Shimano Cantilever question (BR-R550)

[Derk]

Hi,

I ruined a wheel on my old bike today. I take the wheels out of my CX bike,
put them in my old bike and mount a better set of wheels in my CX bike.

Now the problem: both the old wheelset and the new one are CXP33 rims and I
hoped this could be swapped without problems. But no, the brakes have to be
adjusted. Now the problem: whatever I do, the left brake shoe is closer to
the rim than the right brake shoe. As a matter of fact it is too close to
the rim.

-How do I adjust the brake in such a way that both brakeshoes touch the rim
at the same time?
-How do I get the left brakeshoe to be positioned further away from the rim?

I haven't figured out this braking system yet....

Thanks! Derk

 

[Jim Edgar]

Derk at [email protected] wrote on 12/16/04 9:35 AM:
> Now the problem: both the old wheelset and the new one are CXP33 rims and I
> hoped this could be swapped without problems. But no, the brakes have to be
> adjusted. Now the problem: whatever I do, the left brake shoe is closer to
> the rim than the right brake shoe. As a matter of fact it is too close to
> the rim.
>
> -How do I adjust the brake in such a way that both brakeshoes touch the rim
> at the same time?
> -How do I get the left brakeshoe to be positioned further away from the rim?


It would help to know specifically what brakes you have.

There are a couple variables in the equation:

Brake pads with a smooth post that are held by a fixing bolt
- or -
Brake pads which are threaded and are spaced by washers

Some canti's have centering adjustments near the mounting bolt (where the
brake is attached to the canti post on the frame).

Also, one of your wheelsets may not have been centered correctly, or you
might double-check that you have the new one all the way into the dropouts.

Hope that helps,

- Jim

--

CycloFiend

to reply directly, replace the dashes to create the name above

 

[[email protected]]

Jim Edgar wrote:
> >
> > -How do I adjust the brake in such a way that both brakeshoes touch
the rim
> > at the same time?
> > -How do I get the left brakeshoe to be positioned further away from
the rim?
>
>
> It would help to know specifically what brakes you have.
>

Jim- Derk specifically describes the brakes as "BR-R550" cantilevers.
Here's an exploded view:
http://www.shimano-europe.com/cycling/phpimages/product/exp_view/BR-R550.pdf

Derk- use the "spring tension adjusting screw" (#2 in the diagram) to
vary the position of the arms in relation to the rim. From your
description, you should tighten the screw on the left side and loosen
the screw on the right side.

However, before you do this, you should insure that the wheel is
correctly dished and that it is completely seated in the dropouts.
Centering the brake should be one of the last adjustments you make.
Jeff

 

[Peter Cole]

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Jim Edgar wrote:
> > >
> > > -How do I adjust the brake in such a way that both brakeshoes touch
> the rim
> > > at the same time?
> > > -How do I get the left brakeshoe to be positioned further away from
> the rim?
> >
> >
> > It would help to know specifically what brakes you have.
> >
>
> Jim- Derk specifically describes the brakes as "BR-R550" cantilevers.
> Here's an exploded view:
>
http://www.shimano-europe.com/cycling/phpimages/product/exp_view/BR-R550.pdf
>
> Derk- use the "spring tension adjusting screw" (#2 in the diagram) to
> vary the position of the arms in relation to the rim. From your
> description, you should tighten the screw on the left side and loosen
> the screw on the right side.
>
> However, before you do this, you should insure that the wheel is
> correctly dished and that it is completely seated in the dropouts.
> Centering the brake should be one of the last adjustments you make.
> Jeff

I would add only that you should make sure that the end of the spring on
each arm is plugged into the same hole in the frame boss. There are usually
3 holes, for light, medium and strong settings. Also be sure to grease the
studs.

 

[Jim Edgar]

Peter Cole wrote on 12/16/04 4:32 PM:
>>>
>>>
>>> It would help to know specifically what brakes you have.
>>>
>>
>> Jim- Derk specifically describes the brakes as "BR-R550" cantilevers.
>> Here's an exploded view:
>>
> http://www.shimano-europe.com/cycling/phpimages/product/exp_view/BR-R550.pdf
>>

Sorry. My bad - had the subject line truncated in OE and didn't take the
time to read it in my response.

"I've gotta cut down on the caffeine...."

-- Jim

--

CycloFiend

to reply directly, replace the dashes to create the name above

 

[[email protected]]

Jim Edgar wrote:
>
> Sorry. My bad - had the subject line truncated in OE and didn't take
the
> time to read it in my response.
>
> "I've gotta cut down on the caffeine...."
>

You and me both.

JJeeffff......

 

[A Muzi]

Derk wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I ruined a wheel on my old bike today. I take the wheels out of my CX bike,
> put them in my old bike and mount a better set of wheels in my CX bike.
>
> Now the problem: both the old wheelset and the new one are CXP33 rims and I
> hoped this could be swapped without problems. But no, the brakes have to be
> adjusted. Now the problem: whatever I do, the left brake shoe is closer to
> the rim than the right brake shoe. As a matter of fact it is too close to
> the rim.
>
> -How do I adjust the brake in such a way that both brakeshoes touch the rim
> at the same time?
> -How do I get the left brakeshoe to be positioned further away from the rim?
>
> I haven't figured out this braking system yet....
>
The most common centering problem is a wheel not installed
in the center of the frame/fork. Slip your fingers between
the tire and the frame on both sides at once.

The opposite problem is the brakes may have been set up with
the wheel not centered. If that's the case, remember to
check that before doing brake adjustments! The immediate
symptom is one shoe high and one low.

Otherwise for centering, make sure the pads are equal
distance from the arms and then use the fine adjust screw to
balance the spring tension.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[Derk]

[email protected] wrote:

> use the "spring tension adjusting screw" (#2 in the diagram) to
> vary the position of the arms in relation to the rim.
The spring itseelf is missing in the diagram I would say. I solved it by
bending the spring (the long iron "wire") outwards a bit. It was not
possible to completely get it right using the adjusting screw. I had to
bend the spring slightly.

Thank you all very much for the help: you gave me lots of useful tips.
I find it far more difficult to adjust then a normal Shimano caliper brake
for racing bikes.

Greets, Derk

 

[Robin]

Derk wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > use the "spring tension adjusting screw" (#2 in the diagram) to
> > vary the position of the arms in relation to the rim.
> The spring itseelf is missing in the diagram I would say. I solved it
by
> bending the spring (the long iron "wire") outwards a bit. It was not
> possible to completely get it right using the adjusting screw. I had
to
> bend the spring slightly.
>
> Thank you all very much for the help: you gave me lots of useful
tips.
> I find it far more difficult to adjust then a normal Shimano caliper
brake
> for racing bikes.
>

I agree. This is why I recently got rid of my Cannondale touring bike
(and other reasons) and opted for a long-reach caliper design (Gunnar
Sport), so as to be able to use fenders. I admit there are some
applications for which there is no alternative to cantilevers but, like
you said, they are way more complicated.

Robin Hubert

 

[Neil Brooks]

Robin wrote:

> I agree. This is why I recently got rid of my Cannondale touring bike
> (and other reasons) and opted for a long-reach caliper design (Gunnar
> Sport), so as to be able to use fenders. I admit there are some
> applications for which there is no alternative to cantilevers but,
> like you said, they are way more complicated.


Interesting.

Would you tell me a bit more about your dissatisfaction with your Cannondale
tourer? Was yours the T800 or T2000?

I ride a T2000 w/Shimano canti's and Kool-stop pads and have /no/ problems
with braking, or with the bike in general. Well, nothing aside from the
wretched heaviness of the darned thing.

Beautiful bike, that Gunnar, incidentally. They're on my short list for a
potential road bike.

Neil

 

[Robin Hubert]

Hi Neil,
Mine was vintage 1992 T1000. I liked the bike, but it was a bit
beyond my needs in terms of strength, weight, and general spec's. I
never plan on loaded, self-supported touring again and wanted something
a little more suited to my purpose (winter commuter, aka "fender bike",
with light load capacity, off-roading ....). It may eventually
supercede my normal road bike (Waterford RS-22). I can run this bike
with 28mm tires and fenders, or 32mm tires without. The only downside
is the need for long-reach brake calipers. I was lucky enough to score
some Suntour Superbe calipers - I prefer single pivot. I had mine
built with OS2 tubing, and spaced to 135mm for off-road (XT) hubs. The
Sport is several pounds lighter than the T1000. It's also a little
more "sporty" in the handling department. Plus, I finally got
completely away from threaded headsets. Heck, there's even a carbon
fork available (IRD Mosaic 57) that'll handle these spec's with fender
eyelets to boot! I opted for the Gunnar steel fork.
FWIW, I never had a problem with braking (no breaking!) on the
Cannondale. I learned early about cantilever setup (thanks to Avid and
Sheldon Brown), and ran Avid Trialign brakes and standard black and red
Koolstop pads with the original Diacompe aero levers. I could lift the
back wheel with two fingers on the front brake lever.
For an all-around road bike, I recommend the Sport. It is far more
practical. Or get the Roadie custom with longer stays and/or more tire
clearance. The Roadie comes stock with OS2 tubing now. Great value,
IMHO.
BTW, I'm using Google Groups Beta page to reply, and I hope this
isn't top-posting. It won't let me intersperse my replies. My current
news server won't allow posting! Can someone recommend one that will,
as well as a reader (OE doesn't get it).


Robin Hubert

 

[[email protected]]

On 19 Dec 2004 15:05:46 -0800, "Robin Hubert"
<[email protected]> wrote:

[snip]

>BTW, I'm using Google Groups Beta page to reply, and I hope this
>isn't top-posting. It won't let me intersperse my replies. My current
>news server won't allow posting! Can someone recommend one that will,
>as well as a reader (OE doesn't get it).
>
>
> Robin Hubert

Dear Robin,

You can still get the original Google Groups by
country-specific links, like England and India:

http://groups.google.co.uk/groups?hl=en&lr=&group=rec.bicycles.tech

http://groups.google.co.in/groups?hl=en&lr=&group=rec.bicycles.tech

Forte Free Agent works reasonably well:

http://www.forteinc.com/agent/download.php

It allows interspersing remarks.

Carl Fogel

 

[Neil Brooks]

Robin Hubert wrote:
> Hi Neil,
> Mine was vintage 1992 T1000. I liked the bike, but it was a bit
> beyond my needs in terms of strength, weight, and general spec's. I
> never plan on loaded, self-supported touring again and wanted
> something a little more suited to my purpose (winter commuter, aka
> "fender bike", with light load capacity, off-roading ....). It may

Gotcha.

I thought the T series would be the ultimate compromise bike--and it does
facilitate /most/ of my riding with aplomb--but, alas, logging serious
unladen miles, or trying to ride with the big kids on their real road bikes,
is clearly not its strong suit.

> eventually supercede my normal road bike (Waterford RS-22). I can

Nice choice, and yet another brand on my proverbial short list, along with
Steelman, Seven, Hampsten, Griffen, Sycip, and a few even more obscure names
(Thanks, Sheldon, for all of your links!).

> run this bike with 28mm tires and fenders, or 32mm tires without. The
> only downside is the need for long-reach brake calipers. I was lucky
> enough to score some Suntour Superbe calipers - I prefer single
> pivot. I had mine built with OS2 tubing, and spaced to 135mm for
> off-road (XT) hubs. The Sport is several pounds lighter than the
> T1000. It's also a little more "sporty" in the handling department.
> Plus, I finally got completely away from threaded headsets. Heck,
> there's even a carbon fork available (IRD Mosaic 57) that'll handle
> these spec's with fender eyelets to boot! I opted for the Gunnar
> steel fork.
> FWIW, I never had a problem with braking (no breaking!) on the
> Cannondale. I learned early about cantilever setup (thanks to Avid
> and Sheldon Brown), and ran Avid Trialign brakes and standard black
> and red Koolstop pads with the original Diacompe aero levers. I
> could lift the back wheel with two fingers on the front brake lever.

Is that these?? http://snipurl.com/bhbj I've never heard of them. Look
ferociously powerful. Could stop a Peterbilt, no doubt.

That reminds me of an early-on problem I had w/the T2000--a flexy front fork
that shuddered uncontrollably under hard braking. Rather disconcerting on
loaded descents. C'Dale graciously replaced the frame. Now it works like a
charm.

> For an all-around road bike, I recommend the Sport. It is far more
> practical. Or get the Roadie custom with longer stays and/or more
> tire clearance. The Roadie comes stock with OS2 tubing now. Great
> value, IMHO.

When it's time for the new road bike, I want a no-compromise pure road
machine. The T2000 will stay with me. I just can't kill the thing . . .
and . . . with 37's on it, it's pretty capable as a cyclocross bike. What
I'm looking for is something a little botique-ish (support the little guy),
light, but not ridiculously so (I'm doing okay with the conifer green T2k
behemoth), but that fits and feels just perfect. I /do/ like that
Roadie....

> BTW, I'm using Google Groups Beta page to reply, and I hope this
> isn't top-posting. It won't let me intersperse my replies. My
> current news server won't allow posting! Can someone recommend one
> that will, as well as a reader (OE doesn't get it).

I think Carl Fogel has you hooked up on the Newsreader stuff. Thanks for
the response, Robin.

Best,

Neil

 

[Tim McNamara]

"Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> writes:

> BTW, I'm using Google Groups Beta page to reply, and I hope this
> isn't top-posting. It won't let me intersperse my replies. My
> current news server won't allow posting! Can someone recommend one
> that will, as well as a reader (OE doesn't get it).

Have you checked with your ISP about being unable to post? Many ISP
news servers now require authentification to post.

As for newsreader, what platform are you using? A great place to
start looking at newsreaders is www.newsreaders.com

 

[Steven M. Scharf]

[email protected] wrote:

> Dear Robin,
>
> You can still get the original Google Groups by
> country-specific links, like England and India:
>
> http://groups.google.co.uk/groups?hl=en&lr=&group=rec.bicycles.tech
>
> http://groups.google.co.in/groups?hl=en&lr=&group=rec.bicycles.tech

Thanks for pointing that out, the new Google Groups really sucks for
posting. I was trying to figure out how to get back to the original format.

 

[Peter Cole]

"Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi Neil,
> Mine was vintage 1992 T1000. I liked the bike, but it was a bit
> beyond my needs in terms of strength, weight, and general spec's.

> For an all-around road bike, I recommend the Sport. It is far more
> practical. Or get the Roadie custom with longer stays and/or more tire
> clearance. The Roadie comes stock with OS2 tubing now. Great value,
> IMHO.

What's the weight difference between the T1000 frame and the Gunnar frame?

 

[Dan Birchall]

[email protected] (Neil Brooks) wrote:
> I thought the T series would be the ultimate compromise bike--and it does
> facilitate /most/ of my riding with aplomb--but, alas, logging serious
> unladen miles, or trying to ride with the big kids on their real road
> bikes, is clearly not its strong suit.

I like my XR series (aka "Cyclocross") but I don't have even a rack on it
yet; it gets used mostly for the "serious unladen miles" or trying to ride
with the "real road bikes" and (unladen) off-road stuff. Decent compromise
for my purposes (though the original 700x35 tires gave way to 700x30's).

--
Dan Birchall, Hilo HI - http://hilom.multiply.com/ - images, words, technology