Show Me A Photo Of Your Road Bike



aldocg said:
Well if you can see my brake levers are very cheap and they are very uncomfortable. Also they're very short so I have to "angle" the entire handlebar in order to reach the levers on the drops.

Ideally if I set the handlebars horizontal at the top it's much more comfortable but it's impossible to reach the brakes while on the drops.

I also used to have my seat forward so I had my knees on the pedal stroke like everyone said but found it more uncomfortable, it's a bit rearwards now.

I think the numbness/pain comes from bad handlebar angle and the hoods/brake levers, but I have to switch them in order to see if it fixes it.
FWIW. This is possibly stating the obvious, but you should unwrap your handlebars ...

Then, rotate them to the most comfortable position when your hands are IN THE DROPS ...

Then, move the brake levers to the position which is most comfortable for you when you are riding on the hoods ...

And then, Rewrap the handlebars.
 
aldocg said:
Well I fit myself after reading a bunch of stuff on the internet. I've done like 20 adjustments all of them on a cycling track to measure my comfort levels and all. I think I've got it pretty good but I am open to suggestions, as I said I ignored the whole knee over pedal stroke thing because it brought me waay to far forward.

Here's a video, I don't have a trainer I'm sorry(old camera also) ...
BTW/FWIW. What comes to mind from the video clip is that you (probably) EITHER need some Toe Clips & straps OR some Clipless Pedals ...
 
alfeng said:
BTW/FWIW. What comes to mind from the video clip is that you (probably) EITHER need some Toe Clips & straps OR some Clipless Pedals ...

I am on it! It's my next purchase(clipless).
 
Douglas racing ti frame with sram force components, dura ace cranks and pedals, zero gravity brakes, FSA seat post and handle bars, ceramic bearings in Velomax hubs and in the bottom bracket.
 
Warning: the following picture contains bicycles that might not be suitable for all riders. Viewer discretion is advised...



So, After my Mountain bike got stolen, I decided to buy my first ever road bike. I found this bike on Craigslist for 80$. The wheels are true, the gears worked fine, and the frame fit me perfectly. Unfortunately, the brakes were ****, and it was painted all black. Even the spokes, and part of the derailleur.
I got the (used) brake levers for free at a bike shop, and put new cork tape on the bars. I also got a cheap computer, and since I didnt want to spend any money on a water bottle holder, I used an old tennis ball container. Yes, very ghetto but it works. Anyway, the bike rides very well, believe it or not, and hopefully in a couple of years I'll buy a newer less pathetic looking bike.
Cheers,
 
JohnsonLBrown said:
Douglas racing ti frame with sram force components, dura ace cranks and pedals, zero gravity brakes, FSA seat post and handle bars, ceramic bearings in Velomax hubs and in the bottom bracket.
Cool bike.
I have some questions.
I've heard that no more than 4cm of spacers are safe on the steerer tube.
Is the frame small for you.
Also what are the two round knob like things, one each on the steerer tube and seat post?
 
spacebar said:
Warning: the following picture contains bicycles that might not be suitable for all riders. Viewer discretion is advised...



So, After my Mountain bike got stolen, I decided to buy my first ever road bike. I found this bike on Craigslist for 80$. The wheels are true, the gears worked fine, and the frame fit me perfectly. Unfortunately, the brakes were ****, and it was painted all black. Even the spokes, and part of the derailleur.
I got the (used) brake levers for free at a bike shop, and put new cork tape on the bars. I also got a cheap computer, and since I didnt want to spend any money on a water bottle holder, I used an old tennis ball container. Yes, very ghetto but it works. Anyway, the bike rides very well, believe it or not, and hopefully in a couple of years I'll buy a newer less pathetic looking bike.
Cheers,
No,Not pathetic,at least you are riding!!! And I just got my 1st new bike,but was riding something close to what you have in terms of used stuff,kinda old but rode well...and truth be told besides looks and a few pounds difference,I was very happy with the bike.Cheers to you sir!
 
Bike4Him said:
I've heard that no more than 4cm of spacers are safe on the steerer tube.
Is the frame small for you.

On that fork, Easton says you can have up to 50 mm of spacers. I've had that fork (and will have it on my next custom build), and it's an excellent fork.

As far frame size goes, I'm gonna guess that the head tube on the frame is a bit short for what the owner's back and flexibility can accommodate. That's not unusual in today's world of threadless forks and stems. In the past, when threaded steerers were all that was about, it was easy to accommodate physical limitations by raising the stem. A lot of folks did that. For some reason, these days folks think a lot of spacers means an ill-fit frame.
 
I haven't heard that about the spacers but I will definitely be looking into it now. I have had the bike since 2006 and not problems. The knob looking things are frogs. little wrap around led lites. front and back
 
This is my scott S50. I have been riding it for a month as of this friday!!!! :D i love it. Since then i have just added a second water cage and i'm getting clip pedals on friday!
 
alienator said:
On that fork, Easton says you can have up to 50 mm of spacers. I've had that fork (and will have it on my next custom build), and it's an excellent fork.

As far frame size goes, I'm gonna guess that the head tube on the frame is a bit short for what the owner's back and flexibility can accommodate. That's not unusual in today's world of threadless forks and stems. In the past, when threaded steerers were all that was about, it was easy to accommodate physical limitations by raising the stem. A lot of folks did that. For some reason, these days folks think a lot of spacers means an ill-fit frame.

On second look the head tube doesn't have much extension above the top tube so it looks like lots of spacers. Still wondering what the round knobs on the seat post and streerer tube are.
 
Bike4Him said:
On second look the head tube doesn't have much extension above the top tube so it looks like lots of spacers. Still wondering what the round knobs on the seat post and streerer tube are.

I think he already mentioned this, but those are Knog Frogs....er....lights by Knog.

knog-frog-led-rear-light.jpg
 
Just bought my first road bike after years of toiling around town on my beater MTB....

2011 Felt Z85. The 'new' Shimano 105 Levers/dérailleurs, 11-28 cassette, FSA compact 50/34 crankset, Mavic CP22 wheels.... Shimano 540 pedals and a reduced price over last year's model :)

Just took it for the first spin this morning, still getting used to the riding position, clicking shoes in, etc... but it's a sweet ride (ok, it's no F1, but it is sweet to me!)