Singlespeeds



bobbyOCR said:
The local 'trackies' also say track stay-ends. (the rear-opening horizontal ones.)
Are track ends actually required?

Or, is it a me-too (not for you, necessarily) cosmetic issue dictated by the old-timers at the track akin to BMXers possibly dissing anyone showing up in something other than baggies, T-shirt & a skateboarder-type helmet?
 
bobbyOCR said:
The local 'trackies' also say track stay-ends. (the rear-opening horizontal ones.)
The reason for horizontal dropouts is so that you can tension the chain whilst keeping the wheel aligned.
 
EoinC said:
The reason for horizontal dropouts is so that you can tension the chain whilst keeping the wheel aligned.
Yes, I have a single with horizontal dropouts. Track ends are not dropouts They are track ends. Sheldon Brown it (instead of google it).
 
bobbyOCR said:
Yes, I have a single with horizontal dropouts. Track ends are not dropouts They are track ends. Sheldon Brown it (instead of google it).
They were when I grew up and raced track. I guess the World has moved on since then. What is correct nomenclature in the USA (where Sheldon writes from), is not necessarily universal.
 
alfeng said:
What are the qualifications to make a bike legal for track?

Is it BB height?

IF SO, what is the minimum requirement?

Are there any other requirements (presuming BB height is the primary one!)?

BTW. What are THE Keirin specs, anyway? Do they differ from OTHER track specifications?
I think with Keirins and perhaps also for Track (maybe only 'Pro level', Keiren racing is HUGE in Japan) from what I can tell is that you need 'Track Approved parts' i.e. NJS?? certified, most standard road parts are not 'NJS'. I beleive this is so that riders don't try and race on any Old 'Beater' or 'weight weenies' bike that my break due to high forces involves in sprinting etc, causing concequences (pain! ) for other riders.

Of course this may differ from 'local' club races, best to check with with the club/track you intend race with
 
EoinC said:
The reason for horizontal dropouts is so that you can tension the chain whilst keeping the wheel aligned.
I was just trying to get a sense of whether or not the track regs for bikes for non-Keirin track events were official-or-peer-pressure since, as noted by BobbyOCR, there is a technical difference between a horizontal dropout and a rear entry track-end ALTHOUGH you can obviously, properly tension the chain with a frame that has so-called horizontal dropouts.

I can't recall if it was Fausto Coppi, or someone else who rode the 50s era, whose "track" bike had horizontal road dropouts.

If rear entry track ends/"dropouts" are the only obvious visual requirement (beyond the OTHER UCI mandates), I guess ONE temporary solution to getting a "proper" Pista frame would be to find a framebuilder who can braze/weld a set of Campy-or-homemade track "dropouts" onto a given frame ... OR, of course, it could be a DIY shade-tree project -- learn to braze/weld, make the dropouts from some steel stock or cannibalize some kid's BMX bike :eek: ... and, Voila!?!

Rider safety, particular for the OTHERS on the track, is definitely important in non-pursuit events ... but, I've seen crashes for what have to be described as being caused from/by reasons other than a rear wheel sliding akimbo in a dropout ...

I'll try to track down the e-mail address of one velodrome operator that I think I have and see what their take is on the bike configuration (at least for their operation) since I'm obviously much more curious about this matter than I was a week ago! I may not have anything subsequent to report back on this matter ...
 
Finally found one, $400 shipped (gonna be a while before I can get it though)
HEADER.jpg


If you know where I can get Velocity Deep V rims and velocity/formula flip flop hubs (long enough axle to be spaced 130mm) cheaply please tell me. Also goes for cranks.
 
bobbyOCR said:
If I try and take one through customs the price increases by a huge amount. :(
Apparently it's very easy. Know of quite a number of people who has brought frame/whole bike in without hassle. Yet again, YMMV.
 
bobbyOCR said:
Finally found one, $400 shipped (gonna be a while before I can get it though)
HEADER.jpg


If you know where I can get Velocity Deep V rims and velocity/formula flip flop hubs (long enough axle to be spaced 130mm) cheaply please tell me. Also goes for cranks.
ACK!

That's a beautiful frame, but its angles (particularly, the headtube), the derailleur hanger AND the "TT" in the name suggest that it is really a Time Trial frame which could give you less than desirable results on the track ...

I think the BB "drop" may be lower than on most road bikes, so I would think that the BB could be perilously low for use on a track ...

FWIW. Surly makes a solid-axle 120mm flip-flop hub (~$70US) with a that has axles which are long enough to add spacers to:


Surly%20Hub%20New%20Track%20Rr%2032h%20Bolt-on.jpg

http://www.excelsports.com/image/Surly%20Hub%20New%20Track%20Rr%2032h%20Bolt-on.jpg

And, one which is spaced for single-speed MTBs (135mm) that lacks threading for a the lock ring (~$60US):

Surly%20Hub%20New%20Rear%2032%20hole%20Bolt-on.jpg

http://www.excelsports.com/image/Surly%20Hub%20New%20Rear%2032%20hole%20Bolt-on.jpg

It looks (just eyeballing the pics) as though both hubs use the same length axle.

BMX hubs may/(i.e., probably) have axles that are long enough, but the hole count would probably be only 28h.

I think a set of Miche track hubs may be the best buy if your are looking for new hubs ...

FWIW2. Temporarily, I'd be inclined to scrounging for any old [36h for stiffness if you go low flange] ROAD hub(s) and retrofitting a solid axle(s) ... the cost-and-rigamarole of fitting solid axles in a road hub might make the end-cost almost the same as simply buying the Miche (or, equivalent) track hubs if you don't have most of the "parts" on hand.

BTW. The MAVIC CXP14 (622-13) is a fairly deep dish rim which doesn't have a machined brake surface ... but, you'd have to locate a NOS rim.
 
it's a tt track frame, not a regular tt frame hence the horizontal dropouts. it'll be fine for track riding, though probably not the best handling machine for say sprint or keirin racing.

--brett
 
bobbyOCR said:
Why are there no cheap singlespeeds in existence in Australia.....

What's cheap for you? I picked this up about a year ago for just under A$600 in its box. I added new stem, bars levers, fork, seatpost and saddle.

06_Langster.jpg
 
If you can tell me where I can get one of those frames, You would be my best friend. My budget is $400AUD, or $600 if it comes with cranks, seatpost, chain and track cog.
 
::dom:: said:
What's cheap for you? I picked this up about a year ago for just under A$600 in its box. I added new stem, bars levers, fork, seatpost and saddle.

holy f$^k ... thats a sweet ride!

--brett
 
bobbyOCR said:
If you can tell me where I can get one of those frames, You would be my best friend. My budget is $400AUD, or $600 if it comes with cranks, seatpost, chain and track cog.

It's a 06 Specialized Langster. It comes as a complete bike with drop bars, levers and brakes (not that great) and a fork that looks, and feels, like scaffolding tubes. The seat post is a little harsh but the stock saddle wasn't too bad. I got rid of the fork and seatpost FAST and swapped the bars for bullhorns for looks... not everyones taste but I like it. It comes with a flip-flop hub and a 16T freewheel. Mine now has a fixed 18T.

You can pick one up at any Specialized dealer. I got a really good price coz I didn't need it assembled. I'm told this is against Specialized's rules as they like to have their dealer assemble their bikes. You may find they have some 05 or 06 models on special.
 
Although that is great, my LBS is not a specialized dealer, and they will simply not give me an unassembled bike despite the fact I have more wrenching experience then 80% of the mechanics in the workshop.

I have it down to three, basically.

A leader frame -cheap, looks cool, not as harsh as a track frame, not ideal geometry (heard the 07 models were improved)
Cayne Uno - looks OK, good reviews, strong construction, too slack, same head angle as a Leader TT frame
IRO/NYCBikes alloy track style frame, even though it isn't really track geo.
 
bobbyOCR said:
Although that is great, my LBS is not a specialized dealer, and they will simply not give me an unassembled bike despite the fact I have more wrenching experience then 80% of the mechanics in the workshop.
Maybe, you can get ::dom::'s LBS to ship one to you ... hopefully, the shipping would be reasonable enough to make it a good-deal, still.
 
alfeng said:
Maybe, you can get ::dom::'s LBS to ship one to you ... hopefully, the shipping would be reasonable enough to make it a good-deal, still.

:D :D :D I have to travel 5,000 km to my LBS. That's why they let me take it in the box. I've found some shops that will ship interstate in Aus. I had a bike shipped from Brisbane to Sydney for $25, but they did insist on assemly and disassembly first.

Do what I do, email around and see what comes up. There's plenty of frames on eBay and sometimes you can get the seller to pack it properly (cut the corners of a frame box to reduce the volume) and ship US Postal Global Express. Cost arout US$60-70 for postage.
 
::dom:: said:
:D :D :D I have to travel 5,000 km to my LBS. That's why they let me take it in the box. I've found some shops that will ship interstate in Aus. I had a bike shipped from Brisbane to Sydney for $25, but they did insist on assemly and disassembly first.

Do what I do, email around and see what comes up. There's plenty of frames on eBay and sometimes you can get the seller to pack it properly (cut the corners of a frame box to reduce the volume) and ship US Postal Global Express. Cost arout US$60-70 for postage.
I've ordered basically every part from ebay, or the US in general. Just picked up a set of Suzue Promax hubs for $100AUD :eek: