Simple Rack Installation Question

Quoted message said:

Howdy-

Hope this isn't too simple a question, but I have been enjoying my Haro
V1 over the past couple of months, commuting to school and so forth. I
finally decided to invest in a rear rack, so I could carry a trunk bag
and possibly eventually panniers on the bike.

I bought an Ascent City Rack from Nashbar, which of course has no
mounting instructions. I have a couple of questions:

1) First, it seems like the rack is too narrow for the width of the
seat stay down near the hub... do I need to purchase a different /
larger rack? It seems like most are listed as "universal fit" but do I
need one for a mountain bike?

2) There are two threaded holes on the end of the seat stays near the
hub, but on the derailleur side, it seems like the gears come too close
to the threaded hole for it to be functional. There are also two small
threaded holes further up the seat stay, on the interior aspect of the
stays, but the screws supplied don't fit. They seem very small, but I
suppose they might be for rack mounting - although it seems like the
rack would be elevated too high at that point.

Anyway, before I beat my head against the wall any more, is it
something as simple as the rack not fitting the bike, or am I missing
something?

Thanks!
Wesley

I think I have that same rack. Got it for about $13.50 from Nashbar.
Some racks fit some bikes better than other racks fit other bikes. The
tapped holes at the rear dropouts should be in a place where the rack
will not hit the chain or cogs. You can grind the excess portion of
the rack leg off to make it fit. All of the racks I have tried have
needed to be spread quite a bit to clear the rear dropouts. This
sometimes puts the holes at an angle to each other. Working with the
rack and bolts gets them to fit. The racks are not fragile. The
hardware that connects the top of the rack to the seatstays should have
some stainless steel sliders. These can be bent to get the top of the
rack flat, and connect to the seatstays. The bolts for the seatstays
should be the same threading as the ones used for water bottles. I
think the bolts shipped with the rack may be only for connecting the
stainless steel sliders to the top of the rack. And maybe some to fit
the rear dropouts. Most bikes come with bolts for the seatstays (and
water bottle mounts) already in place. Otherwise water would too
easily get into the frame if no rack (or water bottle cage) was
installed. The bolts for the rear dropouts are also a common size.
Metric. M4 or M5 or M6. The hex nut on the bolt fits an 8mm open end
wrench. A local bike shop will have the right size bolts.

Quoted message said:

Howdy-

Hope this isn't too simple a question, but I have been enjoying my Haro
V1 over the past couple of months, commuting to school and so forth. I
finally decided to invest in a rear rack, so I could carry a trunk bag
and possibly eventually panniers on the bike.

I bought an Ascent City Rack from Nashbar, which of course has no
mounting instructions. I have a couple of questions:

This one, I assume:
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?&sku=15206

Quoted message said:

1) First, it seems like the rack is too narrow for the width of the
seat stay down near the hub... do I need to purchase a different /
larger rack? It seems like most are listed as "universal fit" but do I
need one for a mountain bike?

No. Pull the rack apart far enough to go on the outside of the
dropouts. I've done this hundreds of times- it doesn't hurt the rack.

Quoted message said:

2) There are two threaded holes on the end of the seat stays near the
hub, but on the derailleur side, it seems like the gears come too close
to the threaded hole for it to be functional. There are also two small
threaded holes further up the seat stay, on the interior aspect of the
stays, but the screws supplied don't fit. They seem very small, but I
suppose they might be for rack mounting - although it seems like the
rack would be elevated too high at that point.

Bolt the bottom mounts of the rack to the dropouts first. The bolts
shouldn't penetrate too far to the inside of the dropout- if they're
too long, get shorter bolts. Most auto parts and many hardware stores
carry the necessary metric (M5) bolts. Bolt it on loosely, get it
level, then see what you have to do to get the top mount to line up
with your inside-the-seatstays holes. You might have to bend the upper
mount- don't be afraid of it, it won't bite. After everything is bolted
loosely in place, go back and tighten all the bolts properly.

I have racks that have been on 3 different bikes and have required
modification each time. None of them have broken, even after some heavy
usage.

Jeff

Thanks for both of the quick replies... once I had the confidence that
I wasn't screwing something up, I was able to just get the rack
attached in under 10 minutes... seems to be very sturdy and well
alligned once all the bolts were tightened.

This will help my commute a lot. I appreciate it!

Wesley

<[email hidden]> wrote...

Quoted message said:

I bought an Ascent City Rack from Nashbar, which of course has no
mounting instructions. I have a couple of questions:

1) First, it seems like the rack is too narrow for the width of the
seat stay down near the hub... do I need to purchase a different /
larger rack? It seems like most are listed as "universal fit" but do I
need one for a mountain bike?

Can't you just spread the two legs of the rack by hand until they fit over
the seat stays? "Universal fit" frequently seems to mean "it'll fit if you
bend it just right".

Quoted message said:

2) There are two threaded holes on the end of the seat stays near the
hub, but on the derailleur side, it seems like the gears come too close
to the threaded hole for it to be functional. There are also two small
threaded holes further up the seat stay, on the interior aspect of the
stays, but the screws supplied don't fit. They seem very small, but I
suppose they might be for rack mounting - although it seems like the
rack would be elevated too high at that point.

I have the same problem on my touring bike, depending on what kind of
cassette (gears) I install on the rear wheel. I solved it by using a very
short bolt that doesn't protrude far enough in towards the cassette to
interfere with the chain when it's on the smallest cog. If I use a cassette
with an 11 tooth cog in the outermost position I can install the rack and
use a nut to secure the bolt holding the rack to the rear dropout on both
sides. If I use a cassette with a 12 tooth cog in the outermost position I
have to use a short bolt without a nut or the chain will catch on the nut
when I shift gears. Try to install the rack and see if you do indeed run
into clearance problems, if you do then try a shorter bolt, or try using the
bolt without a nut. If you end up using a bolt without a nut in this
application, you might want to use some LocTite to secure the bolt in the
hole, that's what I did.
--
mark

Quoted message said:

Anyway, before I beat my head against the wall any more, is it
something as simple as the rack not fitting the bike, or am I missing
something?

Thanks!
Wesley