D
Duncan Smith
Guest
Since getting a fixed wheel, I started using a little back-pedaling
force/resistance on the chain to assist with rear braking. So far so
good, after a while I started using a little more, and rarely touched
the back brake at all.
Then I read about skid stops (flick the back wheel up to get some air
between the road and tyre, back pedal, and when the tyre makes contact
with the ground again, the wheel will skid until you pedal again or the
bike stops).
So with growing confidence I tried a few more skid-stops out on a ride
at lunch today. Despite being a new bike with a Surly track-hub,
track-cog, and lock-ring, I found the lock-ring came undone - as did
the track-cog leaving me spinning like a top and going nowhere fast
until the spanners came out of the saddle-bag.
I thought a left-threaded lock-ring would only serve to tighten the cog
back on to the hub if anything came loose. Should I avoid skid-stops?
Anyone any tips for ensuring the rear parts of the drive-train hold
together?
Many thanks,
Duncan.
force/resistance on the chain to assist with rear braking. So far so
good, after a while I started using a little more, and rarely touched
the back brake at all.
Then I read about skid stops (flick the back wheel up to get some air
between the road and tyre, back pedal, and when the tyre makes contact
with the ground again, the wheel will skid until you pedal again or the
bike stops).
So with growing confidence I tried a few more skid-stops out on a ride
at lunch today. Despite being a new bike with a Surly track-hub,
track-cog, and lock-ring, I found the lock-ring came undone - as did
the track-cog leaving me spinning like a top and going nowhere fast
until the spanners came out of the saddle-bag.
I thought a left-threaded lock-ring would only serve to tighten the cog
back on to the hub if anything came loose. Should I avoid skid-stops?
Anyone any tips for ensuring the rear parts of the drive-train hold
together?
Many thanks,
Duncan.