Show Me A Photo Of Your Road Bike



I'm not busting any specific persons chops on this thread .......

I AM busting on the people who go out and buy a 16 lb. Huffydale when they can barely maintain 8 mph up a hill to begin with.

I have raced steel and aluminum (and ridden many carbon and titanium bikes), the aluminum beat the sh-t out of me on crits, and was terrible for longer road races. Carbon and ti were way to whippy and were horrible for sprinting and climbing. I definitely prefer steel.

I'm 6'-1, and when I was racing weighed 170 lbs (much more now that I haven't been riding for 5 years .... I'll be back down again by next year .. ;) ....). I had my custom built GT Edge Excell tubing steel framed bike down to 19.7 lbs in 1995. And that was a 60 cm frame .......... I had the Edge alumnium that was my sponsor frame, which had the same geometry, but was just dead feeling ..... I was my teams best sprinter AND climber, and was always faster on the chromo bike.

I even raced my Colnago a few times, and that was a 21 pound beast compared to the Edge. Other than geometry being more long road race design, it still rode great.

As a mechanic and salesmen, I'd always down sell people because they wanted the latest/greatest/lightest bike. I'd have them take a spin on the different frame materials and tell them to let me know which rode the most comfortable or fastest ..... Then I'd tell them if they wanted to be faster, just to ride and lose weight on themselves first.

Only when you are at the peak race weight will shaving pounds off the bike make difference.

I definitely don't criticize people for their frame choices ..... as long as they aren't hypocrits. If someone weighs 200+ lbs and buys an aluminum/ti/carbon frame to get the lightest bike to climb with, they are only fooling themselves, and wasting money ......
 
Any statement such as "steel bikes are better" is an oversimplification. This neglects two vital things, frame design and bike fit.

A well designed Al frame that fits you well will be more comfortable than a poorly designed or ill-fitting Carbon/Ti/Steel/Mg/Beryllium etc bike.

Plus there are other features that together are far more important to comfort than frame material. These include (in no particular order) forks, saddle, seat post, wheels, tyres, tyre pressure, & quality of your shorts.
 
Originally posted by Daremo
If someone weighs 200+ lbs and buys an aluminum/ti/carbon frame to get the lightest bike to climb with, they are only fooling themselves, and wasting money ......

i know what you meant by this statement, but you have to be careful how things come out. my bro-in-law is about 210 lbs, but dropped down to that from about 50 lbs. more (and can't really lose much more due to his large bone structure). he rides a litespeed ti bike, which i believe is perfect for his build.
 
Originally posted by patch70
Bianchi XL Carbon with Chorus gruppo

It's people like you who make me feel ashamed about post photos of my bike :D
 
Originally posted by zakeen
king_matt87

Hay you have the new carbon merida. Whats it like? is it light? stiff? where are you from and when did you get it??

I race for the Merida Team we have been using the mag frames 909. but next year we will have the carbon ones!


mine C7 is wicked only got it built up on saturday with Campagnolo record and boy is it good. i was going to get the 909 but they were sold out I'm from tasmania junior under 17.
 
Originally posted by patch70
Bianchi XL Carbon with Chorus gruppo
Nice ride.
Wish i had a few thousand bucks to blow on a bike as it is my $1100 caad 5 almost cost me my head with the wife since i already have a MTB.
 
Here is my current road bike: a 1992? Giant Kronos. It has been upgraded with 105 STI and mavic rims (the rear wheel is stock after the eyelets all falling out over time :/ The bottom bike (A Dodsun Tri-action) was my race bike a few years back...it got creamed in Frankston one day :(
I am thinking of upgrading to a Lear(sport) 8000 this summer.
 
Ok sorry it took me so long but i took a new pic of my complete built up Merida Gross Venus C7 frame built up on Record. With Veloicty Areo head OS rims. And GP- FORCE /ATTACK new conti tyres are so good throught cornos and pritty good in a straight line. my bike is strong and light and didn't cost me $11,000.00 i got it for $4,000.00 new just by shoping smart. all 2004 gear to acpet the groupo 2003 i chose this becasue i love the shiny look. and 2004 ecod is only in Australia now! weight 5.5kg
Cost $4,000.00 AUSD I'm from tassy by the way the $4,000.00 was every thing u see one th bike and a Limar 107 helmet don't know if u can see but i got a Ergo brain with the pack aswell. they are the best computer I had a flight deck on my last bike there good but teh Ergo and so much easier to use and do so much more.
 
so just a hint don't waste your money on the big brands becasue there all good bikes y not save a few bucks by shoping smart. My bike is from all around AUS
 
Originally posted by Daremo
Only when you are at the peak race weight will shaving pounds off the bike make difference.
It's surely possible to drown in information on Alu/Carbon/Steel/Ti/Magnesium/whatever. In sinking for the third time I added some 'custom builders' links to

http://www.lvrc.org/lnfr01.htm

which between them have more than one could ever learn!
 
my bike is a lear 8000.

all the bike i need/can afford at the moment. i couldnt justify spending more than the $AUD1500 it cost me.
 
Finally got a pic of my new ride...it is nice and fast and responsive and accelrates well. I am not too keen on the wellgo pedals (came with bike) as they seem to click when chaning pressures on the pedals (eg taking off from lights).
The seat may also be a bit low (but is the same length from bb to seat top of mountain bike, so maybe I am just going loony.
 
well u ride in different position on road/track/MTB different seat heights too. u should be able to place ur heal on teh pedal and freewheel backwards with out bobing on da saddle THIS IS A GUIDE ONLY as example i ide tarck as a aprinter so my road biek seat is a lot higher than normal were as MTB and made for different style of ridding thus the different set up on a road bike to see if ur seat needs to go back/foward place ur foot in the padal and move crank to 3'o"clock position and ur knee should line up with ur axle which should be teh sentre ball of ur foot and ur eyes noise should be about inline with ur handle bars or near there (GUIDES ONLY)