Shop to cold set frame in ohio



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Rod Raisanen

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Does anyone know of a shop in central or southern Ohio that can cold set my frame from 126mm to
130mm. I'm upgrading my old steel lugged frame Giant RS940 and am trying to decide weather to cold
set the frame and go 8 or 9 speed or just get the 7 speed Sora Brifters. I've seen Sheldon's site
but I'm not sure if I want to start prying on my bike with a 2X4. Thanks in advance Rod

To reply remove garbage
 
In article <[email protected]>, "Rod Raisanen"
<[email protected]> wrote:

> Does anyone know of a shop in central or southern Ohio that can cold set my frame from 126mm to
> 130mm. I'm upgrading my old steel lugged frame Giant RS940 and am trying to decide weather to cold
> set the frame and go 8 or 9 speed or just get the 7 speed Sora Brifters. I've seen Sheldon's site
> but I'm not sure if I want to start prying on my bike with a 2X4. Thanks in advance Rod
>
> To reply remove garbage

Resetting the frame is not strictly necessary. I run a 126 mm lugged steel frame with 8 cogs on an
updated freehub. I have to manually spread the rear dropouts very slightly every time I load or
unload the wheel. It is not a problem for me or the frame.

--
Ryan Cousineau, [email protected] http://www.sfu.ca/~rcousine President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club
 
You might try Chris's Cycle Shop in Pataskala, OH 43062. Phone is 740-927-4223. www.chriscycle.com
 
"Rod Raisanen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does anyone know of a shop in central or southern Ohio that can cold set my frame from 126mm to
> 130mm. I'm upgrading my old steel lugged frame Giant RS940 and am trying to decide weather to cold
> set the frame and go 8 or 9 speed or just get the 7 speed Sora Brifters. I've seen Sheldon's site
> but I'm not sure if I want to start prying on my bike with a 2X4.

Sheldon's method is really easy. Tweaking out each side 2 mm is hardly worth the effort, but the
effort is tiny.
 
On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 23:30:43 -0800, Ryan Cousineau <[email protected]> wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>, "Rod Raisanen"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know of a shop in central or southern Ohio that can cold set my frame from 126mm to
>> 130mm. I'm upgrading my old steel lugged frame Giant RS940 and am trying to decide weather to
>> cold set the frame and go 8 or 9 speed or just get the 7 speed Sora Brifters. I've seen Sheldon's
>> site but I'm not sure if I want to start prying on my bike with a 2X4. Thanks in advance Rod
>>
>> To reply remove garbage
>
>Resetting the frame is not strictly necessary. I run a 126 mm lugged steel frame with 8 cogs on an
>updated freehub. I have to manually spread the rear dropouts very slightly every time I load or
>unload the wheel. It is not a problem for me or the frame.

Agreed. I regularly do the same thing with a Trek 1400 (bonded aluminum) frame. I've been snapping a
130mm wheel into that frame for a few years now and so far, so good.

BTW, many have long since forgotten that the early Shimano Dura Ace 8-speed hubs came with conical
lock-washers to assist in snapping them into 126mm frames.

I once did the trig to figure out how moving each dropout 2mm affected alignment. I don't have the
figures in front of me but as I recall the angular difference was probably within the tolerances any
frame builder would accept.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3
 
"Peter Cole" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:s85tb.150049$ao4.479732@attbi_s51...
> "Rod Raisanen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Does anyone know of a shop in central or southern Ohio that can cold
set my
> > frame from 126mm to 130mm. I'm upgrading my old steel lugged frame
Giant
> > RS940 and am trying to decide weather to cold set the frame and go 8
or 9
> > speed or just get the 7 speed Sora Brifters. I've seen Sheldon's
site but
> > I'm not sure if I want to start prying on my bike with a 2X4.
>
> Sheldon's method is really easy. Tweaking out each side 2 mm is hardly
worth
> the effort, but the effort is tiny.

Yah, do it yourself. 4mm is not going to snap a bridge, and an old steel frame is not hard to bend.
Run strings to make sure the stays are centered. You may want to take it to a shop afterwards to
make sure the drop-out faces are parallel, however. I have the tools to do that at home but
appreciate that others may not. And like the other posters say, you could do nothing and just wedge
the wheel in. I do not like to do that because I prefer to have my wheels drop out (and go in)
easily for flat repair. -- Jay Beattie.
 
Quoth John Everett:

> I once did the trig to figure out how moving each dropout 2mm affected alignment. I don't have the
> figures in front of me but as I recall the angular difference was probably within the tolerances
> any frame builder would accept.

When I was writing http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html I too did the trigonometry on this:

"...spreading a 120 mm frame to 126 mm only changes the angle by half a degree. Spreading a 126 mm
frame to 130 only changes the angle by one-third of a degree."

Sheldon "High-School Graduate" Brown
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Anyone who cannot cope with mathematics is not fully human. | At best he is a tolerable
| subhuman who has learned to wear | shoes, bathe, and not make messes in the house. | --Robert
| A. Heinlein |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton,
Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts
shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
 
On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 14:04:04 -0500, Sheldon Brown <[email protected]> wrote:

>Quoth John Everett:
>
>> I once did the trig to figure out how moving each dropout 2mm affected alignment. I don't have
>> the figures in front of me but as I recall the angular difference was probably within the
>> tolerances any frame builder would accept.
>
>When I was writing http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html I too did the trigonometry on this:
>
>"...spreading a 120 mm frame to 126 mm only changes the angle by half a degree. Spreading a 126 mm
>frame to 130 only changes the angle by one-third of a degree."

Have you ever done the trigonometry on seat tube angles? I've often thought that the amount of
fore-and-aft adjustment built into most saddle rails would compensate for several degrees difference
in frame geometry. Of course it would have a greater effect on smaller frames.

This has languished on my to-do list for years. ;-)

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3
 
In article <[email protected]>, John Everett
<[email protected]> wrote:

> On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 14:04:04 -0500, Sheldon Brown <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Quoth John Everett:
> >
> >> I once did the trig to figure out how moving each dropout 2mm affected alignment. I don't have
> >> the figures in front of me but as I recall the angular difference was probably within the
> >> tolerances any frame builder would accept.
> >
> >When I was writing http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html I too did the trigonometry on this:
> >
> >"...spreading a 120 mm frame to 126 mm only changes the angle by half a degree. Spreading a 126
> >mm frame to 130 only changes the angle by one-third of a degree."
>
> Have you ever done the trigonometry on seat tube angles? I've often thought that the amount of
> fore-and-aft adjustment built into most saddle rails would compensate for several degrees
> difference in frame geometry. Of course it would have a greater effect on smaller frames.
>
> This has languished on my to-do list for years. ;-)

Mark Hickey beat you to it. Offset seatposts can turn almost any "geometry" into any other, but
without drastic seatpost changes, there are overlapping but distinct seating positions available to
riders of "Road" and "TT" geometries.

--
Ryan Cousineau, [email protected] http://www.sfu.ca/~rcousine President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club
 
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