UK and Europe · Public discussion

shimano splined BB - removing cranks

Started by Paul D · · Last activity · 4 posts · 605 views

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UK and Europe
Published
25 January 2005
Last activity
25 January 2005
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Paul D
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  1. First time I've tried to get at a splined BB. The hex bolts on both sides
    turn 3/4 turn counter clockwise then tighten up again. Surely this isn't
    right? Don't want to try brute force in case I'm doing something wrong
    (thinking back to my Trying To Remove A Pedal The Wrong Way experience -
    duh!) but i thought they should come out pretty easy once they were moving.
    Don't know how long since the last time they were removed - I've had the
    bike since May when I bought it 2nd hand, although it's been off the road
    since October, and it's a 2002 bike.

    ????

  2. Paul D said:

    First time I've tried to get at a splined BB. The hex bolts on both sides
    turn 3/4 turn counter clockwise then tighten up again. Surely this isn't
    right? Don't want to try brute force in case I'm doing something wrong

    No, that's normal behavior. I had exactly the same worry as you the
    first time I encountered one of these.

    What's happening is the main hex bolt that tightens and holds the
    crank arms onto the spindle is beginning to bite against the removing
    bolt/doobrey. That's the second circular threaded washer/cap that you
    can see outside the main bolt (the one that is installed with a pin
    spanner). This is how the single key removing method works.

    You can safely apply pressure. It will need a fair bit of torque
    because you need to pull the crank arm off the BB spindle.

    --

    Call me "Bob"

    "More oneness, less categories,
    Open hearts, no strategies"

    Email address is spam trapped, to reply directly remove the beverage.

  3. Call me Bob said:

    What's happening is the main hex bolt that tightens and holds the
    crank arms onto the spindle is beginning to bite against the removing
    bolt/doobrey. That's the second circular threaded washer/cap that you
    can see outside the main bolt (the one that is installed with a pin
    spanner). This is how the single key removing method works.

    You can safely apply pressure. It will need a fair bit of torque
    because you need to pull the crank arm off the BB spindle.

    If you are still slightly nervous, you can download a service .pdf
    from the Shimano website which shows the bolt and cap arrangement, and
    confirms that all is as it should be:

    http://www.shimano-europe.com/cycling/phpimages/productserie/service_pdf/16T0B.pdf

    --

    Call me "Bob"

    "More oneness, less categories,
    Open hearts, no strategies"

    Email address is spam trapped, to reply directly remove the beverage.

  4. No nervousness, always happy to apply brute force - I've a name for
    stripping threads by tightening them too much. Did what you said & the job's
    done. So, ta!

    "Call me Bob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Call me Bob said:

    What's happening is the main hex bolt that tightens and holds the
    crank arms onto the spindle is beginning to bite against the removing
    bolt/doobrey. That's the second circular threaded washer/cap that you
    can see outside the main bolt (the one that is installed with a pin
    spanner). This is how the single key removing method works.

    You can safely apply pressure. It will need a fair bit of torque
    because you need to pull the crank arm off the BB spindle.

    If you are still slightly nervous, you can download a service .pdf
    from the Shimano website which shows the bolt and cap arrangement, and
    confirms that all is as it should be:

    http://www.shimano-europe.com/cycling/phpimages/productserie/service_pdf/16T0B.pdf

    --

    Call me "Bob"

    "More oneness, less categories,
    Open hearts, no strategies"

    Email address is spam trapped, to reply directly remove the beverage.

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