Shimano Tiagra



JanelS

New Member
Jul 3, 2013
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So, I am looking at a new road bike that has Shimano Tiagra components. I have read a lot of reviews and have heard from a few people that they are not good. I have been told that the extra $$ for the 105's is better. What do you all think?? They are definitely cheaper, but as we all know cheaper isn't always better. All opinions and thoughts are greatly appreciated. I am having to choose between an all carbon fiber frame with the Tiagra's versus one with carbon forks and a light aluminum frame with the 105's. the all carbon fiber bike is 18.2 pounds and the carbon fiber fork with light aluminum is 19.25 pounds. I am have so much trouble deciding.
 
I have a 2013 Trek 1.5 with Tiagra deraillers and shifters. Granted I've only put a couple of good rides on it so far, but so far I find them fine. I used to have a Cervello with 105 on it and just can't seem to notice any difference in smoothness. If it were my money, I would opt for the frame of your choice first, and get the group set that fits your budget. You can always upgrade piecemeal later if you feel the need. I just don't seem to feel the need anytime soon with the Tiagra. When I do step up, it will be right to Ultegra.
 
Whether the bike frames and forks are carbon fiber or some other material is actually pretty irrelevant. Likewise the weight difference is pretty irrelevant. What should be most important to you is choosing the bike that fits best, rides best, handles best, and best satisfies your budget concerns. If that bike is the one with Tiagra on it, then that's the bike you should get. Tiagra is a good group. If the bikes fit, ride, and handle equally well, then going with 105 might be justified.
 
... although in practice, as a beginner you're given a bike with flat pedals, tires inflated to some unknown pressure, saddle height eyeballed by the shop assistant - and let loose on the parking lot, or at best a street with not too much traffic (that you still may not be familiar with). Difficult to really tell much.

A pound weight diff. may not matter much but at least it's something that can be measured.
 
I believe that bike fit and comfort is more important than weight. I recently sold a 17.8 lb. bike and kept my 23lb steel frame bike because it's more comfortable on long rides.
As far as comparing Tiagra and 105; I don't think you will notice any difference when it comes to performance.
Keep in mind that some people are looking at the status of the higher end parts, not the performance. In other words they are paying for the label.
I have raced / owned bikes with Sora, Ultegra, Dura Ace, Tiagra, and 105 components. They all worked very well. The higher end are slightly lighter in weight, sometimes nicer looking, and may not show wear as quickly as the lower end; that is if you ride 200 - 300 miles per week for example.
I ride 2000 - 4000 miles per year so feel confident that I've tested the different components thoroughly during the 30 years I've been riding.
 
So there is a slight performance difference but it is negligible if both are tuned properly. The difference is weight and longevity. Ride it till it breaks and then upgrade if you are so inclined.
 
bartsie said:
... although in practice, as a beginner you're given a bike with flat pedals, tires inflated to some unknown pressure, saddle height eyeballed by the shop assistant - and let loose on the parking lot, or at best a street with not too much traffic (that you still may not be familiar with). Difficult to really tell much.
That's not a test ride. It's also easy enough to get the shop to inflate the tires to a given pressure and adjust fit to certain dimensions. If they won't do that, they're not worth having your money.
A pound weight diff. may not matter much but at least it's something that can be measured.
I'm not sure what that means. Being able to measure something doesn't give that something significance.
 
You might want to check parts availability too...

I recently managed to brake the cable hook and the return spring on the lever of a Shimano 2300 right brifter.

The spring is available for 2 euro but the the lever I only so far in a complete front assembly part of 34 euro. Both in Germany.

The service cost is around 55euro for a complete new brifter, and then I get the left brifter waiting to brake just behind it.

Apparently Campy, who is supposed to be complete rebuildable are even worst then Shimano as far for parts availability here but SRAM apparently is not...
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Maybe you wanna check Campy's Veloce and Centaur (both seem very reliable with different brake - shifter levers and rebuildable) and SRAM's Apex groups too...

Unless you can find all the parts for the Tiagra group too. I think that all these groups (Sh. Tiagra, SRAM Apex, Campy Centaur and Veloce) are more or less in the same cost pool.
 
Get the all carbon bike and upgrade the components later if you want. Not so easy to upgrade the frame later.
 
Brian Franks said:
Get the all carbon bike and upgrade the components later if you want. Not so easy to upgrade the frame later.
Why? What's so special about an all carbon bike? There are a number of things far more important than frame material.
 
Originally Posted by alienator .


Why? What's so special about an all carbon bike? There are a number of things far more important than frame material.
Lighter, less road vibration. Its easier to upgrade the components one at a time if you want as opposed to replacing the frame.
 
Brian Franks said:
Lighter, less road vibration. Its easier to upgrade the components one at a time if you want as opposed to replacing the frame.
Maybe lighter. Maybe less vibration. Maybe not. Aluminum frames, steel frames, ti frames,...: there is no best frame material. Carbon fiber has some very useful properties, but it's only the best frame material in advertisements. Lest you think I'm biased against CF frames, I'm not. My current frame is a Look 595 (a carbon fiber frame), my favorite of all the bikes/frames I've had.
 
Originally Posted by alienator .


That's not a test ride. It's also easy enough to get the shop to inflate the tires to a given pressure and adjust fit to certain dimensions. If they won't do that, they're not worth having your money.
I'm not sure what that means. Being able to measure something doesn't give that something significance.
Buying your n+1-th bike is vastly different when n=0. I was in that situation just over 2 years ago and remember it well.

Someone like you walks into a bike shop wearing your shoes and kit. You know what to look for; you have your existing bike(s) as reference points; you know your preferred position on the bike (and your preferred tire pressures); you have experience with both Shimano and SRAM brifters; you may well be familiar with the area around the LBS and look for rough patches to check comfort etc. You may plan to install your favorite saddle so the one on the bike may not matter.

A beginner walks into a new world. How does an assistant even know how flexible you are to adjust your fit? I am surprised people do end up with a bike at all!

Everything else being equal I'd choose lower weight. Of course, everything else being unknown is not the same as everything else being equal. You do have to have some prior though.