Shimano STI users..Trim shifting..how much do u do?

[ceebozz]

I recently updated my old frame with ultegra drivetrain and STI shifters. My rear spacing was 126mm but a tall frame allowed me to get away with the upgrade without having to coldset or spread the rear stays out to 130mm.
While riding it seems I have to do a fair amount of trim shifting to get the perfect chainline..-no noise. Without this method I end up jumping sprockets to the next size at times.

Could it be the crank verses rear spacing is not quite compatible or is it an adjustment issue with my rear derailleur?

How much trim shifting do you do?
Seems like Ill shift in and trim out to get the silent running. Other than that Its a smooth runner until I may go for a new frame some seasons down the road.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,C - WI rider

 

[boudreaux]

Originally posted by ceebozz
I recently updated my old frame with ultegra drivetrain and STI shifters. My rear spacing was 126mm but a tall frame allowed me to get away with the upgrade without having to coldset or spread the rear stays out to 130mm.
While riding it seems I have to do a fair amount of trim shifting to get the perfect chainline..-no noise. Without this method I end up jumping sprockets to the next size at times.

Could it be the crank verses rear spacing is not quite compatible or is it an adjustment issue with my rear derailleur?

How much trim shifting do you do?
Seems like Ill shift in and trim out to get the silent running. Other than that Its a smooth runner until I may go for a new frame some seasons down the road.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,C - WI rider

RD has nothing to do with it and neither does rear spacing,as it effectively became 130 when you crammed in the wider hub.

 

[ceebozz]

Now how about a constructive reply and an answer to my question? The hub dropped right in by the way 4mm is no sweat.

thanks,C

 

[eric_the_red]

I only have to adjust the trim if I'm using the inside 3 cogs with the large chain ring or the outside 3 with the small ring. Otherwise there is no problems.
BTW I also have an older 126 mm frame upgraded to 9 speed Ultegra STI.

 

[boudreaux]

Originally posted by ceebozz
Now how about a constructive reply and an answer to my question? The hub dropped right in by the way 4mm is no sweat.

thanks,C

I addressed 2 spcific questions. Since I don't have the bike to try or look at, anything else would be a guess. Alot of people don't know how to adjust a FD, so check www.parktool.com

 

[daveornee]

Originally posted by ceebozz
I recently updated my old frame with ultegra drivetrain and STI shifters. My rear spacing was 126mm but a tall frame allowed me to get away with the upgrade without having to coldset or spread the rear stays out to 130mm.
While riding it seems I have to do a fair amount of trim shifting to get the perfect chainline..-no noise. Without this method I end up jumping sprockets to the next size at times.

Could it be the crank verses rear spacing is not quite compatible or is it an adjustment issue with my rear derailleur?

How much trim shifting do you do?
Seems like Ill shift in and trim out to get the silent running. Other than that Its a smooth runner until I may go for a new frame some seasons down the road.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,C - WI rider

What chain are you using?
Is is a double or triple?
What does the chainline look like with a ChainChecker?
Maybe you can drop a 130 OLD wheel in, but is the center of the chainwheels in the center of the cassette cogs? Have you checked the rear drop out alignment?
I know .... lot's of questions and no help, but it is hard to explain without seeing what you are dealing with specifically.. and many of the newer front derailers gain their shifting advantages by having less internal width.... an d thus more trimming when chain isn't running straight... which it only is in the middle-middle on a perfect chain line and a triple.
See Sheldon Brown's site on Frame Spacing, if you haven't already looked, to get an idea of what drop-out alignment is about:

<http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html>

You might also run through the rear hanger alignment routine and check all the rear derailer adjustments:

<http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html>

If it's a Shimano 9 speed cassette, a mating Shimano Chain will make a difference,,.. and there are differences in Shimano chains, so make sure you get a Shimano 9 speed HG chain.

And,,,... as a final thought, you probably ran new cables and housings for your STI, so check through the details of the cable and housing information... as it makes a difference on shifting and accuracy of indexing:

<http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html>

 

[RBS]

<How much trim shifting do you do?
Seems like Ill shift in and trim out to get the silent running. Other than that Its a smooth runner until I may go for a new frame some seasons down the road.>

i upgraded my ride to ultegra double and i don't have to trim at all. i set up everything according to the shimano service instructions on their website. btw, i had a tiagra triple that had some chain rubbing. don't know if it was the tiagra group, the fact that it was triple, or that the chain had some wear. i suspect that the chain wear had a lot to do with it

just a guess with seeing your setup

good luck

bob

 

[ceebozz]

Originally posted by daveornee
What chain are you using?
Is is a double or triple?
What does the chainline look like with a ChainChecker?
Maybe you can drop a 130 OLD wheel in, but is the center of the chainwheels in the center of the cassette cogs? Have you checked the rear drop out alignment?
I know .... lot's of questions and no help, but it is hard to explain without seeing what you are dealing with specifically.. and many of the newer front derailers gain their shifting advantages by having less internal width.... an d thus more trimming when chain isn't running straight... which it only is in the middle-middle on a perfect chain line and a triple.
See Sheldon Brown's site on Frame Spacing, if you haven't already looked, to get an idea of what drop-out alignment is about:

<http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html>

You might also run through the rear hanger alignment routine and check all the rear derailer adjustments:

<http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html>

If it's a Shimano 9 speed cassette, a mating Shimano Chain will make a difference,,.. and there are differences in Shimano chains, so make sure you get a Shimano 9 speed HG chain.

And,,,... as a final thought, you probably ran new cables and housings for your STI, so check through the details of the cable and housing information... as it makes a difference on shifting and accuracy of indexing:

<http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html>

Thanks alot for all your input. I do believe the problem lies in the derailleur hanger angle which I will take a look at..

Much appreciated,C

 

[boudreaux]

Originally posted by ceebozz
Thanks alot for all your input. I do believe the problem lies in the derailleur hanger angle which I will take a look at..

Much appreciated,C

If the hanger is bent or not aligned properly, the rear casette won't shift worth a sheet. I've run 9 speed hubs in lots of 126 frames and never had to realign the hanger.

 

[ceebozz]

Originally posted by daveornee
What chain are you using?
Is is a double or triple?
What does the chainline look like with a ChainChecker?
Maybe you can drop a 130 OLD wheel in, but is the center of the chainwheels in the center of the cassette cogs? Have you checked the rear drop out alignment?
I know .... lot's of questions and no help, but it is hard to explain without seeing what you are dealing with specifically.. and many of the newer front derailers gain their shifting advantages by having less internal width.... an d thus more trimming when chain isn't running straight... which it only is in the middle-middle on a perfect chain line and a triple.
See Sheldon Brown's site on Frame Spacing, if you haven't already looked, to get an idea of what drop-out alignment is about:

<http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html>

You might also run through the rear hanger alignment routine and check all the rear derailer adjustments:

<http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html>

If it's a Shimano 9 speed cassette, a mating Shimano Chain will make a difference,,.. and there are differences in Shimano chains, so make sure you get a Shimano 9 speed HG chain.

And,,,... as a final thought, you probably ran new cables and housings for your STI, so check through the details of the cable and housing information... as it makes a difference on shifting and accuracy of indexing:

<http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html>

I also did a rear D indexing adjustment and adjusted the outer RD limit on the smallest gear by ear instead of eye, after readjusting my cable tension this seems to have taken most if not all of the chain play and skip out of the system.

Thanks again..C