Show Me A Photo Of Your Road Bike



 

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Originally Posted by JoelTGM .

wow that seat is different.

It's a Selle SMP saddle, "....characterized by the original nose shaped like an eagle beak, avoids compression of the genitalia and constitutes a good resting base during the chracteristic push action on the pedals". Its anatomical shape is designed to save the boys.

I'm sure the saddle is quality and does a good job. But it does admittedly look odd. I remember in one of the interviews, Vande Velde from Garmin was quoted as saying that he "wouldn't be caught dead on one....".
 
Yeah, Tech is correct. I really took a risk buying that saddle and it has brought a few snickers but is DOES save the boys and IS comfortable. In hind sight, I should have gotten black :)
 
Originally Posted by MarkVee .

Yeah, Tech is correct. I really took a risk buying that saddle and it has brought a few snickers but is DOES save the boys and IS comfortable. In hind sight, I should have gotten black :)

Thinking of getting one of these myself. Looking for a new one.
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Originally Posted by Easywriter882 .

Heres my baby. 60cm Tommaso carbon frame and fork. Topolino wheels, Orig8 carbon stem, Weinmann chain, Ultegra gruppo, Vittoria Rubino Pro clinchers and Kool stop brakes. Recent addition, Garmin 800. Only trouble is after 3 years on bike, I find that at 6' tall,[COLOR= #0000ff] it is a size and a half too big [/COLOR]and despite my best efforts to make it fit, the lower back pain is the constant reminder. Will be swapping out all components for a 57cm frame that is my correct size. Any offers on this frame will be taken into account. :)
Nice bike ...

I presume that when you say that your current frame is a size-and-half too large that in lieu of a smaller frame that you would be satisfied if your brake levers were about an inch closer to you when you are seated on your current bike ...

If so, then if you are willing to spend between 10-minutes to a half hour (depending on how quickly you work) then you can probably achieve the desired reach by simply making a quick adjustment to your current configuration ...

All you really need to do is to abandon the seemingly popular handlebar installation where the transition to the brake levers is horizontal & the ends of the drops are pointed more toward the top of the rear tire rather than to the the horizon. For example, compare your handlebars with the handlebars one of my bikes:


Notice that by not fixating on a FLAT upper transition to the brake levers that the levers are about an inch (?) further back AND the Drops are closer to the saddle, too.

So, presuming you wrap your handlebar tape from the ends toward the center:

  • [COLOR= #ff0000]measure[/COLOR] the distance from any point on your saddle to the back of the horns on the brake levers ([COLOR= #808080]this is a reference value[/COLOR]) -- I use the center of the rear edge of the saddle as one of the reference points
  • loosen the face plate on the stem & reset/([COLOR= #808080]rotate[/COLOR]) the handlebars to a position similar to those on my bike ...
  • unwrap the tape as far as the brake levers
  • Move the brake levers up and, consequently, back toward the saddle
  • Secure the brake levers so that the back of the horns are almost vertical
  • strap the brake cables down to the bars if you needed to untape them
  • [COLOR= #ff0000]measure[/COLOR] the distance from the previously determined point on the saddle to the back of the horns on the brake levers and/or TEST for "fit"
  • tweak the handlebar & brake lever position, if necessary
  • re-wrap the naked portion of the bars.

DONE!

The effective reach should be about an inch-or-so shorter ... effectively, making your current bike feel as though its top tube is 2+ centimeters shorter than it feels the way you currently have your bike set up.

Your cost is only some time + a few inches of additional masking tape (or, whatever tape that you prefer to use) to strap the brake cables to the handlebars.

BTW. Different handlebars have a different DROP and a different REACH. You could always install a shorter stem, too.

BTW2. If you were to get a smaller frame then the stem will probably be lower UNLESS you get a "comfort" frame which has a longer-than-normal head tube -- the lower stem for a comparable rider's saddle position will probably necessitate a shorter stem than you might think if the object is to decrease the distance between the saddle and the brake levers and/or the Crook/(bend) & Drops, so little may actually be gained by a rider getting a smaller other than having the potential to achieve a more aero riding position.
 
All you really need to do is to abandon the seemingly popular handlebar installation where the transition to the brake levers is horizontal & the ends of the drops are pointed more toward the top of the rear tire rather than to the the horizon. For example, compare your handlebars with the handlebars one of my bikes:


Notice that by not fixating on a FLAT upper transition to the brake levers that the levers are about an inch (?) further back AND the Drops are closer to the saddle, too.
I adjust my bar and lever position for comfort and not sizing and if I configured mine like yours, to change the reach, my wrists would hurt after about 15 minutes of riding. I don't think people are fixated on a flat top, but I do see a lot of photos of new bikes set up that way...looks cool I guess. Wouldn't stem length be a better change to make to fit the bike to the rider? I'm 6' and probably couldn't get a top tube measurement greater than 58cm to fit well.
 
I'm curious. Is that an aluminum mountain bike frame that's been converted to be a road bike? How did you compensate for the 135mm rear? Did you just use a 135mm hub or did you reset the rear to 130mm? How does the relaxed geometry feel on the road? For climbing, sprinting, etc?

Originally Posted by alfeng .


 
Originally Posted by Tech72 .


I'm curious. Is that an aluminum mountain bike frame that's been converted to be a road bike? How did you compensate for the 135mm rear? Did you just use a 135mm hub or did you reset the rear to 130mm? How does the relaxed geometry feel on the road? For climbing, sprinting, etc?

Quote: Originally Posted by alfeng .




Yes, the Mongoose frame is a Hardtail which I set up as a Road frame (you can see the brake bosses for 26" wheels on the rear stays) by installing 700c wheels.

The Mongoose frame is alloy with 135mm rear spacing and weighs about 3 lbs.

  • If the Mongoose had been a steel frame then I would have respaced it to 130mm.

I laced an old NISI (622-13) clincher rim that I had to a 135mm Shimano MTB hub ...

I had to enlarge the forward side of the fender mounting hole to accept the brake caliper's recessed nut.

A Tektro LONG REACH brake caliper is just long enough to reach the rear rim's braking surface & short enough to be used with the Alpha Q fork.

The frame has clearance for a 700x42 tire.

I think an Alpha Q carbon fiber Road fork can accommodate a 700x28, but maybe a 700x25 tire is the maximum size.

I never actually bothered to measure the head tube angle -- but, my original estimate from standing the bike next to another bike whose head tube appeared to be canted at the same angle suggests that with the ROAD fork the Mongoose's head tube angle is about 73º ... I think when the frame is set up as a MTB with a suspension fork that the head tube angle would be a couple of degrees slacker.

  • Matching the picture (which may have some imprecision) of the Mongoose against a picture of an old Raleigh which is beleived to have a 72º head tube angle suggests that the angle is close to 72º ... 72º is actually a great head tube angle for a bike ...

  • But, the head tube in the picture of the Mongoose also matches with the head tube of a different frame (in another picture) which I'm pretty sure has a 73º head tube angle!?!

So, figure the head tube angle is no slacker than 72º and could be as steep as 73º.

With a "touring" fork, the head tube angle would probably be about a half a degree slacker from whatever it is.

Regardless, on the test rides, the handling has been good (hey, I'm NOT racing Crits!) ... and, the longer wheelbase definitely seemed dto take the edge of some rough road surfaces (e.g., alligator pavement) ...

IMO, the stout chain stays & short seat stays should make the rear triangle fairly stiff ... and, in combination with the beefy down tube the rider is the only limitation as far as climbing/sprinting are concerned.

With the Road fork, although I did not bother to measure it, I reckon the BB Drop is ~55mm.

FYI. The crank is the picture is an FSA Gossamer with a 118mm ISIS BB ... the long spindle which is normally used for a Triple crankset was needed to get the crankarms & 52t chainring to clear the chainstay. I subsequently changed to a 118mm OCTALINK BB + crankset. With a steel Hardtail, a Road crank will fit with a regular length Road BB. With the 118mm BB, a Triple crankset could be installed.

As pictured, With the Alpha Q fork & Campagnolo headset, the bike weighs about 19 lbs.

If the shifters had been Shimano + some other parts ([COLOR= #808080]I've currently got a porky Brooks B17 saddle on the bike[/COLOR]) and/or the fork were heavier then the bike would probably be about 20+ lbs.
 
Nicely done Alfeng. An interesting conversion, with good ideas to make incompatible components be compatible. Kudos.
 
Lynskey Level 4 Frame
Reynolds Ouzo Pro Fork
SRAM FORCE Group
Ritchey Pro Stem
Ritchey WCS Bars
Ritchey WCS Seatpost
Fizik Arionne Saddle
Speedplay Pedals (Stainless)
Easton EC90 Aero Wheels
Continental Sprinter Tires
Bontrager Bat Cages
Ceramic Bearings in BB
Ceramic Bearings in RD Jockey Pulleys
Ceramic Bearings in Wheels
 
Hello all. New to the forum. My bike: Wilier Izoard, out of the box with Ultegra, Ritchie, and Fulcrum Racing 5's. Added Look Keo 2 Carbon pedals and carbon cages.