so how tight are you getting those bolts?



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Cy Galley wrote:
> That would work. Just make sure the bars are positioned where you want them.

I usually try putting some material between the two, say plastic cut from a yogurt carton, which is
thin, to see if it aids friction. Sometimes it works.

--
Ron Hardin [email protected]

On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.
 
Topozone.com has the complete US Geological Survey topo map set for the entire country.

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__o Keep on Ridin' `\ < (*)/(*)
***********************************************
* Al Williams [email protected] *
* San Jose CA Chief Cyclist, DNRC *
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"Michael James Anderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:p[email protected]...
>
> Hello all,
>
> So I'm doing some training that requires me to climb some hills at 3%, 5% and 7%. O.K., so we all
> know how to calculate the grade of a hill IF we know the elevation gain and the distance. Since I
> do not know the elevation gains of my local hills, I was wondering if anyone has a better method
> of finding out what the percent grade is of any hill?
>
> I have heard that race officials get a topo map and calculate each hill, is there a better way? It
> would be great if there was a county map that shows the percent grade of each street; is there
> such a map?
>
> Thanks for the help, Michael
 
[email protected] (ant) wrote:
> I got my first set of aero bars, and slapped them onto my bars this afternoon. The bolts came
> pre-prepped with loctite, I screwed them down hard, and then tried to move the aero bars. With not
> much effort, I could move them up and down. This worried me a lot, so I pulled the bolts out,
> greased them, and cranked them down hard. Then, when I tried again, with a strong shove, the
> aerobars/handlebar rotate within the stem clamp (a coda threaded with a 2-bolt faceplate, i assume
> aluminum).

This just happenened w/me in a stage race this weekend. With much tightening got the bars to stay
put - thought I was about to strip it though. But the course was very bumpy & they loosened up
from the vibrations by mile 5. Kind of felt like a front-suspension road bike so I went to the
drops. By the end they were hanging down, bolts got shaken loose. Turns out one bolt had stripped
out the threads.

This was first time I used these (Deda TT on Deda bars, two bolts on the clamp) but two things
I thought:
* Maybe I didn't have equal tension in the two bolts & it seems that would set it up to loosen up
* If I toss the original bolts & replace them with extra-long ones (that pass through), then add a
backside nut w/nylon insert, it should prevent them from loosening up. Maybe. At least it would
let me just tap the stripped threads w/out going to a larger diameter bolt.

Seems adding a rough surface would help too b/c it would reduce the tension needed to keep
it in place.

Comments?...anyone try something like this?

-Tad
 
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