Shimano Flight Deck SC-6502



Carol G

New Member
Oct 27, 2005
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I have a Shimano Flight Deck wireless monitor that I tried changing to "Mode 2" so that I could monitor my cadence. Unfortunately, I pressed one of the buttons too long and then my monitor kept showing weird numbers. When I finally got it to show dist/mph, I saw that it no longer showed my gear indicator bar. :confused: :eek: :mad:

Does anybody out there know how I can get my monitor to show my gear indicator bar?
 
Carol G said:
I have a Shimano Flight Deck wireless monitor that I tried changing to "Mode 2" so that I could monitor my cadence. Unfortunately, I pressed one of the buttons too long and then my monitor kept showing weird numbers. When I finally got it to show dist/mph, I saw that it no longer showed my gear indicator bar. :confused: :eek: :mad:

Does anybody out there know how I can get my monitor to show my gear indicator bar?
I'm not sure personally (as I don't have one) but below is the link to the manual for your flight deck model.
It may have some info in there in hte troubleshooting etc etc
Hope this helps
http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/cycle/saus/au/en/technical_service/flight_deck.html
 
Carol G said:
I have a Shimano Flight Deck wireless monitor that I tried changing to "Mode 2" so that I could monitor my cadence. Unfortunately, I pressed one of the buttons too long and then my monitor kept showing weird numbers. When I finally got it to show dist/mph, I saw that it no longer showed my gear indicator bar. :confused: :eek: :mad:

Does anybody out there know how I can get my monitor to show my gear indicator bar?
I haven't experienced the problem you describe with my 6500 computer head ... yet.

Try pressing the A and/or B buttons on the backside of the computer head to "page" the screens forward as if you were re-installing the "hard" data (i.e., wheelsize, chainwheels, cassette) ...

If that doesn't work (and, if the accumulated mileage isn't important to you), then I would just remove-the-battery (actually, at that point, you just have to remove/loosen the battery cover UNLESS the newest computer head that you have finally has some FLASH memory to maintain accumulated data!), and re-install the wheel size & chainwheel/cassette data from scratch.
 
Hi, any of you guys would recommend this unit ? Are the hood buttons handy to use ?

Any kind of feedback please ! thanks
 
youhaditcoming said:
Hi, any of you guys would recommend this unit ? Are the hood buttons handy to use ?

Any kind of feedback please ! thanks
It really depends upon what you are looking for. I am a recreational rider (no racing) and I really like it. The buttons are easy to use and it is easy to read. You don't have to remove your hands from the brake hoods to use it. I also like being able to change gears and not strain my neck trying to see if I am in the correct one:D. If you are into racing, it might not work well for you. The cadence is a virtual cadence, calculated by the computer using the wheel diameter, speed, and gear ratios. Its accuracy suffers it you change wheels or cassettes and forget to load them into the unit. It is not a true cadence. I have coasted down a hill and it still read a cadence well in excess of 100 RPM. It is also suceptable to RFI (radio frequency interference). I got a kick out of showing my friends how I had a max speed of 390 MPH after riding past an electrical substation. This has only happened on three occasions and alway going past the same substation.

In the case of losing information, if you note your mileage prior to taking the battery out, it will allow you to re-enter that number during the set up procedure.
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but it may be your shift levers. Shimano has had some problems with this. I have the computer and when I first put it on I could not get the gear bar to work and it was because the wiring in the lever was not good. I had another shift lever and put it on and it has worked great ever since. I have seen customers that have had theirs for a couple of years and no troubles, then one day the shift bar on the screen stops working. Shimano says to put some spacers under the contact on the lever where the button bolts on and I still had no luck. Inside the manual they use to give these clear spacers to help push the contacts in the lever onto the contacts on the button but sometimes it worked and other times it did not. Can you take it back to your dealer and see if they can send the lever or both of them to shimano? I may be wrong but I have put at least 30 of these on bikes and many have not worked unless I put another shift lever on. I love the computer but when it does not work it sucks.
 
youhaditcoming said:
Hi, any of you guys would recommend this unit ? Are the hood buttons handy to use ?

Any kind of feedback please ! thanks
kdelong said:
...I really like it. The buttons are easy to use and it is easy to read. You don't have to remove your hands from the brake hoods to use it. I also like being able to change gears and not strain my neck trying to see if I am in the correct one:D. If you are into racing, it might not work well for you. The cadence is a virtual cadence, calculated by the computer using the wheel diameter, speed, and gear ratios. Its accuracy suffers it you change wheels or cassettes and forget to load them into the unit. It is not a true cadence. I have coasted down a hill and it still read a cadence well in excess of 100 RPM. It is also suceptable to RFI (radio frequency interference). I got a kick out of showing my friends how I had a max speed of 390 MPH after riding past an electrical substation. This has only happened on three occasions and alway going past the same substation.

In the case of losing information, if you note your mileage prior to taking the battery out, it will allow you to re-enter that number during the set up procedure.
I ditto everything he said and I like the unit for the same reasons he does. I've ridden bikes since the early 70s and used computers for about 15 years. This is my favorite, no doubt. Best feature probably is the buttons on hoods followed by the gear indicator. Yes, gear indicator. I love glancing at the gear indicator even though I rode for 30 years without one. Of course, I almost always know the general position I'm in on the cassette. With the old downtube shifters (which I used until two years ago!), you could tell gear position by the position of the shifters - either by glancing at them or by touch. But brifters don't give you any position feedback. Like most cyclists, I would tend to glance down at the crank and cassette from time to time. I never have to do that now and that's a good thing.

As for the RFI. Of course that only applies if you have a wireless sender on the fork. Mine is wired and I have no problem with that.
 
Hi, ok, i installed this one on my commuting road bike and so far works as advertised. 450 kms and no worries yet.

2 comments: *After 30 minutes it becomes idle and won't restart unless you press one of the setup bottons at the back (which is rather funny since it does have the option for automatic restart, of timer and distance, after stopping for less than 30 minutes). That botton is easy to reach but difficult to press, im also guessing it will wear out at one point in time ?

*In cadence and speed screen, which is the one that i use more often, when you shift the gear numbers are not displayed, only the gear bar indicator. So I need to kind of memorize my gear ratios (3 chainrings x 9 spd)... On all of the other screens you see them for a couple of seconds after shifting.

As for the original poster question, it is certainly a malfunction, probably reseting might solve it, as one poster suggests !