Originally Posted by
jaybeex2 .
... here's the info you asked for:
How long is your frame's current (effective) Top Tube: C-C 57mm
And, how long is your stem? C-C 140mm
What TYPE of handlebar does your bike have? Ritchey Comp
And, how wide is it? Ext 42.5mm
Plus, what is the differential between the top of the saddle & the stem? 105mm difference
Do you feel too cramped OR too stretched out? Feels a bit stretched but ive tried a shorter stem and
suffered the same saddle pain.
Only moderately related, what is the crank arm length that you are using? C-C 170mm
How far back is your saddle set? Currently midway, ive tried fully back and forward too.
Here's a pic of said machine....
Thanks for the info + posting a picture of how your bike is set up ...
HMMmmm. At 6'4", regardless of whether-or-not the bike may be too small for you ...
IF your saddle is uncomfortable, it could be because it is the wrong saddle ...
- there is a HUGE aftermarket for saddles because many people are on a never ending quest for a more comfortable saddle ...
BUT, I will tell you (
and, others may-or-will disagree) that the problem which people have had with their saddles may be attributable to HOW they are sitting on the saddle ...
- with an equestrian saddle, how you sit in the "pocket" does matter
- but, IMO, you don't want to sit in the region of the saddle which would be comparable (i.e., the middle) because the result is akin to straddling a 2x4 equally uncomfortable will be a saddle which has a slightly convex top
[*] in other words, you want your sit bones to be on-or-near the widest part of the saddle which means that ultimately a portion of your butt will appear to be hanging off the back of the saddle
- the KOPS riding position has been the probable source for the widespread mis-fit of riders on bikes which has subsequently resulted in so many people lamenting how uncomfortable their saddle is
Now, sit bones do matter, and a larger individual will more-than-likely need a wider saddle ...
- if the saddle is too narrow, it will be like straddling the fore mentioned 2x4 ...
The "standard"
BROOKS B17 saddle is wider than the typical "plastic" saddle which "Pro" riders typically use ...
- I have stated it before, the width of the rear of a saddle probably can't be too wide other than how it looks the nose on some wide saddles ARE too wide due to an apparent sense of a need for some proportionality on the part of the manufacturer
[*] OTHERWISE, people couldn't sit on chairs, couches, the ground ...
A
Brooks B67 is
really wide ... and, sprung ... weighs a couple of pounds ... its double-railed predecessor (B66) was a popular choice amongst the earliest MTB riders.
FYI. Some once very popular "plastic" saddles which many (
shorter than your height) people found to be comfortable in the past (
if you can find them) are the Selle Italia TURBO (
and, copies ... yes, it was considered to be so comfortable that there were clones), Selle Italia FLITE, San Marco ROLLS, and the original San Marco CONCOR ... all would probably be considered to be obsolete, but you should be able to find them on eBay.
FWIW. IMO, the BIG mistake many people who should know better have apparently made when trying a Brooks-or-equivalent saddle is that they apparently do not account for the greater rail-to-top-of-saddle height and end up thinking that the saddle is uncomfortable because it is subsequently set about 1/4" (?) too high relative to the ideal saddle height for the rider ...
- the short term disadvantage of a "leather" saddle is that it will be pretty stiff when new ... some saddle shaping is required
[*] the long term disadvantage of "leather" saddles is that periodic maintenance is required
Regardless, you may want to cant the saddle's nose on YOUR bike downward by a few degrees ...
Start with the tip of the nose [
really, the portion above the front of the leading edge of the rails BEFORE the top curves downward] about 3mm (?) lower than the rear of the saddle ... maybe, mroe.
- IMO, the only reason to have the nose of the saddle masochistically higher than the rear of the saddle is if the bike is set up for descending ...
- a perfectly level saddle will typically place pressure on parts of your body which you don't want pressure placed on
As far as how your bike is currently set up ...
- you could certainly use 44cm-or-46cm wide handlebars ...
- longer cranks
- set the saddle all the way back BUT lowered by ~1/2" +/-
- eventually, a frame with a longer top tube (really ... possibly, about 2" longer!) but, with possibly a slightly shorter stem (e.g., 120mm)