Shoe Fitment



rtnlsltn

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
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A local bike shop has some Specialized BG Pro's (full carbon) on sale for $115. After trying on multiple other shoes, these things take the cake. I had a "wow" feeling as soon as I put my foot into them. They only have sizes 9 and 10 (no 9.5), both fit well. The 10's have more toe room (up and down) and the 9's are a little closer to the end of the shoe when standing. I'd say I have about a 1/4 inch room to the end of the shoe in the 9's (maybe a little less), and a full 1/4 to 1/2 in the 10's. With the 10's, I have the toe strap near the tightest setting, the 9's have more slack. I'm going to return tomorrow to give them a spin on a demo bike. Anything I should look for? I know I don't want to be jamming my toes at the end, but I will only be able to ride a mile or so for the test ride (plus I'm out of shape). I trust the knowledge of the forum slightly more than I trust the kid at the shop selling me the shoes.

As always, thanks! :D
 
Shoes will always stretch a little and in cycling you, ideally, don't want extra room anywhere in the shoe. If the 9s fit wear em.

I like em to be a bit tight when I buy new ones.

But the support in the sole is at least of equal importance as size.
 
rtnlsltn said:
A local bike shop has some Specialized BG Pro's (full carbon) on sale for $115. After trying on multiple other shoes, these things take the cake. I had a "wow" feeling as soon as I put my foot into them. They only have sizes 9 and 10 (no 9.5), both fit well. The 10's have more toe room (up and down) and the 9's are a little closer to the end of the shoe when standing. I'd say I have about a 1/4 inch room to the end of the shoe in the 9's (maybe a little less), and a full 1/4 to 1/2 in the 10's. With the 10's, I have the toe strap near the tightest setting, the 9's have more slack. I'm going to return tomorrow to give them a spin on a demo bike. Anything I should look for? I know I don't want to be jamming my toes at the end, but I will only be able to ride a mile or so for the test ride (plus I'm out of shape). I trust the knowledge of the forum slightly more than I trust the kid at the shop selling me the shoes.
To state what may not yet be obvious to you, different shoe brands fit differently, and a 9.5 in one brand may be a 10 in another.

My 45 SIDI are essentially the same size as my 44 SHIMANO, or vice versa.

Here's the contrary opinion:

Between a pair of CYCLING shoes which are a half-size too small and one that is a half-size too large, 'I' would select the pair that is a half-size too large BECAUSE the uppers on cycling shoes tend to be made with a lot of synthetic materials which tends to be unyielding compared to a pair of athletic shoes made with kangaroo/calf/whatever leather ...

AND, I do NOT think that what applies to fitting a typical athletic shoe applies to fitting a cycling shoe -- your foot won't be sliding forward & back OR laterally on the footbed the way it could in normal athletic activity.

You can ALWAYS add a shoe liner to snug up the fit on a pair of shoes that are a little too large OR wear a thicker pair of socks, but it fairly difficult to add volume to a shoe that is too small.

BTW. Many shoes brands do NOT come in half sizes, yet they actually do have half-size increments. You should learn your EURO sizing (which is NOT consistent, as noted), and use it as a reference.

A recommendation for buying STREET shoes is to try them on at the END OF THE DAY ... THAT is probably good advice for athletic shoes, too ...

PLUS, know the socks you plan to wear when you are riding IN all seasons.
 
Ended up trying on a 42.5 Specialized, the increased width in the toe made the difference, as the 42's were just a tad narrow, and the 43's were just too long. Unfortunately this means I'm back on the hunt for a deal, but at least I know what size and shoe I'm looking for!

Thanks for the help everyone.