolo shifters.

For a several seasons, I was using some "recent" DiaCompe calipers (a copy of late-80s/early-90s Campy calipers, BTW, which also appeared as relabelled Cane Creek single pivot brake calipers about a half-dozen years ago) on my "Winter" bike & they confirmed for me that it is how you set them up rather than how stiff the calipers actually are ... the Diacompe calipers had very good modulation & were certainly stiff enough to bring the bike to a complete stop when I needed to (20+ MPH to ZERO in about 15+ yards when I mis-gauged how long a traffic light was going to stay green ...), so the chasm-like 2.5mm gap was not an impediment to stopping the bike [at the time, the levers were a set of alloy Chorus Ergo (but, all the Campy levers are the "same") ... and, I have subsequently changed that set of Diacompe calipers for some vintage-to-the-bike SunTour calipers for cosmetic reasons].

 

[Dean Thomas]

Yes the mixture of components on my bike is out of necessity due to budget constrains, its a mixture of what I had, what I could find/make work and what I got given from those who will forever be known as my 'claytons sponsors'.
Take a close look at all the different brands, the components all operate and evolved from the same basic design. The only reason I can see for not mixing it up a bit is if you were a purist. Most upgrades to a groupset are cosmetic occasionally a group will have a major change i.e. 9 to 10 spd. In the case of campagnolo this involves a rear derailer, chain, cassette and the disc thingy inside the lever (yes thats a technical term). The rest of the components are basically the same except for weight savings as in the new skeleton brakes. At my level that little bit of weight will make no difference. In my opinion most people upgrade these other components for coffee shop braging rights, but when I do stop at the local caffeine watering hole I generally get asked more questions like " wow how did you get that to work" than my financially stable friends do with the all latest equipment.
Go on give it a go you may be suprised, it may work better than the recomended components and if it does you can then report back and somone else can benefit from yor experience.

 

[Peter@vecchios]

Yes the mixture of components on my bike is out of necessity due to budget constrains, its a mixture of what I had, what I could find/make work and what I got given from those who will forever be known as my 'claytons sponsors'.
Take a close look at all the different brands, the components all operate and evolved from the same basic design. The only reason I can see for not mixing it up a bit is if you were a purist. Most upgrades to a groupset are cosmetic occasionally a group will have a major change i.e. 9 to 10 spd. In the case of campagnolo this involves a rear derailer, chain, cassette and the disc thingy inside the lever (yes thats a technical term). The rest of the components are basically the same except for weight savings as in the new skeleton brakes. At my level that little bit of weight will make no difference. In my opinion most people upgrade these other components for coffee shop braging rights, but when I do stop at the local caffeine watering hole I generally get asked more questions like " wow how did you get that to work" than my financially stable friends do with the all latest equipment.
Go on give it a go you may be suprised, it may work better than the recomended components and if it does you can then report back and somone else can benefit from yor experience.

NOT a rear derailleur if you are converting from a 9s system to 10s with Campagnolo. Altho there is a lot written about the pre and post 2001 thing(10s came out in 2000 for Campag, BTW) in actual practice you can use an old converted RD with converted or new 10s ERGO. One of the very first 10s conversion I did involved a 1996 Athena RD, which worked great with 2000 Record 10s ERGO.

Just for info