On 8 Aug, 13:25, "Clive George" <
[email protected]> wrote:
> > So why does he need two chain whips to remove it?
>
> Coz he hasn't checked for a freewheel?
>
> Two chain whips will often take the sprockets off a freewheel as well...
The confusion is my fault - I've never dealt with non-cassette gears,
I was going on some half-remembered stuff and making some assumptions.
So far all I've done is taken the back wheel off and seen that there
are no splines for my cassette lockring tool.
The half remembered bit is that for something or other (can't remember
the correct term, so I won't try) instead of a lock ring, something is
held by the smallest sprocket, to get it off you need two chain whips,
one unscrewing the smallest sprocket, and the second holding one of
the other sprockets while you do this (which may, er, be quite
difficult...). As I now understand it, you do this to remove
individual sprockets, which isn't strictly necessary, I can just take
the whole freewheel off, which needs one chain whip + a brand specific
freewheel removal tool, which I don't have. And the freewheel is also
likely to be difficult to get off.
As the wheel isn't that great to start with (only 126mm hub), and I
can't really get the range I need/want with 6 speeds it doesn't seem
worth the effort. (The frame will certainly take 7 speed, but I'm not
sure if the axle will.) So, replacing the wheel is the medium term
plan. Any reason why I shouldn't go to 8 speed - I think the chain is
narrower, does this matter on a tandem?
Rob
Personally if upgrading shifters, hub, mech, I'd do that rather than 8