Single Speed Question

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Doug Goodwin, Dec 4, 2003.

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  1. Doug Goodwin

    Doug Goodwin Guest

    I've been considering putting together a single speed for riding around town and eventually distance
    training. Since I haven't found any site other than Sheldon's with any basic "starter" info, I'd
    like to know what particular type of frame/fork I should be looking for when I browse thru swap
    meets/ on-line locations.

    Is there one particular type that works best for conversion, as that would probably be the cheapest
    intro. I'd also be using a flip-flop hub and probably 700x25 as it would not be used off pavement.

    TIA
    --
    Doug Goodwin YMMV

    Truth suffers from too much analysis. --Ancient Fremen Saying
     
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  2. Doug Goodwin wrote:

    > I've been considering putting together a single speed for riding around town and eventually
    > distance training. Since I haven't found any site other than Sheldon's with any basic "starter"
    > info, I'd like to know what particular type of frame/fork I should be looking for when I browse
    > thru swap meets/ on-line locations.
    >
    > Is there one particular type that works best for conversion, as that would probably be the
    > cheapest intro. I'd also be using a flip-flop hub and probably 700x25 as it would not be used off
    > pavement.

    You need to look for horizontal rear dropouts and 110mm or 120mm spacing between the rear dropout
    faces. 110mm is track bikes only, but 120mm was used for 5 speed and "compact 6". Lots of early 80s
    bikes are like this.
     
  3. Mike S.

    Mike S. Guest

    "Zog The Undeniable" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > Doug Goodwin wrote:
    >
    > > I've been considering putting together a single speed for riding around town and eventually
    > > distance training. Since I haven't found any site
    other
    > > than Sheldon's with any basic "starter" info, I'd like to know what particular type of
    > > frame/fork I should be looking for when I browse thru swap meets/ on-line locations.
    > >
    > > Is there one particular type that works best for conversion, as that
    would
    > > probably be the cheapest intro. I'd also be using a flip-flop hub and probably 700x25 as it
    > > would not be used off pavement.
    >
    > You need to look for horizontal rear dropouts and 110mm or 120mm spacing between the rear dropout
    > faces. 110mm is track bikes only, but 120mm was used for 5 speed and "compact 6". Lots of early
    > 80s bikes are like this.
    >
    I'm going to refine this answer just a bit. Track bikes are 120mm spacing, old road bikes generally
    start at 126mm and go up.

    If you're planning on running horizontal dropouts, I'd recommend running bolt-on axles. Much more
    secure. Now that I've said that, there's going to be a chorus of "I've never had problems with my
    QR" posts. I know, but you have to admit that bolting an axle on is more secure than a QR.

    If you end up with a road frame, you can always add a few spacers to your hubs to get to 126, or
    pull the frame closed slightly.

    Hint 2: run brakes front and rear. Better to be able to stop than run that stop sign and plow into a
    car... Once you get to the point where you don't think you need it any more, THEN maybe consider
    taking the rear brake off.

    Hint 3: run the same sizes you do on your road bike(s). If you aren't training for track, best to
    keep everything the same. If you are training for the track, run whatcha run on the track.

    All right, y'all can have at me now.

    Mike
     
  4. Josh Gatts

    Josh Gatts Guest

    "Mike S." <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    >
    > "Zog The Undeniable" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > > Doug Goodwin wrote:
    > >
    > > > I've been considering putting together a single speed for riding
    around
    > > > town and eventually distance training. Since I haven't found any site
    > other
    > > > than Sheldon's with any basic "starter" info, I'd like to know what particular type of
    > > > frame/fork I should be looking for when I browse
    thru
    > > > swap meets/ on-line locations.
    > > >

    > Hint 2: run brakes front and rear. Better to be able to stop than run
    that
    > stop sign and plow into a car... Once you get to the point where you
    don't
    > think you need it any more, THEN maybe consider taking the rear brake off.

    Note that he said he wanted a single speed, not fixed. It would be foolish to have fewer than 2
    brakes on a single speed.

    --Josh
     
  5. Brad Upton

    Brad Upton Guest

    Mike S. wrote:

    >"Zog The Undeniable" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    >
    >
    >>Doug Goodwin wrote:
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>>I've been considering putting together a single speed for riding around town and eventually
    >>>distance training. Since I haven't found any site
    >>>
    >>>
    >other
    >
    >
    >>>than Sheldon's with any basic "starter" info, I'd like to know what particular type of frame/fork
    >>>I should be looking for when I browse thru swap meets/ on-line locations.
    >>>
    >>>Is there one particular type that works best for conversion, as that
    >>>
    >>>
    >would
    >
    >
    >>>probably be the cheapest intro. I'd also be using a flip-flop hub and probably 700x25 as it would
    >>>not be used off pavement.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>You need to look for horizontal rear dropouts and 110mm or 120mm spacing between the rear dropout
    >>faces. 110mm is track bikes only, but 120mm was used for 5 speed and "compact 6". Lots of early
    >>80s bikes are like this.
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >I'm going to refine this answer just a bit. Track bikes are 120mm spacing, old road bikes generally
    >start at 126mm and go up. <snip>
    >
    Old road bikes with 5 speed freewheels (and ultra-6 speed spaced freewheels) used 120 mm spacing.
    Normally spaced 6 speed freewheels, and then 7 speeds, used 126 mm spacing. Track bikes used 110 mm.

    Brad Upton Corvallis, OR
     
  6. Kinkycowboy

    Kinkycowboy Guest

    On Thu, 04 Dec 2003 13:28:16 -0800, Brad Upton <[email protected]> wrote:

    >
    >
    >Mike S. wrote:
    >
    >>"Zog The Undeniable" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    >>
    >>
    >>>Doug Goodwin wrote:
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>>I've been considering putting together a single speed for riding around town and eventually
    >>>>distance training. Since I haven't found any site
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>other
    >>
    >>
    >>>>than Sheldon's with any basic "starter" info, I'd like to know what particular type of
    >>>>frame/fork I should be looking for when I browse thru swap meets/ on-line locations.
    >>>>
    >>>>Is there one particular type that works best for conversion, as that
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>would
    >>
    >>
    >>>>probably be the cheapest intro. I'd also be using a flip-flop hub and probably 700x25 as it
    >>>>would not be used off pavement.
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>You need to look for horizontal rear dropouts and 110mm or 120mm spacing between the rear dropout
    >>>faces. 110mm is track bikes only, but 120mm was used for 5 speed and "compact 6". Lots of early
    >>>80s bikes are like this.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>
    >>I'm going to refine this answer just a bit. Track bikes are 120mm spacing, old road bikes
    >>generally start at 126mm and go up. <snip>
    >>
    >Old road bikes with 5 speed freewheels (and ultra-6 speed spaced freewheels) used 120 mm
    >spacing. Normally spaced 6 speed freewheels, and then 7 speeds, used 126 mm spacing. Track bikes
    >used 110 mm.
    >
    >Brad Upton Corvallis, OR
    >

    In the olden days, track bikes were 110. All modern ones are 120. On the other hand, if you want a
    cheap flip flop for two freewheels a BMX hub is gonna be cheaper than a flip flop road/track hub,
    and they're mostly 110mm OLN

    Kinky Cowboy

    *Your milage may vary Batteries not included May contain traces of nuts.
     
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